Chefs
 There’s always something fishy going on in Richard Pettigrew’s life. Pettigrew is the owner of Seaport Fish, a New Hampshire business that wears many hats. Pettigrew supplies fresh-caught fish to the region’s restaurants and sells it in his retail stores. In addition, the stores sell prepared seafood like chowder and lobster, along with gourmet foods, produce, and beer and wine.
The company has been around since 1978; Pettigrew bought it in 2007, but his connection goes back much further. “I grew up here,” he says. “My grandfather was involved in the business, so as a kid I was always here. I started helping out on the retail end when I was 15 or 16 years old, then worked up to doing filleting, and eventually becoming a buyer down in Boston. I love every aspect of the job!” Pettigrew has expanded the business, and just opened a third retail store in Alton; other locations are in Dover and Rye.
Seaport Fish specializes in providing the freshest fish possible—literally procuring the fish right off the boats, and selling it the same day. They buy fish both locally, in the Portsmouth area, and in Massachusetts, in Boston, Gloucester, and New Bedford. “We handpick everything we buy,” says Pettigrew. “We know exactly what fish came off of what boat and where it was caught. Everything we sell comes from around here—we aren’t dealing with items that came in from China or someplace like that.”
Seaport Fish rents part of the Portsmouth Fishing Pier, which Pettigrew feels gives the business a closer connection to local fishermen. “When a boat docks, they land their catch and we are right there, picking out what we want, pricing it, then processing it at our plants, and getting it into our markets the same day, so you absolutely get the best product possible,” he says. “We also post what’s just been caught, what boat brought it in, and who the captain is, on all of our social media. People love it.”
According to Pettigrew, the local boats out of Portsmouth, Rye, and Hampton, New Hampshire, and Kittery, Maine, are primarily bringing in cod, pollock, monkfish, and flounder. They also land bluefish, redfish, hake, mackerel, and, occasionally, sole. “Scallops can be had locally, too,” he says. “But the demand is so great that we can buy a fisherman’s whole quota and still need more. As for haddock, we can’t fill the demand for that up here—it’s extremely popular. So we work with boats out of Gloucester and New Bedford and get it from them. It’s funny, up here haddock is all the rage. But in southern Massachusetts and points south, they’re not interested. They want cod!”
Finding the fish that the market demands is a constant challenge. During certain seasons, some species of fish are migrating, spawning, or frequenting different areas and therefore harder to find. Other times, fishing grounds may be closed due to strict fishing quotas. Nonetheless, Pettigrew’s solid network of fishermen and buyers is dedicated to filling the need.
“I may get a call at 4 a.m. saying that a Gloucester boat has landed a huge haul and what do we want,” he says. “We spring into action and the fish is on its way to our markets. Everything is on a daily basis. You never know what’s coming in, and you never know what the day will bring in terms of demand.”
If there’s any downside to Pettigrew’s job, it’s seeing how the fishing trade has changed. “It’s been very sad seeing the number of boats decrease over the years,” he says. “A lot of people have left the business. Families who fished for generations are selling their boats. It’s very hard to make a living as a fisherman today. Hopefully, the fishermen active today will stay in. If the government is right, and these restrictions help the fishing grounds improve, then one day there will be enough fish to revive the industry.”
One thing Pettigrew doesn’t do is go fishing. “Maybe a little,” he laughs. “But really, this job is kind of all-consuming. It’s a way of life in itself.”
He takes pride in Seaport Fish’s commitment to quality, and in the fact that he’s boosting local businesses. “People are excited about local products,” he says. “They’re proud of our fishermen. They don’t take them for granted anymore. That’s nice to see, and we’re pleased to help their hard work be recognized.”
Seaport Fish
13 Sagamore Road
Rye, N.H.
603-436-7286
(additional locations in
Dover and Alton)
www.seaportfish.com |
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Written by Crystal Ward Kent
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April 08, 2010 |
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With the abundance of television cooking shows, chefs have become major celebrities, attracting a following fascinated not only by what they do in the kitchen, but also about being a chef. We decided to explore the “Secret Lives of Chefs,” by asking some local favorites what that life is really like and why they do what they do.
Meet the Roundtable
 Tom Puskarich, Chef/owner Z Restaurant, Manchester, New Hampshire. A brand new restaurant, Z offers a modern, artsy decor with funky touches and casual, popular fare. Photograph by Austin Trenholm.
 Earl Morse, Executive Chef, Eve’s at the Garden at the Portland Harbor Hotel, Portland, Maine. Located in the historic Old Port, this sophisticated restaurant features the best of local ingredients and Maine seafood, and also showcases Morse’s award-winning ice-carving skills. Photograph courtesy of Portland Harbor Hotel.
 Gary Caron, Executive Chef, Stripers, Kennebunkport, Maine. Known for its “Fresh menu, and fresh view,” Stripers, located at the Breakwater Inn, offers elegant food and a striking waterfront location. Photograph by Jeremy Heflin.
 Jethro Loichle, Executive Chef, Ristorante Massimo, Portsmouth, New Hamp-shire. Ristorante Massimo is one of Portsmouth’s most popular restaurants, known for its romantic atmosphere and outstanding Italian cuisine. Photograph by Jack Bingham Studio.
Why did you become a chef, and what keeps you in the business?
Tom: The sheer love of food, of seeing people enjoy something I created. Also, believe it or not, I like the hours! I got into cooking in college. I worked in restaurants to pay my way—I was a math ed major—but found I enjoyed my side job more than I did school. I continued in the business out in San Diego, and fell in love with the lifestyle. What wasn’t to like about sleeping in, going to the beach till about 3:00 p.m., then heading off to work? It suited me much better than working nine to five. Now I own my own restaurant, so my hours are longer, and I’m not heading off to the beach, but I still find this a much more exciting field than most. I like the diversity, the energy, and am still excited about food. That keeps me being a chef.
Earl: It was an easy choice for me. When I was in high school, I won a silver medal in a statewide cooking competition. That made me think I might be good at it. I received a scholarship to the Cooking Institute of America in New York City, and while there, I took everything from that experience. I remain a chef because I have that passion for cooking. And I finally feel like I understand flavors and food. I think it takes about 10 years for you to truly learn your craft, develop your palate. I feel like I’m just beginning to hit my stride.
Gary: It’s exciting, there’s always a lot going on. I started cooking in the late 1970s, but didn’t graduate from culinary school until 1983. I guess you could say I came in the back door! In the beginning, what drew me to it was the fast pace, but now, it’s the pure pleasure of feeding people, and seeing my food appreciated.
Jethro: I started cooking professionally 15 years ago. It’s something I’ve always loved—I love to turn fresh ingredients into something beautiful; and that still compels me to this day. I also love the hustle and bustle of the kitchen. I can’t imagine doing anything else.
How do you keep it fresh in the kitchen day after day, or even year after year?
Tom: I’ve been in the business 25 years now, and there is always something new coming along. The food business is constantly evolving. New products are arriving, new techniques, new regional flavors. I still love to learn so all of this excites me. I also set up the menu so it forces me to do something different. Like the catch of the day—there are always different fish coming in, and new ways to fix them. My food vendors also tell me about new products and items to try, so that keeps me on my toes. No day in the restaurant business is ever the same; every day there is something new.
Earl: There’s an endless array of new dishes to work with. You’re either creating something new, or taking classics and trying to keep them fresh. You can’t get bored because a good chef needs to be able to inspire his staff—and it works both ways. I have a very dynamic team, and their excitement motivates me. I love teaching them, and they love learning. I also find the camaraderie keeps me in the business. The hours are long, so having good relationships with your staff is key.
Gary: Earl’s right. Part of what keeps it fresh is the people around you; they drive you and help keep you moving forward. Things are also much more exciting today; there’s a lot going on in the food world, from new trends to techniques, and just tons of information. Even if you don’t buy into everything that’s happening, just hearing about it motivates you.
Jethro: I never get bored because with New England’s four seasons, there’s always a new cycle. Tomatoes come in and you’re excited about cooking with them. Then fall arrives, and you have root vegetables, and that’s another avenue to explore. Fall also means canning, pickling, curing meats—more new things to do. By following the seasons, you can always reinvent yourself.
Do you ever feel pressured to jump on the trend bandwagon? How do you stay true to yourself?
Tom: No. I keep an eye on what’s hot, but I see trends more like tools in a toolbox—something I’ll use on occasion, but not something I’m compelled to follow. I’m a technique-driven chef, and I stick to those things that I know are the foundation of good cooking.
Earl: A lot of the recent trends, such as slow-cooking, are very good trends. I think most chefs play around with trends to some extent, but you can’t be a slave to them. After 15 years of cooking and traveling the world, I’ve realized I’ve developed my own style, and I know who I am in terms of my cooking. And, like Tom, I focus on good technique. The fundamentals are the mainstay of my cooking. I can apply them to any cuisine, and to any task I undertake. If you do things the right way, you’ll produce good food.
Gary: Sometimes there’s that pressure, but New England is not as trend-oriented as other parts of the country. People come here looking for the classics. I hear that from our customers all the time. Like the other chefs, I find that doing a really good job, and using fresh food, is going to bring in the customers more than jumping on the latest trend.
Jethro: I’m with Tom; I’ve never felt like I needed to jump on the bandwagon. Some trends are good—like buying local, although for us, that’s not a recent trend. We’ve always done that, and hope this is one trend that sticks around. But on the whole, I think trends should primarily inspire you to be unique and create your own ideas.
What do you think is glamorized about TV chefs? Any pet peeves?
Tom: (Laughs) Them shopping at the farmers’ markets! One show had a very famous chef going to Whole Foods and he got completely lost. He finally admitted that he never went shopping. He made phone orders and the food was brought to him. Most of us, especially if we’re chef/owners, don’t have time to go out with our baskets and shop the markets daily—it’s not possible. First thing in the morning, I have to check in with my maintenance people, pay bills, check supplies, check staffing—I don’t have time. I shop the markets on my personal time to see what’s in, and pass things that intrigue me on to my purveyors or staff, but for my day-to-day, I rely on others to buy for me.
Earl: The need for instant gratification. A lot of cooks on these shows are looking for instant star status, and want to get their own restaurants NOW. But they really don’t know how to cook yet. They need to learn their craft because they’re carrying the flag for our industry. Simply being on TV doesn’t take the place of years of experience. I also think these shows send a bad message to kids considering this field. Cooking isn’t about fame and being rich—it’s about knowledge of food, and to do it well, you need heart, passion, and love for what you do. Because in real life, you’re certainly not going to be rich or famous.
Gary: I don’t think they depict the stress level accurately. They show a little of that, but mostly it’s all flash and glamour—and there is no flash and glamour! This is hot, sweaty, stressful work and you’ve got to love it to stick with it. Like Earl said, you’re not going to get rich and famous, and too many kids watching think this is an easy path to success. It’s not, and it takes a while to work your way up. You have to be in it because you truly have a passion for cooking.
Jethro: When they create things that you know are just terrible, and because they’re on TV everyone raves about it. I watched a show called Dinner Impossible and the chef made dishes with all these artificial ingredients. They kept saying how good the food was, and it just wasn’t believable! I also get frustrated when TV chefs use obscure ingredients then tell viewers they can get them “at their local grocery store.”
How do you know when it’s time to move on?
Tom: When it becomes a chore and you start going through the motions.
Earl: I think you keep moving and gaining experience until you find that place that feels like home, yet allows you to grow and thrive. Sometimes it takes a while to find the right fit, but the best place is one that uses all your talents to their fullest, and allows you to stretch. I think a lot of chefs get their own places in order to achieve that, but you learn from every place you work.
Gary: I stayed at my last job 17 years! I probably should’ve moved on sooner. It can be easy to get comfortable, especially if it is a good situation. You should leave when the job is no longer a challenge.
Jethro: When you feel you’ve learned all you can. Everything in life has a time, and at some point, you’re ready for the next challenge. It’s a healthy thing. You need to seize that next opportunity. When you do leave, though, it’s important to leave amicably. Working in a restaurant is like being part of a family, so leaving is always tough.
How does being a chef impact your personal life?
Tom: It does, but I’m at peace with it. I realized that even though I’d dated 12 different women over the last decade, in reality, I’d just kept dating the same type of woman! Now my housemate and partner is someone outside the restaurant business, and it’s working. I was very upfront with her about the demands of this business, so she knew what to expect. I think the fact that I’m involved with someone outside the business has given my life much more balance.
Earl: Balance is key. Being a chef is a lot of long hours, and it requires a lot of energy. I don’t think people realize that. You really need to be fit to keep up. I think it’s important to find an activity outside the kitchen to help you stay mentally and physically healthy, to give you that balance. I hit the gym, box, run with my bulldog. Stuff like that gives me a different perspective.
Gary: Well, after all this time, it’s a normal life for me and my family! I have a beautiful home and a great family—I’ve been married 24 years—and we’ve adapted. I was in the business when my wife and I got married, so she knew what things would be like. In fact, we got married on my day off, and two days later I was back at work. It’s all we’ve ever known.
Jethro: Long hours and working weekends does have an effect, so I try to find balance during the week. But I’ve read that if you do what you love, you’ll never work a day in your life, and that’s how I feel about being a chef.
What is something that most people don’t know about chefs?
Tom: No one ever asks us over for dinner! I’m serious. People get so nervous about cooking for us that they won’t ask us over. I mean, I’m happy with a burger! There are a lot of lonely chefs sitting at home waiting for a phone call!
Earl: We rarely watch television. We are too busy engineering menus or some such thing. If we’re lucky enough to have downtime, we try to enjoy a glass of wine with the one we love.
Gary: We care very much about making you happy. It truly bothers us if we don’t.
Jethro: We’re all very close. It’s like a brotherhood. We honor and respect each other’s work. There are a few other things, but if I told you, I’d be kicked out of the club!
Crystal Ward Kent is Contributing Editor to Taste magazine and has written for Taste since its inception. She is a frequent contributor to numerous regional magazines, including Yankee, Accent, and New Hampshire Home.
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Last Updated on April 08, 2010 |
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Written by Taste Magazine
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February 03, 2010 |
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 Jethro Loichle Executive Chef at Ristorante Massimo, Portsmouth, NH.
Born in Millstone, New Jersey, Jethro Loichle’s passion for food began on his family’s five acre farm. There he learned the fundamentals of planting, growing and cultivating various types of produce and learned the craft of preparing and bringing food from the garden to the table. At the ripe age of 14, Jethro began working at a local restaurant in his hometown; intrigued by the chef’s creations in the kitchen and inspired by their camaraderie, Jethro decided to begin a career as an apprentice chef and quickly absorbed everything his mentors taught him.
Jethro has always had a love for New England and its four seasons. Growing up, his family vacationed in New Hampshire and Maine and he became fascinated with seeing lobstermen retrieving their catch and the different seafood that is available in New England. From meats, fish, produce, cheeses and everything in between, the selection that is readily available from local artisans here on the seacoast is unsurpassable. In 2000, he decided to move to the area he enjoyed so much and settled in Portsmouth. For the past 5 years, Jethro has been the highly acclaimed Executive Chef at Ristorante Massimo, in historic downtown Portsmouth, NH. Jethro’s harmonious approach to flavor, intuitive cooking ability, and wealth of culinary knowledge remain a source of pride and constant amazement to Ristorante Massimo’s staff and guests alike. Jethro is described as someone who spends every waking moment of his day thinking about ingredients, creating dishes, preparing food, and delighting guests.
Always humble, Jethro has been the recipient of numerous regional awards and has been recognized by the areas culinary world’s most respected members. The famed Mary Ann Esposito, host of the longest running cooking series, Ciao Italia with Mary Ann Esposito, recently said “It is always a pleasure to enjoy a fine dining experience at Ristorante Massimo. The ambiance and hospitality match the delicious fresh seasonal foods that are always expertly prepared, innovative but not pretentious. Definitely a must when you want to savor good Italian cooking as it should be.”
Billy Costa, Host of TV Diner awarded Ristorante Massimo with a Platinum Plate, the highest rating given. Along with the award Billy said that Ristorante Massimo is “serving up some of the most authentic Italian cuisine TV Diner has ever tasted” he goes on to say; “This is the most Romantic restaurant on God’s green earth”.
Portsmouth Herald says "The whole experience of this restaurant engulfs one into a gourmand's opera, a seamless, harmonious composition of atmosphere, service and fine Italian cuisine rooted in local New England ingredients… Impeccable service, creative dishes at Ristorante Massimo…This restaurant should be at the top of your list. It’s relaxing, tastefully decorated, and delightfully romantic.”
True to character, Jethro is always challenging and pushing himself to forever expand his creativity. Last fall, Jethro introduced a bistro menu featuring 3 courses for $29.95. The response was far greater than he could have anticipated. The bistro menu is back and he will be focusing on various Italian regions- “A Taste of the Country Side” to bring to the table right here in Portsmouth, NH. www.ristorantemassimo.com
Thursday Evenings Bistro Night, A Taste of “La Campagna” - Italy’s Countryside
Three-course prix fixe
$29.95
Antipasti
Choice of:
Torta di Granchio
Panko-crusted Peekytoe crab cake served with smoked paprika aioli
and sherry glazed bell pepper relish; garnished with micro arugula
Brodo di Polpette
Italian Wedding Soup with petite Kobe Beef meatballs, rich brodo and
garnished with barley, spinach and a Parmigiano crisp
Anatra Grigliato
Grilled Mallard duck breast served with sautéed Andouille sausage, red bliss potatoes
and snap peas; finished with a Bing cherry agro dolce
Entrée
Choice of:
Salmone Arrostito
Pan-roasted all-natural Loch Duart salmon served with butter-poached leeks,
potato purée, chive burro bianco and salmon roe
Brasata di Manzo
Chianti braised beef short rib crusted in Gorgonzola Dolce served with
caramelized parsnip and crispy shallots
Pollo e Mele
Lemon-thyme rubbed roasted half chicken with herbed potatoes, baby carrots and
roasted Lady apples; finished with natural roasting juices
Dolci
Choice of:
Calzolaio
Roasted Bartlett pear cobbler with house made peaches and cream gelato
Tiramisu
Rum-espresso soaked lady finger cookies layer with mascarpone cheese custard and dark cacao
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Last Updated on February 22, 2010 |
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Written by Jessica Houghton
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January 11, 2010 |
 Karl Mace is the Executive Chef of the Union Bluff Hotel & Meeting House in York Beach, Maine. Karl has had extensive culinary training, primarily in the south, including the famous 5 star, 5 diamonds Greenbrier in West Virginia as Sous Chef . He has worked under several renowned Chefs and has a great love for food preparation and presentation. His resume also includes Sous Chef at the 4 star Sapphire Grill, and being the youngest Executive Chef at the Chatham Club, a private city club, both in Savannah, Georgia. He also worked at the Stolen Menu Café and York Harbor Inn in York, ME.
He has received many accolades throughout the years and has cooked at the James Beard House this past December to a sell out crowd, cooking a Maine themed dinner representing The Union Bluff Hotel with his Chef de Cuisine Nick Gough. They have been invited back to cook again this year which is a high honor. The Union Bluff Hotel will be having the James Beard Dinner and Wine Tasting February 26th at 6pm reenacting the Menu and the same wines from Four Vines Winery. The menu includes:
Hors d’Oeuvre
Maine Lobster Munchkins with Fermented Garlic, Local Quark, and Olive Oil Jimmies
Pemaquid Mussel Salad with Fried Native Potatoes, Radishes, Seal Cove Farm Chèvre, Banyuls, and Crème Fraîche
Petite Oxtail Sloppy Joes with Anadama Bread, Fresh Ricotta, Melted Shallots, and Mâche
Late Harvest Beet and Nancy’s Crab Sandwiches with Sea Urchin, Four Herbs, and Maine Sea Salt
Dinner
Lobster Potage with Lobster Glace, Tomato Confit, Guanciale, Maine Potatoes, Thistle Hill Farn Tarentaise Cheese, and Sourdough Crouton
Soldier Bean and Butter Lettuce Salad with Cracklings, Beets, and Minus 8 Wine Vinegar
Penobscot Bay Cod Cheeks with Peppered Pork Belly, Mahogany Clams, Beta Carrots, and Cubanelle Sauce
Prime Beef Duo > Grilled Eye of Rib-Eye and 48-Hour-Braised Cap with Farro Risotto, Crosnes, Fried Brussels Sprout Leaves, and Veal Jus
Chocolate Salami with Dried Maine Blueberries, Malted Apples, Ginger Cookies, and Eggnog Sauce
49.95pp
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Last Updated on January 11, 2010 |
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Written by Joann Actis-Grande
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November 30, 2009 |
 *Photograph by MAC Photography
When did you first become interested in cooking?
After college, I started working at Fidelity Investments in Boston. In not much time, I realized that I needed to be doing something that excited me. So I started taking cooking classes on weekends for two years. While I was taking cooking classes, I worked in various restaurants.
Where did you learn how to cook?
Johnson & Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island—they have an amazing culinary program. After receiving my associate’s degree in culinary arts, I decided to advance my career by learning more about Italian cuisine, and joined a master class program at the International Culinary Institute for Foreigners in Costigliole d’Asti, in Italy. Years later, I took a master class in Mexican Cuisine at Centro Ambrosio Culinaria in Mexico City, Mexico.
Tell me about your culinary career?
After finishing the master class program in Italy, I worked at several Italian restaurants preparing hot and cold appet-izers, pasta courses, managing kitchens and executing dinner service. Two of the restaurants were Michelin rated. When I returned to New England, I became Product Development Manager for prepared foods at Star Markets & Wild Harvest in Cambridge. This position allowed me to be very creative while developing new recipes. The company was sold, so I contacted Chef Rosario Del Nero, a mentor of mine, and was able to interview with him while he was at Bertucci’s. During the seven years I was with Bertucci’s, I was Senior Director of Culinary and Beverage Operations, Chef, and Area Training Director. I discovered that teaching excites me, and with my diverse culinary skills, it led me to Assistant Director of Education at The Cambridge School of Arts. Now I am VP Executive Chef at Margarita’s, and just recently celebrated my one year anniversary with the company.
What brought you to Margarita’s, a Mexican Restaurant?
They have a great concept and I knew it would be a wonderful place to work. I wasn’t worried about cooking Mexican food because I have always enjoyed the flavors and ingredients that go into their recipes. It’s the type of cuisine you eat with your eyes. And after I prepared a meal for the owners, John and Dave Pelletier, it confirmed my passion for Mexican cuisine.
What’s new at Margarita’s?
We have four new sauces, and we are always changing our menu with staple dishes and options—recently Chile Relleno was put back on the menu by popular demand. We are always adding to our authentic décor by traveling frequently to Mexico, to the cities of Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta for unique arts and crafts, and great food ideas. And Margarita’s has just launched a new website featuring special offers, gift cards and “On The Go-Curbside Express.” We also give a lot back to the community. This past Cinco de Mayo, the busiest day for Margarita’s, we gave 5 percent of all food sales to the New Hampshire Food Bank. There are 19 Margarita locations, and three more are in the works—and we are now offering franchises.
Most chefs have an embarrassing moment or story; do you?
The incident I remember most was cooking pasta at an Italian restaurant in Italy, and the pasta was sent back by a six year old because it was overcooked—definitely taught me a lesson on how Italians want their pasta cooked.
What’s new for you?
Traveling through the Southwest area of the United States to Arizona, New Mexico and Texas, tasting and exploring American/Mexican food in other areas of our country.
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Last Updated on November 30, 2009 |
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