It’s early Friday afternoon at Summer Shack, and the crowds are beginning to pour in. The fresh, briny scent of lobster and clams fills the air. If I didn’t know better, I’d swear I was at a clam stand along the Maine coast and not off a busy highway in Cambridge, Massachusetts.

Two hours later I’ve learned several things: Jasper White, fifty-three, has lost weight. Jasper White has changed his life. Jasper White makes a killer-good lobster roll.

Jasper-who, like Madonna, prefers to go by his first name only-was best known as one of the hottest American chefs during the 1980s. Jasper’s, the eponymous restaurant located in Boston’s North End, was the place to eat when foodies came to New England. At the high-end, white-tablecloth restaurant, Jasper made a reputation taking the very freshest New England seafood and transforming it into sophisticated dishes like Oysters and Caviar, Pan-Roasted Lobster with Chervil and Chive Sauce, and Tuna Carpaccio. Today these dishes may sound like the same-old-same-old, but in the early ’80s Jasper’s cuisine was considered revolutionary.

Jasper won one award after another, including a nomination for the James Beard Best Chef of the Nation. “It’s the highest award a chef can receive in this country,” _he boasts. He lost to Daniel Boulud, but the nomination showed Jasper that he was at the top of the game.

Then, unexpectedly, he closed Jasper’s in 1995. Several things contributed to that decision. “The Big Dig was starting in Boston,” the chef explains. “They were coming right through our neighborhood, and the roads were getting dug up, and suppliers couldn’t come in, and guests didn’t know if they could park, and it was a big mess.

“I felt like I needed to leave the restaurant,” he says with a melancholy tone, “but at the same time, I felt like I had a wonderful career going. And then the obvious next question was, ‘What am I going to do with the rest of my life?’”

At the time, Jasper had three small kids (who are now fourteen, sixteen, and eighteen) and a lot of questions about the future.

“The [Boston] Globe interviewed me when I closed the doors to Jasper’s, and I said it was unlikely I would ever come back to fine dining. I was turned off to fine dining; I realized I couldn’t make any money selling the restaurant without me. The whole thing about fine dining is that it depends on the name of the chef. Without the chef, there’s nothing left and no profit to be made selling off your place.

“I was thinking about building a restaurant company. I just couldn’t see myself having this great career and then ending up poor,” Jasper laments. “I thought, maybe for the next step I’d open a big funky family restaurant.”

It took him five years to realize that dream. After consulting for some major food corporations (like Legal Seafood in Boston and the Red Lobster chain) and writing two cookbooks (50 Chowders and Lobster at Home; previously he published the highly regarded Jasper White’s Cooking From New England), he was ready to get back into the restaurant business.

“I spent a lot of time during those five years eating out in restaurants with my family,” Jasper recalls. “I learned more eating out than I did owning my own restaurant. I finally got the perspective that my customers had-the experience of being the customer.

“I finally understood that the most important thing is the people you’re [eating] with. And I was with my family. No one had tables big enough for us to go out with another family. I wanted to find a place to eat that the kids would like and that served really good food. It seems like there’s only one menu for the whole country at these so-called family restaurants.”

The result was Summer Shack, which opened in 2000. It is the “big, funky seafood place” that Jasper dreamed of, where families can come and sit at long picnic tables and choose among chowder, fried clams, and amazing French fries or more sophisticated dishes like the Shack Bouillabaisse, Pan Roasted Lobster, Whole Flounder with Capers and Lemon Sauce, or Grilled Bluefish with an Asian twist. Jasper is the first to admit that Summer Shack is not really a clam shack. It’s too sophisticated and ambitious, but the dedication to serving fresh, local seafood and the focus on simplicity and classics is at the heart of the place.

When you enter Summer Shack, you are hit with the smells of fresh chowder and steamers as well as the sound of people having fun. In the center of the restaurant, Jasper created a Rube Goldberg-like lineup of lobster tanks, steam kettles, and a hoist system to lift the heavy pots. It’s a setup he’s so proud of that he got a patent on the “Lobster Line.” You get a sense of just how important lobster is to Summer Shack when you realize that last year alone the restaurant went through more than 250,000 pounds!

There are now four Summer Shacks. The “mother” restaurant is in Cambridge, off Alewife Brook Parkway, with branches in Boston’s Back Bay, Logan Airport Terminal A, Mohegan Sun Casino, and one opening in the spring of ’08 in Atlantic City, New Jersey. Opening in Atlantic City will be a kind of homecoming for Jasper. He grew up on the Jersey Shore, in a working-class town called Freehold, famous as Bruce Springsteen’s hometown. “Bruce and I went to the same high school,” he recalls. “He was such an inspiration to me because he had this great work ethic. He didn’t hang out on the streets, but he worked on his music all the time. Freehold High has a hall of fame. Bruce is number one, but I’m the most famous chef!”

Being famous and creating an empire is something Jasper has tried to do in stages. “I’ve been really cautious about the growth of Summer Shack,” he says. “I am really interested in letting Summer Shack grow, but I am doing it cautiously and focusing on quality.” Jasper found that getting the high-quality fish he needed for all his restaurants was a lot of work. “For the volume we needed,” he explains, “we needed to buy from fifteen to twenty vendors. We use up to sixty types of seafood a day.” So Jasper bought space on the Boston Fish Pier, became fully licensed, and started his own Summer Shack Fish Department.

“Summer Shack is who I am and what I like. I’ve gone from being a chef to a CEO. There’s no remorse. I can go cook in the kitchen anytime, but I’m happy with this challenge of building a business and trying to make a living. It doesn’t feel bad.”

I ask Jasper if he thinks the days of great chefs owning a single restaurant are gone “Yeah, maybe. I think those days are over,” he says, shaking his head. “There are some great young chefs with one restaurant, but the question is can they sustain it? The economics of the restaurant business has changed so much. As you grow and change, there’s a lot of pressure to have a TV show, a magazine, and a restaurant in every city.”

He doesn’t seem bitter or remorseful talking about the restaurant business, just like a chef who has seen huge changes swing back and forth over the decades. On the brighter side, Jasper acknowledges that there’s much “good stuff” going on with American food these days.

“The marketplace has more variety and quality than ever before,” he says. “Forty years ago, we went to the supermarket and that was it. Now we have places like Whole Foods [Market] with amazing cheeses and pates and high quality seafood. And then there’s all this ethnic cuisine on the scene. It’s a great asset to Boston and New England.”

The worst thing going on in this country, he insists, is the “amount of processed food. Look at gas stations and the junk food sold everywhere. Look at the diabetes problem in this country. It tells the whole story. Actually there are really two stories going on: more good food and more bad food. Our job is to find balance.”

He speaks about health problems with the seriousness of a man who has lost a lot of weight. He is hesitant to tell his story, but suffice it to say, he had a serious health threat. Instead of sitting around, he responded. “I just stopped eating everything in sight, and I began exercising and thinking about my health in a whole new way.”

Other than trying to spread the word about good health, if he has a crusade these days it’s sharing the story of New England food and its “underrated greatness.” His newest project is the Summer Shack Cookbook, sharing many of his best recipes-from classic Maine lobster rolls and chowders to Portuguese-style Mussel Stew, Grilled Sea Scallops with Maple Lemon Glaze over Fennel Slaw, to Grilled Sardines with Brazilian Relish. There also are recipes for blueberry pie and Whoopie Pies.

“I believe in simple food,” says Jasper. “When you’ve got great New England ingredients, there’s not a whole lot you need to do to them. There are just some things-like steamers and lobsters-that just can’t be improved upon.”  

Summer Shack locations:

• 149 Alewife Brook Parkway, Cambridge, Massachusetts, (617) 520-9500
  
• 50 Dalton Street, Boston, Massachusetts, (617) 867-9955
• Logan Airport, 100 Terminal A, Space 15, Boston, Massachusetts, (617) 569-9695
• Mohegan Sun Casino, 1 Mohegan Sun Boulevard, Uncasville, Connecticut, (860) 862-9500.
  

Recipes from Summer Shack Cookbook

Creamy Cape Cod Clam Chowder

Makes 3 quarts; serves 12 as an appetizer or 6-8 as a main course 

On Cape Cod, clam chowder means quahog chowder. Quahogs are large hard-shell clams also known as chowder clams, and they are abundant on the Cape. Quahogs have a wonderful flavor that makes a distinctive chowder. Chowder is a dish of humble origins, and it often relies on “found foods” like fish you catch yourself or clams you dig. Clam chowder is like apple pie in that everyone has his or her concept of what it should be like (usually people like their mother’s version best). In the spirit of true home-style chowder making, this recipe depends on potatoes to lightly thicken the chowder; no other starch is added. I use salt pork, which imparts a mild richness to the chowder; you can substitute bacon for a smokier flavor. This chowder can be served in small cups as a starter or in larger bowls as a main course. Serve toasted common crackers, Pilot crackers, oyster crackers, or Saltines on the side for a little crunch.  For equipment, you will need a 4- to 6-quart pot with a tight-fitting lid and a fine strainer.

10 pounds small quahogs or large cherrystone clams
4 ounces meaty salt pork, rind removed and cut into small (1⁄3 inch) dice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 medium yellow onions (about 12 ounces), cut into 1⁄2-inch dice
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 stalks celery (4 ounces), cut into 1⁄3-inch dice5-6 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves removed and chopped (1 tablespoon)
1 large dried bay leaf
2 pounds Yukon Gold, Maine, PEI, or other all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into 1⁄2- to 3⁄4-inch dice
2 cups heavy cream
ground black pepper
Kosher or sea salt, if needed
1⁄4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

Working Ahead

All chowders improve after they are made, so allow at least an hour from the time the chowder is cooked until it is served. You can make the chowder 1 or 2 days in advance. Reheat it slowly; never let it boil. 

1. Scrub the clams and rinse well. Place them in a large pot, add water, cover, and turn the heat to high. Once you see a little steam escape from the pot, let the clams cook for about 5 minutes. Remove the lid and quickly move the clams around in the pot so they will cook evenly, then cover and cook for 5 minutes more or until the clams open.

2. Pour off the broth and reserve. After it has settled a bit, strain the broth, leaving the bottom 1⁄2 inch of broth (and sediment) in the container. You should have about 4 cups. Remove the clams from the shells, place in a bowl, and refrigerate until cold.

3. Dice the clams into small (1⁄3-1⁄2 inch) pieces. Cover and refrigerate.

4. Rinse and dry the pot and heat over low heat. Add the salt pork and cook until crispy and brown. Add the butter, onions, garlic, celery, thyme, and bay leaf. Sauté, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon for about 10 minutes, until the onions are softened but not browned.

5. Add the potatoes and 4 cups reserved clam broth. The broth should just barely cover the potatoes; if it doesn’t, add more broth or water. Turn the heat to high, cover the pot, and boil vigorously for about 10 minutes, until the potatoes are soft on the outside but still firm in the center. Smash a few potatoes against the side of the pot and stir them into the chowder to lightly thicken it.

6. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the cream and diced clams. Season with black pepper; you may not need salt (the clams usually add enough of their own). If you are serving the chowder within the hour, just let it sit and cure. Otherwise, let cool to room temperature and refrigerate it; cover after it has chilled.

7. When ready to serve, reheat the chowder slowly over medium heat; do not let it boil. Ladle into cups or bowls and sprinkle with the parsley.

Classic Maine Lobster Roll

Makes 4 rolls 

The Maine lobster roll has always been a New England favorite, but now it is becoming favorite in other places as well. I never thought I’d see the day that the New York Times ran an article on the best lobster rolls in the city (NYC), but recently they did just that. It is only a matter of a time before lobster rolls become popular everywhere. The lobster roll, the king of clam shack offerings, is incredibly delicious, with its cool fresh lobster salad and warm crisp, buttery bun. It is humble, but don’t be fooled by the garnish of pickles and potato chips. This dish is like a millionaire driving an old Chevy-understated, but still rich-typical of the New England culture. Making lobster rolls at home is easy, and they are a guaranteed hit with visitors and family alike. You will need to find real New England-style hot-dog buns, which are top-sliced with cut sides so they can be buttered and griddled. If you can’t find them, buy slightly oversized buns and trim the crust from the sides. 

For equipment, you will need a 10-inch skillet, preferably cast iron. If you have paper bun holders, they are quite handy for holding the rolls when you stuff them and for serving. 

4 New England-style hot-dog buns
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened, divided
4 Boston or Bibb lettuce leaves, washed and dried
Lobster Salad (see recipe below)
4 dill pickle spears
Potato chips 

Working Ahead

You can mix the Lobster Salad up to 4 hours ahead. Once the Lobster Salad is ready, this becomes a very easy and fast dish. 

1. Heat a 10-inch skillet over medium heat.

2. Spread the sides of the hot dog buns with the butter, using 1⁄2 tablespoon on each side. Place the buttered buns in the hot pan and toast, without moving, until golden brown on one side, about a minute. Turn and cook the other side, about 1 minute more. Remove from the heat.

3. Open the buns and place in paper bun holders or on small plates. Place a lettuce leave to the side of each bun. Divide the Lobster Salad evenly among the buns. Serve with the pickles and potato chips on the side.

Lobster Salad

Makes 2 cups, enough for 4 or 5 sandwiches or to serve 4 or 5 as a light main course  In New England, tastes for lobster salad are highly individual. Some people like only mayonnaise, other want onions and celery added. Some dice the meat small, others prefer huge chunks. My version uses a special mayonnaise with a small dice of cucumber and scallion. The cucumber is crunchy, and its mild flavor complements the lobster. I have served hundreds of thousands of lobster rolls at Summer Shack using this recipe, and people love it. In addition to providing the filling for the venerable lobster roll, you can use this salad to stuff a ripe tomato or papaya for a delicious cold plate, layer it between slices of almost any kind of bread to make a great sandwich, or roll it up to make a wrap.

If you buy cooked lobster meat from a good-quality market, it can be a fair deal. If the meat looks dull in color or has reddish stains, that means it isn’t very fresh. In that case, cook your own lobster and remove the meat. 

Working Ahead

You can make the salad a few hours before you serve it, but in that case, don’t add the scallions until half an hour before serving. 

1 pound cooked lobster meat or 5 pounds live lobsters
1 small to medium cucumber (4-5 ounces), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1⁄4-inch dice
1⁄2 cup Jasper’s Lobster Mayonnaise (recipe appears in his book) or Hellmann’s mayonnaise
2 or 3 small scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced
Freshly ground black pepper, if neededKosher or sea salt, if needed 

1. If you are using live lobsters, steam them until fully cooked and allow to cool to room temperature. Crack and remove the meat from the claws, knuckles, and tails. Remove any cartilage from the claws and the intestine from the tails.

2. Cut the lobster meat into 1⁄2- to 3⁄4-inch dice. If using whole lobsters, you can pick all the meat from the carcasses and add it to the meat, or freeze the carcasses for soup or stock.

3. Place the diced cucumber in a colander and let stand for at least 5 minutes to drain the excess liquid.

4. Combine the lobster, cucumber, mayonnaise, and scallions in a bowl. Season with a bit of pepper if needed; it is unlikely that salt will be needed. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes before serving.

Blueberry Pie

Serves 8 

Blueberry pie holds a place of honor in the food culture of New England. It is expected at certain events: to hold a clambake or lobster dinner and not serve blueberry pie is abnormal. It is more than a dessert-it is an icon. Serve blueberry pie, and the world is right; serve it warm with melting vanilla ice cream, and it is nirvana. This recipe is for a classic double-crusted pie, with just enough cornstarch to keep the filling from being runny and tons of blueberry flavor. Half the blueberries are cooked in advance to make a thick compote; the rest are folded in, allowing their juices to enrich the filling while retaining some of their whole berry character. 

For equipment, you will need a 3-quart saucepan, a rolling pin, a deep (but not deep-dish) 9-inch glass pie pan, and a pastry brush. If you have a pizza stone, baking the pie on a preheated stone ensures that the bottom crust bakes through and browns, and prevents a soggy bottom. 

4 pints local blueberries, picked over and rinsed, divided
3⁄4 cup water, divided
1 cup sugar, plus 1 tablespoon
1⁄2 cup maple syrup
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest (optional)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1⁄8 teaspoon salt
1⁄3 cup cornstarch
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 prepared repared pie crusts (use your favorite recipe or one of Jasper’s two recipes included in his book.)

Working Ahead

The pie dough can be made in advance and kept, well wrapped, in the refrigerator for a day or two, or up to 1 month in the freezer. To thaw the frozen dough, transfer it to the refrigerator the night before you plan to make the pie. 

1. Combine half the blueberries in a medium saucepan with 1⁄4 cup of the water, 1 cup sugar, maple syrup, lemon zest, if using, lemon juice, and salt. Cook over very low heat, stirring occasionally, until the berries begin to give off juice, about 5 minutes. Turn the heat up to medium and cook for 5 more minutes or until the blueberries break apart.

2. Meanwhile, mix the cornstarch with the remaining 1⁄2 cup cold water until smooth, to make a slurry. Gradually pour the slurry into the hot blueberry mixture, stirring until it thickens. Let the mixture bubble for 30 seconds to cook the cornstarch, then remove the saucepan from the heat and stir in the butter. Add the remaining berries to the mixture and allow it to cool.

3. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and allow it to warm slightly at room temperature for 5 minutes. Lightly flour a work surface and roll out the larger piece of dough to a circle about 12 inches. Place it in a 9-inch glass pie dish and press it over the bottom and up the sides. Roll out the second piece of dough to an 11-inch circle.

4. Turn the filling into the pie shell. Drape the top crust over the filling. Trim the overhang and crimp the edges of the crusts together. Chill the pie while you preheat the oven. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 375ºF. If you are using a pizza stone, allow 30 minutes for it to heat up.

5. Remove the pie from the refrigerator. Brush the top crust lightly with water and sprinkle with the 1 tablespoon sugar. Make about 8 small incisions into the top crust to create steam vents. Bake the pie for about 45 minutes, until the top crust is brown and the filling is bubbling. Remove the pie from the oven and cool completely on a wire rack.

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