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*Photograph by Jack Bingham
Why did you become a chef?
When I was eight, my family moved from New Jersey to Vermont and purchased a country inn. We actually lived at the inn for a few years, and I grew up watching and learning from my father who was the chef/owner. An extremely talented man, he was meticulous in his preparations and presentations. I remember helping him on the line when I was only ten. I began to take a keen interest in cooking at that point—the sounds, sights, and smells of the kitchen appealed to me. While I was attending the University of New Hampshire, I worked in restaurants, and by then, I knew that being a chef was what I wanted to do. I’ve now been at the Sheraton for twenty years, the majority of my career. I worked my way up from line cook to sous-chef to executive chef, which I’ve been for the past twelve years.
Where did you train?
I have no formal culinary school training. I learned a lot through osmosis, by working with some very talented chefs along the way. A successful chef possesses a strong work ethic and a natural gift of taste, so he’s able to pair different foods and flavors. I believe that on-the-job training is a great way to educate yourself in this field. You also have to adapt to ever-changing food trends, and those skills can’t be taught in schools. I studied business at the University of New Hampshire, which is an important background for a chef, especially at the corporate level. It’s also a plus if you’re going to be a chef at a hotel or resort, or own your own restaurant. Ultimately, a chef’s training never ends; there is always a new trend or challenge in this business, and you must stay current to compete.
Who or what inspires you?
The instant gratification that comes from serving a guest a meal that they truly enjoy. Ultimately, this is why I do this—to see the smiles when someone loves your food is an awesome feeling. What’s most rewarding is when we do a wedding, and I see the bride and groom posing on the staircase for pictures. I realize that I’m responsible for preparing the most important and memorable meal of their lives. To have that event go off
as planned and hear raves is what it’s all about.
How is being a hotel chef different from being a restaurant chef?
The administrative aspect is much greater, because you are working for a large corporation. There is a lot more accountability. You need strong computer skills as well as cooking skills. There are constant conferences and special events, as well as running the restaurants. In this role, you must be able to multitask and prioritize your time. You’re a chef and an administrator. On a typical weekend, we may have four weddings per day of anywhere from 120 to 200 people each, plus a full dinner service.
What was your most embarrassing moment?
In my early career as a banquet chef, we had an evening wedding for 150 people. There was a buffet that I understood had only two items on it—actually, there were three. I had put the items for the first two entrées in the oven when the server asked where the veal was. I had completely overlooked the Veal Forestiere. This had never happened before. I immediately grabbed forty pounds of veal tips and sautéed them as fast as I could. Tragedy averted, I had the third entrée prepared within fifteen minutes—just as the buffet line started to move.
Where do you like to eat?
Unfortunately, I don’t get out to dine very often, so I can’t say that I have a favorite eatery in the area. I’m a new dad, a chef, and a landlord, so those things pretty much monopolize my time. I enjoy cooking at home, but when I do get a day off, I like Japanese or Chinese food.
Salmon en Croute with Herb Goat Cheese, Leeks, and Pignolis
Serves 4
2 pound salmon filet, skinned
12 x 18-inch puff pastry (available frozen in the grocery store)
5 ounces herb goat cheese
1 cup toasted pine nuts
1 cup leeks, white part only, sliced and rinsed
1⁄2 cup sun-dried tomatoes, julienned (cut into thin, matchstick strips)
1 egg, lightly beaten
Salt and pepper to taste
1. Preheat oven to 400° F.
2. Lay pastry sheet on floured surface. Crumble goat cheese lengthwise on pastry sheet in center.
3. Place leeks and sun-dried tomatoes over cheese and season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with toasted pine nuts. Lay salmon over cheese and vegetables lengthwise.
4. Fold ends of pastry sheet inward about 2 inches. Fold top and bottom of sheet together and overlap. Using a wide spatula on each end, carefully flip salmon onto other side and place on parchment paper–lined baking sheet.
5. Brush the pastry with egg wash and bake in 400° oven for 45 minutes or until golden. Slice on an angle and serve immediately.
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