Taste talks to area chefs about how they’re coping in a different economy.

Scott Ouelette, Chef/Owner of two popular Lakes Region eateries, O’s Steak & Seafood in Lakeport, New Hampshire, and Canoe Restaurant & Tavern in Center Harbor. To learn more visit www.osteakandseafood.com or www.eatatcanoe.com.
Photograph by Linda S. Murphy/Lasting Moments Photography.

Evan Mallet, Chef/Owner the Black Trumpet Bistro in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. This elegant restaurant is known for its distinctive cuisine, and distinguished history as the site of two of Portsmouth’s leading restaurants—the Blue Strawbery and Lindbergh’s Crossing. Black Trumpet Bistro features cuisine with influences from Spain, North Africa, the Mediterranean and Mexico. Visit www.blacktrumpetbistro.com. Photograph by Jasmine Inglesmith.

Matt Lee, Chef at the Granite Restaurant, located in the historic Centennial Hotel in downtown Concord, New Hampshire. Granite offers New American Cuisine and showcases Lee’s interest in Caribbean, Pacific Rim and Latino cuisine. Visit www.granite.com.

How are restaurants being affected by the economic downturn?

Scott: People are still going out to eat. I have the same amount of people, if not more, coming through the door, but they are spending less money. They are cutting back on appetizers, high end bottles of wine, and dessert. As a result, I’ve started offering more mid-range wines; they’re good quality, and this way, people can still afford to have something nice
with dinner.

Evan: I have to disagree. I think more restaurants are being affected than not. Of those offering a premium meal that people will splurge for, I think there’s maybe a handful that are doing okay. We’re fortunate that we are one of those places. We offer a unique experience, and the restaurant also has a long history of being the place to go for special occasions. Even in times of hardship, people still come here to celebrate the good things. People frequently tell us stories of how they met here, or got engaged here, or some other special memory. Those bonds run deep and they count on us to be here and offer that same memorable experience. Our commitment to stay true to what people expect keeps us going.

Matt: I’m with Evan; I think most restaurants are definitely being affected. We’re coming into our third year and we should easily be making our budget—we’re making it, but it’s not easy. Things are definitely slower.

What are restaurants doing differently with menus, portions, specials or other options to help the consumer be able to continue to dine out?

Scott: At my place, I make sure we’re right on the money in terms of portion control. If we promise an 8-ounce burger, it’s 8 ounces, not 8.5. This way, we’re not being wasteful. In fact, not being wasteful is our main philosophy these days. We use the vegetable ends to make stock; we’re buying more effectively—by the case, not the package. I’m locking in prices with purveyors, and taking more advantage of specials and what’s in season. If beef steak filets are on special, I can get a good price for those, and pass that savings on to the customer. It works well for all of us. We also make sure lights aren’t left on, and the gas isn’t left on if nothing’s being cooked. It’s a lot of small things that we didn’t always pay attention to before, but we do now. It all adds up.

Evan: One of our most popular items right now is the Stimulus Package—it’s $19 for a three-course meal, and it’s a spectacular deal. We’ve had a number of people come in for the first time because of this offering, and we’ve had other diners who had only previously patronized the restaurant off and on now become regulars because of this menu. I definitely agree that people aren’t spending as much as before, but they still want to go out, and many of them want to experience a certain type of food and ambiance like what we offer here. This menu lets them do that.

From an efficiency perspective, we’ve taken a good look at our menu, as well. Like Scott said, we try to make use of everything. Our grandparents, and people in other nations, are much better at truly using things up. I try to find ways to use all parts of the pig, for example, not just the standard cuts. We make sausages, we use different cuts in stews. It’s actually been fun for us in the kitchen. Being more efficient forces you to be more creative, both in planning cost-effective menus, and as a challenge to your cooking skills. We’re constantly looking to be less wasteful and produce a great dish. We also always buy local, which saves on transportation costs, and reduces our carbon footprint.

Matt: We’ve always provided half portions, and that has worked really well; it’s a great value for the consumer, as most are $15 or less. It’s still a lot of food, especially when paired with a salad or appetizer. We’ve also taken some items and placed them in a “Three for $30” menu—you can get a salad, entree and dessert for $30. It’s a great deal. Like  Scott, we’ve also worked with our purveyors to get better buys, like good but less expensive types of seafood, or more mid-range wines. We’re offering some specialty nights, too, such as Ladies’ Night and Half-Price Martini Night, and my favorite, Fried Chicken Dinners on Thursdays. I’m from Atlanta, and you can cook up a really good fried chicken dinner and keep it affordable. Guests can have plenty of fried chicken, mashed potatoes, truffle gravy, and haricots vert for just $12.

Finally, we’ve always made sure that our menu had casual fare. If all you want is a beer and a burger, you can get that, and we have incredible burgers—100 percent Angus beef, and made to order.

Do special menus and coupons really work?

Scott: We have what we call our ‘Stimulus Menu,’—hey, Evan, great name!  It’s a three-course meal that costs about 20 percent less than if you bought each item individually. It includes an appetizer, an entree, and dessert, and we’ve seen a great response. About 10 to 20 percent of my customers are taking advantage of this on any given night.

Evan: I think you have to use them with caution. While our Stimulus Package has worked, I do think you have to be careful about offering specials and coupons. If you commit to too many two-for-one specials, or other specialty discounts, you run the risk of becoming locked into that even when times are better. Customers get used to those discounts and it’s hard to take them away. If you do, they may not come back. I think some promotions are good, but you have to be careful, or you’ll wind up revising your whole business model.

Matt: I think they have encouraged some people to try the restaurant who otherwise might not. I think there has been the mistaken impression, because of our really nice appearance, that the restaurant is expensive—and it’s not—there’s a very diverse menu. So, having some special menus and specialty nights has gotten people in the door, and once there, they’ve seen all we have to offer and been surprised.

You have all been in the restaurant business awhile; I assume you’ve seen bad times before. What do you see as the key to surviving them?

Scott:  I’ve been around for 20 years, too. I’ve seen this before, although I wasn’t in the management part of the business the first time around. I think to survive you need to be consistent. Good, authentic product still needs to be offered. You may have to cut back on help and run a little leaner. You also need to go over every aspect of the business and be as efficient as possible—don’t run the heat or AC excessively, for example.

Evan: It’s 19 years for me. I actually think this is the worst I’ve seen. I say that because some family friends run a restaurant in Boston—it’s been there for generations. They came up for dinner in November and said they had never seen times like these. I mean, restaurants in Boston are closing; they are being hit hard. That said, we’re doing okay. I think what keeps you going is being true to your core beliefs and your restaurant’s identity. Don’t panic and veer too far off course. Yes, these are desperate times but you can’t appear desperate. People come to your place expecting a certain experience—give that to them. We believe in this community and their support, and we make that a two-way street.

Matt: I’m the newbie at 15 years, but yes, I remember there was a downturn after September 11th. I think you have to be prepared to roll with the punches. The restaurant business always has ups and downs. I think the key to keeping customers coming in the door is maintaining quality, and offering good value. People still want to go out to eat, and they appreciate good value, so helping them out with an affordable menu can work for you both.

How are restaurants reaching out and giving back during these times?

Scott: A number of food banks are opening in the area, and we will definitely be involved with those. We also work with nonprofits all the time and help them out by donating gift certificates or participating in fundraising events. Anything we can do to help, we do.

Evan: My wife, Denise, is very involved with Seacoast Local, and we’ve partnered with them to raise money to get food and heat to those in need. Our (H)EAT event was very successful, and I’m sure we’ll be involved in more things like that.

Matt: We haven’t gotten involved on a large scale yet, since the restaurant is fairly new, but we have already done fundraising for the March of Dimes, and Taste of the Nation. We were pleased to make a contribution to both of those events, so I know we’ll do more. Whatever it is, we’ll do our part.

Crystal Ward Kent is Contributing Editor to Taste magazine and has written for Taste since its inception. She is a frequent contributor to numerous regional magazines, including Yankee, Accent, and New Hampshire Home.

Eating healthy—we see that phrase every day, from media stories to proclamations on food products, we seem a nation obsessed with eating well. But are we? We asked those on the front lines, the chefs, for the real scoop on eating healthy today.

Mitch Maxwell, owner and executive chef of Maxwell’s 148, 148 East Central Street, Natick, Massachusetts, (508) 907-6262, www.maxwells148.com. Maxwell’s 148 is the recipient of a 2007 Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. They offer an intriguing blend of French, Italian and Asian cuisine in a sophisticated suburban setting.

James Walter, executive chef, Pesce Blue, 103 Congress Street, Portsmouth, New Hampshire, (603) 430-7766, www.pesceblue.com. Pesce Blue is the only restaurant in Seacoast New Hampshire specializing in seafood with an Italian flair. The restaurant is known for its unique urban ambiance.

Jeff Landry, Executive Chef, Eve’s On the Garden, Portland Harbor Hotel, Portland, Maine, (207) 775-9090, www.portlandharborhotel.com. Eves on the Garden specializes in Mediterranean cuisine, including the flavors of Africa and the Middle East, as well as classic Southern European.

Harding Lee Smith, executive chef and owner The Front Room, 73 Congress Street, Portland, Maine, (207) 773-3366, www.thefrontroomrestauarant.com and The Grill Room, 84 Exchange Street, Portland, Maine (207) 774-BEEF (2333), (same web site as The Front Room). The Front Room is a popular local gathering spot  specializing in American comfort food, while The Grill Room, features all natural beef and seafood items, plus fantastic pizzas, all prepared on their wood-fired grill. 

We hear that there is a  healthy eating trend. Is that just talk or are diners really making an effort toward more healthy choices?

Maxwell: Customers are definitely making healthy choices. They want to know whether food is from local farms or not, and whether it is organic or not. At a quality restaurant they expect to see quality ingredients. Some diners even want to know which products are rich in antioxidants!

Walter: Wow, I haven’t had anyone ask me that, but I agree that customers are trying to make healthier choices. There is definitely a trend toward organic and sustainable fare. People want to see foods that come from local farmers’ markets, local seafood, and food from sustainable practices. We work with a lot of local and organic farms. I think this ties into the healthy eating trend because this food is better for you. It’s not produced in another country—it comes from right around here. I don’t think folks are doing as much when it comes to eating lighter or cutting calories, however—at least not when they go out to dinner.

Landry: I agree; I don’t think there is a tendancy toward healthy eating when it comes to dining out. From what we see, it’s a lot of talk. When people go out, they want their beef and their foie gras, and those other tempting items that tend to be fattier and richer. We also do our part by making sure we use all natural meats and fish—nothing has any hormones or byproducts. And, we serve smaller portions, lots of vegetables, and do a lot of reductions with our sauces. By doing these things, we provide an overall healthier experience, but in terms of customer choices, our guests still want those special foods.

Smith: (laughs) I have an idea that eating healthy is what they want to do, but when they see the menu, they do differently. Let’s be honest—people like fattening food when they go out; it’s a treat, and not what most folks have at home. My restaurant, has a wood-fired grill and we serve large cuts of beef, do lots of tempting things with bacon, and serve lots of pizzas. We also offer sides like potatoes and macaroni and cheese, and all of these items go like crazy.

At lunch, my customers may go more for salads and veggie items, but not at dinner. I do think folks are eating healthier at home, but going out is something special. You don’t get these kinds of meals or sauces at home, so when you’re paying for a dinner, you go for it.

Are restaurants changing their menus and cooking styles to accommodate healthier eating? If so, in what way?

Maxwell: We are responsive to our clients desires. Other levels of restaurants may not be as quick to change to healthier lifestyles, but we have followed that path for quite awhile. We’ve always cooked light and free. We cook with good oils and use clean cooking techniques. People are requesting organic products and wild fish, free range chicken, and wholesome beef products. We know the demand is there for healthier choices so we meet that demand.

Walter: We’ve made many of the same choices. We use canola oil for frying and cook with a lot of extra virgin oils and other better oils. We definitely go organic as much as possible; we use local produce, and we let customers know that. A number of Seacoast restaurants are making this same move, such as the Dolphin Striker and The Black Trumpet.

Landry: I guess using all natural foods is the big commitment we’re all trying to make.  By using sustainably raised fish and locally grown produce we eliminate a lot of the pesticides and preservatives. We also make everything inhouse, all of our baked goods, everything. We know exactly what’s in what we put on the table.

Smith: A few years ago, having the heart symbol next to certain dishes was popular. Now you don’t hear about that as much, as the trend is more toward whether food is local or organic.

I actually think local and organic food is healthier overall, no matter what it is. Ironically, a lot of food products were altered to make them low in fat! It’s important to know where your food comes from and how it was grown or raised. There’s also increased awareness—people want naturally-raised beef, and that’s a commitment restaurants can make.

Do you think restaurants are obligated to prepare more healthy choices?

Maxwell: It’s a simple fact—a successful restaurant accommodates the demands of clients. If they want certain things and you’re not making those foods or using those products, then you’re not going to survive. Customers will go elsewhere,
to restaurants that are meeting those requests.

Walter: I think the objective is more choices. We need to have something for everyone. It feels good as a chef for me to create something for the customer that is healthy—rather than just loading it with sauces and butter to make it taste good.

Landry: I don’t feel obligated. I feel it’s my responsibility to use quality ingredients and put out a good product, but not necessarily to make sure it’s not rich or fattening. If a dish calls for butter and cream, I’m not going to compromise the dish by eliminating those things. By the same token, I don’t go out of my way to add butter and cream to things either. I think by controlling the size of our portions, and serving lots of veggies, we have created a good compromise for the guest.

Smith: I think it’s up to the consumer, but we have a responsibility as chefs not to hide what we are cooking with, such as hiding the use of trans fats and the like. We should also pick the best quality food to work with. That said, we’re cooking food for people to enjoy—that’s the first goal—and it’s up to the consumer to choose what they will have—whether it’s salads and tofu, or chicken, or other stuff. For example, our focus is on grilled items, but that’s not all we have at The Grill Room.

We have beef, yes, but we also have seafood and other lighter dishes. Guests do have choices. 

How do you balance taste with healthy choices? Is it more challenging? Does it hamper your creativity or enhance it?

Maxwell: I don’t feel that I have to find a balance. It’s always been important that we offer flavorful food—that doesn’t change. The healthier products we offer are just as flavorful as less healthy options, if not more so.

Walter: It enhances my creativity. You have to be more creative so the food truly shines—you aren’t just covering something with sauces. I use ingredients that are full of flavor and can stand on their own. In cooking Italian, it is traditional to let good food speak for itself. You find what works, whether it’s that perfect tomato or really fresh fish.

Landry: Good cooking flows naturally. If the product you are using is top quality, then you don’t need to manipulate the flavor by adding things. A good piece of fish may only need a drizzle of olive oil to bring out the natural flavor. If you trust the integrity of your food, you’re not afraid to do that. I try not to let anything get in the way of creating a dish that tastes good.

Smith: I’m with Jeff. It doesn’t affect me at all. I use local meats, local seafood, local produce. If I use these products appropriately and treat them simply, they will be healthy. Adding a touch of butter doesn’t make it bad. Eating healthy is actually all about how much you eat and how often.

Can restaurants educate people about healthy eating? Should they? And how?

Maxwell: I visit my guests’ tables and show them the new products we’re cooking with and educate the consumer in that way. I even give them a taste. That approach works really well.

I think having direct contact with guests and talking to them in an easy, helpful way can be successful in terms of education. You can also have the server provide information. I’ve found that people appreciate the effort, and value the expert knowledge that comes from someone who makes their living cooking and preparing food products. I’ve even had guests call me to ask my advice on what to have for a party or special evening when they want items that are both healthy and flavorful. I’m happy to advise.

Walter: I like Mitch’s commitment. I think restaurants can make efforts to educate their guests, but ultimately it’s up to the people to want to learn. Some folks just want to eat what they like and that’s it. But I think restaurants can provide information on their menus that shows that they are committed to using local and organic products—even though they cost more—and that this choice is being made with the consumer in mind. We can also recognize the local growers that supply us, and give them a boost. All of this helps push the trend toward better and healthier food.

Landry: I think we should educate our servers so they can let guests know what’s in a dish, but I don’t think guests should receive a lecture on healthy food when they come in. If they have questions about whether a dish contains trans fats or other items, then our servers should be prepared to answer those questions, and any others. However, when we’re introducing a new wine or a special class of tea, our servers educate our guests about why these products are special. They can do that because we’ve taken the time to educate them; the same should be true when it comes to the food; we should take the time to educate our servers about what is and is not in our dishes.

Smith: I think you can put on your menus that you are using naturally-raised or naturally grown products—we say that on ours. Educating people about what you do and why is beneficial to the restaurant and the consumer. If we educate them about why we buy and use what we do, that may influence their choices when they make purchases.

Crystal Ward Kent is Contributing Editor to Taste magazine and has written for Taste since its inception. She is a frequent contributor to numerous regional magazines, including Yankee, Accent, and New Hampshire Home.