Over in Nashua, New Hampshire, Saffron Bistro offers a touch of French elegance. The bistro opened on June 7, 2007, realizing the five-year goal of the two 27-year-old co-owners-Benjamin Mercuri and Joe Drift, who is also the chef.
"It has been hard to get our own place started at such a young age, but we were determined," Drift says. "We both already have a lot of experience. I've been working for fourteen years, many of those in fine-dining establishments. We wanted to create a place that was really nice. Elegant dining is something new for Nashua, yet we feel that people are ready and looking for this kind of venue. The city is going places, and we want to ride that wave." The décor conveys an air of refinement in every detail. Deep pile carpet cushions your step in the dining room. The walls are rich with artwork, chandeliers glitter overhead, and soft piano music emanates from the baby grand in the corner. The bar is equally elegant, with a Brazilian hardwood floor, full padded stools, and a bar top of imported marble. Drift describes the restaurant's theme as more American French than classic French, although he uses a lot of French techniques in his cooking and some classic bistro dishes are on the menu. "We wanted to be different, to put a spin on some items," he says. "We didn't want to be locked in to one approach." Among the innovative offerings are the Lobster-Infused Shrimp Cocktail, which is shrimp infused with lobster, cilantro, and vinegar, and served cold. Diners are also fans of the Caesar Salad, which is prepared tableside in the traditional manner. "The chef comes out in his big hat and chops and layers the ingredients right in front of you," Drift says. "People love it." The Pâté de Campagne is prepared in true French fashion. "We use ground organic pork and chicken livers, with marinated baby onions, and serve it with grapes, croutons, and whole grain mustard," Drift says. Among Saffron Bistro's signature dishes are the Saffron Mussels-which are poached in a white wine and saffron broth with fresh chorizo, cherry tomatoes, and cilantro-and their Chilean Sea Bass, which Drift says "flies out the door." "We serve the sea bass with locally grown Peruvian potatoes, with their rich purple color, and fresh asparagus. We bathe the fish in a citron marinade, which is like a lemon sauce, very light and fresh. This is a very healthy dish, not heavy or rich."  The Herb-Encrusted Australian Rack of Lamb is given the French touch, served with chick pea frites, braised savory cabbage, and a pinot rosemary vinaigrette. "The chick pea frites are cooked like polenta on top of the stove, cooled on a sheet pan, then cut like polenta," Drift explains. "They are very big in the south of France. The finished product isn't grainy like polenta, but crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside. With the lamb, I opted for the vinaigrette because it is very light and refreshing, and we just drizzle it over the top. A lot of people use a heavy sauce on lamb, but this lets the flavor of the meat come out."
Desserts are made daily, and Drift avoids having a set menu so he can be as creative as he wants. Previous highlights include a Passion Fruit Crème Brûlée and a super-rich chocolate version; warm chocolate cake; and a trio of fresh sorbets, including blood orange, passion fruit, and pineapple. "We also do desserts for two, which are very popular," Drift notes. "We will do a little tasting of a pot de crème or a key lime torte dipped in white chocolate with fresh berries. It is the perfect finish to a meal." Saffron Bistro is located at 80 Main Street in Nashua. Closed Sunday and Monday, and open for lunch Tuesday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., and for dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. For more information call (603) 883-2100 or visit www.thesaffronbistro.com. Best Kept Secrets: WInter 2007-08
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