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Editor's Picks
Editor's Picks October 2009
Written by Jean Kerr   
jeankerr.jpgI’m back after a September hiatus which took me to a graduation at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York (complete with an unbelievable dinner at their Escoffier restaurant and a special menu that was a tribute to Julia Child) followed by a week in New York eating my way from Greenwich Village to the Upper West Side. A mid-town Brazilian festival was one of the highlights—complete with Brazilian street food and, of course, a caipirinha at a Brazil Brazil Restaurant on West 46th Street.

Back in our neck of the woods, a recent visit to the York, Maine Farmer’s Market yielded unexpected benefits. Although it’s much smaller that the Portsmouth market, I found not only good veggies but a couple of specialty products that are new favorites.

Lakonia Greek Products is a family business that offers products that originate on the family farm in a small Greek village of Gythion. The founder, Daphne Contaros had lived most of her life in the U.S. but on a trip to Greece in the 1990s was struck by how superior the olive oil was to that available in the States. In 2006 she began exporting their wares back to the U.S. and selling them at the farmer’s market in Saco, Maine. Daphne’s son Michael let me sample a few specialties.
Their products include gorgeous, full-flavored olive oils, Kalamata olives, Greek mountain tea, wild grown oregano, and their insanely good salad dressings. Check out Lakonia’s Lemon, Red Wine and Balsamic dressings over your favorite greens or veggies. Find them online at www.lakoniagreekproducts.com

Another pleasant surprise was York, Maine based Hubba Hubba Foods, makers of spice blends like Chow Bambino, Italian herbs perfect for seasoning tomato sauce or pizza; Funky Fennel, a rustic Italian style rub for chicken, pork, and roasted veggies; Java Jerk, a coffee and star anise rub that’s an ideal match for steak, and Herbs de Provence, their lavender infused herb blend for use with chicken, vegetables or fish.  Their motto is “for those who can’t stand the bland.” With Thanksgiving just around the corner, check out their Jumpin’ Jive Turkey for perfect seasoned poultry.   Find their entire product line at www.hubbahubbafoods.com

We’ll be back next month with great tips, ideas and products for the holidays!

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August 2009 Editor's Picks
Written by Jean Kerr   
jeankerr.jpgAugust is New Hampshire Eat Local Month! What can you do to add more locally grown foods to your diet? Visit www.nheatlocal.org to get or share ideas.

I’ve got to wrap this up and get back to the kitchen as I’m having friends over for dinner tonight. In keeping with the spirit of August being Eat Local Month (it’s tougher in February, I know) I am roasting a six-pound chicken caringly raised by a friend of mine in Farmington, NH. Along with that, we’ll be having farm stand new red potatoes, locally grown green beans, and a local tomato salad. We’ll finish up with a local berry tart--it just doesn’t get any better than that!

Looking for a farmers' market to visit the first week? Try Seacoast Harvest- www.seacoastharvest.org for a list of farmers' markets in Rockingham, Strafford, and York Counties. Visit www.nheatlocal.org for event and activity information.

Time For Lunch

The Time for Lunch Campaign is a project of Slow Food USA, the goal of which is to raise awareness of and take action to change the Child Nutrition Act, a federal law that comes up for reauthorization in Congress every four to five years. It governs the National School Lunch Program, which sets the standard for the (often not very good) food that more than 30 million children eat every school day.

This year, Slow Food USA is asking everyone to get involved.  On Labor Day, Sept. 7, 2009, people in communities all over the country will sit down to share a meal with their neighbors and kids. This National Eat-In is designed to send a clear message to Congress: It's time to provide America's children with real food at school. Slow Food Seacoast will be participating by holding their monthly potluck on Monday, Sept. 7.

Community Supported Fisheries - CSFs
As local growers and producers have introduced Community Supported Agriculture, Several Seafood Fresh & Local partners are starting CSFs as a way to be sure local fish from consumers that we can buy local when it comes to seafood too. You can now partner with local fishermen to buy seafood directly for a predetermined length of time.  CSF members give the fishermen financial support in advance of the season, and in turn receive a weekly share of seasonal seafood caught during the season. A member of a CSF has the benefit of knowing exactly where their food came from, who their fisherman, and in turn helps strengthen the local community.  For more info, visit http://blog.seacoasteatlocal.org/category/seafood.

Coming this winter, the Yankee Fishermen's Coop will be offering a Northern Shrimp CSF. At this time, they are looking to gauge interest and figure out where pick up locations should be held Northern shrimp freeze really well, and this would be a great way to make sure you get your shrimp and have some to fill your freezer for the rest of the year! To my mind, this is one of the most underappreciated and underutilized seafood products in the northeast. If you’re interested, let them know at http://cecf1.unh.edu/formbuilder/forms/form287_shrmpcsf.htm .

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July 2009 Editor's Picks
Written by Jean Kerr   
jeankerr.jpgGiving Back
First, a huge shout-out to Seaport Fish in Rye, New Hampshire, who donated four pounds of some of the most beautiful halibut I’ve ever cooked for a Mediterranean dinner for eight. This was auctioned at the Fair Tide benefit gala, and proceeds went to support the Kittery, Maine-based organization that provides safe, dignified, affordable housing and comprehensive support services to formerly homeless individuals and families. Taste Culinary Editor, Paula Sullivan and I, served up baccalao cakes with a roasted red pepper aioli; caldo verde, the potato and cabbage based Portuguese national soup, Halibut en Papillote with citrus, leeks and fennel , and finally flan with strawberries and blackberries. Our hosts, Bill and Betsy Wish, took good care of the chefs with a recreation of Pesce Blue’s signature Lemon Thyme martini! Thanks to all for a fun and fruitful event!

Roadtrip
In May, Taste publisher Keith Lemerise, Wine Columnist Joanne Actis- Grande, and I happily accepted an invitation to the Nantucket Wine Festival. I had the pleasure of being the emcee for the kick-off event at Jasper White cooking demo. It was great to be with Jasper and see this legendary chef in action. Not only did we have five days of incredible tastings, seminars, demos and after-parties, I was hosted by two of Nantucket’s premier restaurants: The Pearl and their sister venue, Boardinghouse. www.boardinghouse-pearl.com

Both of these are absolute gems. The décor at The Pearl made me think of snorkeling in the Caribbean—cool aqua colors, with spaces divided by translucent bulkheads that reminded me of sea glass. The menu changes frequently and showcases gorgeous local seafood as well as international ingredients. There is a distinct Asian influence in Seth and Angela Raynor’s menu. Their extensive wine list features both domestic and international varietals, as well as bottles of saki that range in price from $28 to $225 dollars.  We started with a signature Pearl cocktail: their Passionfruit Cosmo. We then tasted a few of their signature dishes including their Yellowfin Tuna Martini, a luscious combo of tuna tartare, with Wasabi Tobiko, Crème Fraiche, and a Crisp Gyoza Skin. Another signature dish is the Nantucket Salt and Pepper Wok-Fried Lobster. It’s a gorgeous place with a gorgeous menu, and service to match. Their other adjacent venue, Boardinghouse, offers more casual dining but with the same deft touch in the kitchen. Their crispy fried oysters are to die for, and Angela couldn’t have been more welcoming. Thanks for a lovely dining experience! Look for more on these great dining destinations in future issue of Taste.

What to Do Now
I just know the rest of the summer is going to be filled with beautiful golden days and gorgeous sunsets. (Please?) So to celebrate, book a Cruise &  Dine package with on Tug Alley Two (the little tug that could), operated by Tugboat Alley on Bow Street in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. Take a BYOB cocktail cruise and then dine at your choice of either The Wellington Room or the Black Trumpet Bistro. The Wellington Room is now in the capable hands of new owners Matthew and Karen Sharlot. They were kind enough to invite me to sample the kind of the three-course meal that’s available as part of your Cruise & Dine adventure. Seated at a table overlooking the river, we started with their Roasted Beet and Chevre Salad, followed by a perfectly-medium rare, perfectly tender rack of lamb. For dessert, we sampled a crispy-topped,  delicate crème brulee, one of the best I’ve had. It was a lovely experience.
The Black Trumpet Bistro on Ceres Street features Chef/Owner Evan Mallett’s inspired and eclectic menu. With these two chefs, you just can’t go wrong. All this good fun and great is only $135.00 per person, which includes a narrated cruise on Tugboat Alley Too, a multi-course dinner, wine pairings, as well as taxes and gratuities. For more info, go to www.tugboatalley.com or call (603)430-9556.

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May 2009 Editor's Picks
Written by Jean Kerr   

jeankerr.jpgIf you’re a hummus lover, or have a sweet tooth, check out this great new product line: Somersworth, New Hampshire based Crazy Camel Dessert Hummus. The brainchild of Chef Chuck McGonagle and Bonnie McLoud, it’s currently available in six lip-smacking flavors: Pumpkin Pie, Toasted Almond, Chocolate Mousse, Caramel Apple, Maple Walnut, and good old Peanut Butter.

I’m not aware of any other product like it. It all came about while Chuck was in the kitchen with  his "picky eater” teenage daughter. Trying regular hummus for the first time, his daughter Lauren blurted out, "Yuk! Can't you add some peanut butter to this?” Chuck took her idea to heart and the Crazy Camel line was born.

There are great serving suggestions on their web site, but I found myself thinking, “Gee, this would be great on. . .”  Maybe the Chocolate Mousse and Maple Walnut layered in an ice-cream parfait? Or a quick layer cake with piled up pound cake slices slathered in between with Toasted Almond? Their products are not only delicious but the nutritional information listed on the web site is pretty encouraging. Their products are generally low in fat, high in fiber and very kid-friendly. You can find their products at a variety of local stores like Tuttle’s Red Barn in Dover, The Golden Harvest in Kittery, and will soon be available at Philbrick’s Fresh Market, and The Meat House’s numerous locations. Visit www.desserthummus.com for a list of stores, as well as serving ideas and nutritional info.

Craving something on the barbie, I picked up a couple of gorgeous steaks from Philbrick’s Fresh Market this past weekend—Maine free-range grass fed beef.  The good people in the meat department warned me that since the beef is so low in fat that if overcooked it becomes tough. Luckily I’m a rare to medium rare person, so no problem. Just a quick sear on the grill and they were meltingly tender with a rich almost buttery flavor. Dan Nelson in the Philbrick’s meat department explained that the steaks come from Wee Bit Farm in Orland, Maine and come from Scottish Highland cattle. And trimmed, they have less fat and cholesterol than white meat chicken. If you’re a carnivore, you’ll be lovin’ it! Check out www.aweebitfarm.com as well as Philbrick’s other great meats like Hardwick Farm in Vermont. Ah, meat without the guilt (mostly!)

As part of his guest chef series, Chef Rob Evans of Hugo’s in Portland has invited Chef Masa Miyake to join him in preparing a dinner of “unbridled cuisine” at Hugo’s on Sunday, May 17th . Chef Masa, while trained in Italian and French cuisine, is best known locally for his outstanding sushi restaurant, the eponymous Miyake. These two superstars will combine their talents to create eight unbelievable courses. Rob’s special dinners sell out fast even at 125 bucks a head.  Call 207-774-8538 for more information.

 

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April 2009 Editor's Picks
Written by Jean Kerr   

jeankerr.jpg

Late breaking news! Ruth Reichl is the Eric Clapton of the food world. Superbly talented, versatile, and world-wise--a true sage of the culinary world. She is the Editor of Gourmet, star of Diary of a Foodie, best selling author and former New York Times food critic, among other things. We are thrilled that she will be in Portsmouth, New Hampshire for  the Music Hall's writer's series on May 1st and will then participate in  the Music Hall's Annual Kitchen Tour on May 2nd. She will be autographing copies of her books along the way. Don't miss it! For more information visit the Music Hall at www.themusichall.org.  And google Ruth Reichl if you're not already a fan. She's a star.

This month I had the pleasure of sampling some great new products from specialty food producers in the area.  What a lot of culinary talent we have out there!

As a year-round griller, I didn’t need to wait to uncover the grill to try out Denny Mike’s barbeque sauces and rubs.  Born and raised in Maine, Dennis Michael Sherman met a Texan during an exchange year in Mexico who started DennyMike’s his obsession with great barbeque. Based in Old Orchard Beach, DennyMike’s ‘Cue Stuff won two 1st Place awards at the National Barbeque Association Conference and Expo held in Austin Texas this past February (that sounds like my kinda business trip!) The first was for his Chick Magnet Dry Rub and the second for his Pixie Dust.  Altogether he walked away with a total of five Award of Excellence medals. Not bad for a Yankee. I loved the Carolina Style Barbeque—try marinating boneless chicken thighs in the stuff and grilling ‘em. Yum. And their Fintastic dry rub was great on a piece of pan roasted cod. I mixed it with a little flour, dredged the fish in it, shook off the excess and cooked it hot and fast in a touch of butter. Check out their fun filled web site --www.dennymikes.com -- for recipes, cooking videos, and even barbeque games. It’s all on ‘cue. (Get it?)

Check out frequent  Taste columnist Natalie Maclean’s coolest new gizmo. Her Drinks Matcher Widget is available to download on her web site. Listing hundreds of dishes and drinks, you can click on either and get Natalie’s expert opinions on what to serve with what-- whether it’s wine, beer, or Irish whiskey. Natalie was voted the World’s Best Drinks Writer at the World Food Media Awards and has won four James Beard awards, so she ought to know. To use or download the Drinks Matcher Widget, just go to www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher.

 

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March 2009 Editor's Picks
Written by Jean Kerr   

jeankerr.jpgI am hoping by the time you next receive my monthly Editor’s Picks, I’ll be looking at bare ground instead of the ever-present snow. But in the meantime, here are a few of my favorite things. (Think  “schnitzel with noodles” . But “snowflakes that stay on my nose and eyelashes”. . .NOT.) Be sure to join us for Meet the Chefs at the Seacoast Home, Garden and Flower Show at the Whittemore Center in Durham on March 20-22! I’ll be doing a demo and signing copies of my newest book, Windjammer Cooking on Saturday the 21st at 3:15 pm.  Catch bestselling author and Taste columnist Kathy Gunst on Sunday the 22nd. Other area chefs include Norm Hebert of Bintliff’s in Ogunquit, Kittery chefs Craig Spinney of Robert’s Maine Grill and Chris Souter of Enoteca Italiana, Karl Mace of the Union Street Grill, David Masotta of the Three Chimneys Inn in Durham, and legendary local chef James Haller. Check the home show’s web site (and ours!) for the final line up.

Don’t miss a great time for a great cause on Friday, April 3rd at the gorgeous new Epoch restaurant at the Exeter Inn. The Friends of the Seacoast School of Technology Culinary Arts Program is hosting a benefit Gourmet Gala Dinner and Wine Tasting, complete with live music from a Celtic Harper- Regina Delaney, a silent auction (I’ll be donating a dinner for six—so go and bid high!) and live auction of rare wines and other goods and services.  This two year public high school culinary arts program fosters careers in all aspects of culinary arts, and Taste columnist Denise Landis chairs the program's advisory board.  Epoch’s world-class chef Steve Harding will treat guests to Grilled Hawaiian Blue Prawns with Roasted Shallot Infused Frisse, Passion Fruit Caviar and Chipotle Queso Blanco; Epoch (or epic!) trio of Filet Mignon followed by a Chocolate Hazelnut Beignet with Raspberry Infused Black Pearl “Caviar” and bold orange mascarpone. Wine is included with hors d'oeuvres and with each course of the meal.  For information and tickets, contact Bobbi Burns at 603-926-8824 or This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it .

Mary Ann Esposito joined me for lunch recently at Taste of India in Dover, New Hampshire and the chef brought out a dish of their rice pudding to tempt us after the meal. I don’t think of rice pudding as anything to write home about, but theirs is a delicate concoction that smells like flowers. We asked what was in it and he explained it was made with fragrant basmati rice, pistachios and rose water—among other things. I love all their food including their pappardums with two dipping sauces, one of which is an addictive cilantro yogurt blend. They are celebrating their 18th year in business, and the food is terrific. Stop in if you’re in the neighborhood.

Still working to reduce my layer of winter “insulation”, I picked up a copy of James Beard award-winning Moosewood Restaurant Low Fat Favorites. (I had my hand on a book that promised 500 fat free recipes but decided to draw the line at low fat.) I’m a long-time Moosewood fan and this 465 page volume offers hundreds of great, healthy, wholesome meals with the characteristic Moosewood flair. Sections include: Appetizers, Breakfast and Brunch, Bread and Sandwiches, Salads, Beans, Grains, Pasta, Other Main Dishes, Stews, Fish, Side Dishes, Dressings and Sauces, and Desserts. I couldn’t possibly narrow down favorites but Greek Spinach Rice Balls, Squash and Kale Risotto, Penne with Creamy Walnut Sauce, Fish Tagine with Chermoulla and Pumpkin Custard give you a peek at the huge number of creative recipes.

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February 2009 Editor's Picks
Written by Jean Kerr   

jeankerr.jpgI took a break from my Editor’s Picks last month. In this line of work, the holidays are great fun but after all the cooking, and sipping, and figuring out what to do with leftovers, I sometimes want to play hide and sleep (and fast!) like a hibernating bear.  But a big belated shout out of thanks to our incredible donors for our Salvation Army Xmas dinner—The Meat House for their unbelievable Prime Rib Roasts, Popovers for their desserts (complete with a gingerbread house) and Shaw’s supermarket for veggies. So now we can look forward to Valentine’s Day, and we hope to start a warming trend with our upcoming Winter/Spring  issue due out this month.

In spite of economic challenges, there are some incredible dining deals out there. Our savvy local restaurateurs are doing everything in their power to give us great value for our money! I recently mentioned Pesce Blue’s great $25 three course trattoria menu, and I just keep coming across great dining deals just about everywhere I turn. So I’ve added my Dining Deals and Steals to our monthly What’s Cookin’ newsletter. (Chefs and restaurateurs: got a deal going?  Let me know!)

Jean’s Deals and Steals
On Thursday nights, at family-owned Bintliff’s in Ogunquit, Maine, look for a choice of three entrees, a great salad, dessert, and a glass of wine for $17.50! I had a great moussaka, my husband had a fantastic seafood Newburg, and the portions were such that we brought home “doggie bags”.  (Our dogs never tasted a bite, and they’re still mad.) Great atmosphere with great service.

Although this would involve a long weekend trip for most of us in this area, Natalie’s, the Four Diamond Award winning bistro at the Camden Harbor Inn, which has superb food all year round, but from February 15th through the end of March, they are offering a Sunday night Viva la France! menu—three courses for $29.95. See my Editor’s Picks for more info.

The York Harbor Inn (in, um, York Harbor, Maine) offers happy hour chow far beyond the ordinary. I stopped in on a Monday night. The bartender pointed us to the duck and white bean casserole (a sort of ersatz Cassoulet) with garlic bread on the side.  Free!  No kidding. We shared their fantastic Heartsong Salad with thinly sliced pears, Heartsong Farms Goat cheese, almonds and peppery arugula as a second course. Look for special items like this, Monday to Friday from 4 to 6 pm, along with regular Happy Hour specials like fried haddock , Tuesday night Chef’s choice, Friday mac and cheese, and more.

An old fave of mine is Warren’s Lobster House in Kittery, Maine. This bustling family restaurant offers a dollar menu with the purchase of their all-you-can eat salad bar. It’s so retro, and I just love it. Where else can you get mustard pickles, spiced apple slices, and pickled baby Brussels sprouts on the salad bar? Although lobster prices have risen and a boiled lobster is no longer available for an extra buck, you can choose from their amply-portioned special entrée menu for the same price.

Stay tuned for an upcoming Taste email blast with the best bargain meals in the area.

Editor’s Picks
If a trip to Paris isn’t in the budget this year, treat yourself to an unbelievable weekend at the Camden Harbour Inn in the gorgeous seaside village of Camden, Maine. I love this place! Not only are the accommodations super stylish and luxurious, their Four Diamond restaurant, Natalie’s, is absolutely superb.  When I visited, my menu choices included Wild Damariscotta Oysters with Seaweed Brioche and traditional garnitures, a duo of lamb: Grilled Lamb Loin and a Persian Spiced Kabob with Sumac Red Onion Soubise. Other choices included a Seared Duck Breast with a Red Wine Braised Duck Leg Confit, Porcini Cannelloni and Sauce Salmis; Roasted Chatham Bay Cod with Herb Stuffed Cippollini Onion, Brandade Croquette, Caponata, and Chorizo Jus. I could go on, but their menu changes frequently so visit their web site for the regular menu, the chef’s tasting menus, as well as special events and offers. Their Paris Cordon Blue trained Chef Lawrence Clang is a major culinary talent and the service is professional, knowledgeable but relaxed and friendly as it should be in a coastal Maine Village. It’s a guaranteed winter pick me up. www.camdenharbourinn.com.

I first encountered Maine Sea Vegetables literature out at the Shoals Marine Lab on Appledore Island. I was curious and asked for some product samples.  (By sea vegetables, they mean seaweed.) They hand gather North American varieties like dulse, kelp, laver and sea lettuce which are low in sodium and rich in minerals and healthy trace elements. Among  the samples they sent were packets of dried seaweed that you could use like nori in things like miso soup and maki, but my favorites included their Kelp Krunch Sesame Bars (I know it sounds weird but trust me on this) their Sea Chips, a low sodium nacho style chip that is given its saltiness from natural mineral salts. And I loved their sea Salt with Sea vegetables. I used this in a stovetop clambake and it adds the certain something that cooking lobsters in ocean water adds. They’ve been around since 1971, are organically certified and a winner of a Socially Responsible Business Award. Check them out at www.seaveg.com.

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December 2008 Editor's Picks
Written by Jean Kerr   

jeankerr.jpgDecember can be a crazy month for foodies, what with parties, festive meals and visiting friends and family. But here at Taste, we love the holidays and hope you’ll find time to relax and enjoy them. Here are a few great—and economical ways to celebrate the season! In our recent reader survey you asked for more recipes, so we’re featuring more each month to help you create new taste sensations!

All of us at Taste wish you healthy, happy and peaceful holidays!
 
Whether for entertaining or gift giving, check out the new line of Organic Products from Lollipop Tree. I tried the new bread mixes and they are terrific. Although the instructions call for a stand mixer with a bread hook attachment, I made the yeast risen Asiago Tomato Bread by hand and it was just fine, (which means they are very forgiving mixes as I am not a baker.) Many of the mixes can also be made as quick breads by adding beer or seltzer. The company, in addition to being Rainforest Alliance Certified, environmentally friendly, and socially responsible, they have become involved in Heifer International, an organization that seeks to provide a better live for girls and women in underdeveloped countries through education, nutritional awareness and through teaching sustainable farming practices. So their products are not only good, they are doing good things for people as well. www.lollipoptree.com.

Pesce Blue owner Cliffe Arrand and Chef James Walter have come up with a new weekly Trattoria Menu for $25! Just twenty five bucks for three typically terrific Pesce Blue courses! Last week’s menu included a first course of  Leek & Lobster Soup finished with basil oil, a main course of Prosciutto wrapped Bistro Steak with rosemary roasted cannelini beans and braised cavalo nero, and last but not least, their Chocolate Beet Cake with orange marmalata. You just can’t beat that. And don’t forget their Christmas Eve tradition—the Feast of Seven Fishes--a four course meal featuring local fish and shellfish for only $55. www.pesceblue.com or call 603-430-7766.

gingerbreadhouse.jpgOn December 13th and 14th, the Country Inns of the White Mountains will hold their 12th Annual Inn to Inn Holiday Cookie and Candy Tour® held from 11 am to 4 pm each day. Each of the fifteen lovely inns on the tour will feature original holiday cookies and recipes to take home, along with exquisite holiday decorations. The participating inns have developed original recipes for everything from sweet to savory holiday treats, with each inn featuring new recipes for this year’s tour.  Guests who visit all 16 properties will receive a keepsake brass ornament. The Inns will continue their Gingerbread House Display. I did the tour last year and loved these wonderful creations! Local businesses are recruited to create gingerbread sculptures in honor of their favorite non-profit organization and each year the results are amazing. Participating businesses will either create these sculptures in- house, or recruit artists, school groups, chefs or bakers to construct their gingerbread sculpture for the contest.  Tour goers will then vote for their favorite, and the winning sculptures will receive $500, $350 or $250 donations for the non-profit organization they represent. So it’s not only fun, and delicious, it’s for a good cause! www.countryinnsinthewhitemountains.com/holiday_cookie_tour.htm

On December 20th, from 9am to 2 pm, Atlantic Culinary Academy in Dover will host their Holiday Farmer’s Market, with all kinds of locally grown and produced products. Every dollar you spend on locally produced food and other items benefits our local economy and helps to create a more sustainable environment. Their pre-Thanksgiving market was a big success—let’s help make this one a success too!

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November 2008 Editor's Picks
Written by Jean Kerr   

jeankerr.jpgI had a great time at Harvest on the Harbor in Portland, Maine where chefs and authors gathered to do cooking demonstrations and book signings. I did a Butter Poached Stovetop Clambake for my demo, making great use of local lobster which is a terrific bargain these days. See the featured recipe this month.

I discovered the eponymous Sweet Marguerites chocolates, a small artisanal chocolatier based in Portland. Their Café au Lait, Coco Rhum, Fleur de Sel Caramels, Ginger Crunch and Irish Crème Mouse had my eyes rolling back in my head. Marguerite has a culinary arts degree and has trained with chocolatiers from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY and Ecole Chocolate in Oregon. Visit www.sweetmargchocolates.com.

A great new book just crossed my desk: Urban Italian: Simple Recipes & True Stories from a Life in Food, by Andrew Carmellini with Gwen Hyman (Bloomsbury, hardcover, $35.00.) This lavishly illustrated volume has not only great food shots, but great photos of technique: like how to make gnocchi and tortelloni. Carmellini was named James Beard Best New Chef New York in 2004. The book comes recommended by the Gourmet Book Club, Anthony Bourdain and Tom Colicchio to name a few.

That’s all for this month. Gotta go pack. . .we’re setting sail for our Taste of the Mediterranean about Regent Seven Seas cruise line with  Michele Duval, Wine Director for the Wentworth by the Sea and Chef Jonathan Cartwright of the White Barn Inn. Thanks to Kathy Burns Lamphier of POSH Travel in Greenland, New Hampshire for making this all happen!

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October 2008 Editor's Picks
Written by Jean Kerr   

jeankerr.jpgFall is the time for food and wine festivals of all stripes—from the Prescott Park Chili Cook off which took place on Saturday, October 4, to the 2008 Maine Oysterfest which will be held on October 12th at the Union Bluff hotel in York Beach, Maine.

The Maine Oysterfest features great oysters on the half shell, an oyster luge (you gotta see this), the Chef of the Year Award, and an oyster shucking contest-- all of which I get to judge along with three other celebrity judges, Rachel Forrest, Seacoast Media’s Food Editor and guru, Rowan Jacobsen who writes about food, the environment, and the intersection of the two. He is the author of A Geography of Oysters, for which he spent a year traveling the country and sampling its oysters. Fiona Robinson is the Editor-in-chief of Seafood Business Magazine, the largest seafood publication in the world. Both Rowan and I will be doing book signings at the event.

Harvest on the Harbor (read all about it in our newsflash section) is coming up on October 24-26 at the Ocean gateway Pier in Portland, Maine. Too many great things to do to list here, so refer to our News Flash and check their web site www.harvestontheharbor.com. I’ll be doing a cooking demo and a book signing, as will local favorites Kathy Gunst, Patty Roche of Stonewall Kitchens Cooking School and more. Don’t miss it--it’s going to be a blast!

I was in Mystic Seaport this summer for a cooking demo and book signing at the Seaport’s 1st Annual Food and Wine Festival and tasted wines from southern Connecticut’s Chamard Vineyards. I have to say I didn’t expect the kind of quality I tasted. I fell in love with their Stone Cold White, an unoaked chardonnay with lovely, light mouth feel, nicely balanced acidity, and refreshing citrus notes. Absolutely wonderful with seafood—which of course I was eating (as usual). I also loved their rose—fruity but dry like nice French ones--and their more traditional oaked chardonnays. With only a total of 20 acres, they are small producers and their wines tend to sell out rather quickly. Visit the vineyard at www.chamard.com.

What is it about football season that makes me think of Mexican food? My Sunday afternoon fix got an upgrade after reading through Mod Mex, Cooking Vibrant Fiesta Flavors at Home by Scott Linquist and Joanna Pruess. (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2007, hardcover, 24.95. This lavishly illustrated volume demonstrates a knowledge and respect for the cuisine, with great tips on traditions, techniques and ingredients. You’ll have a new appreciation for Mexican cooking after trying things like Chipotle and Tamarind-Glazed Pork Chops with Apple Pico de Gallo, Cazuela de Tinga or Roasted Chicken in Poblano-Style Sweet and Spicy Tomato Sauce, and Apple and Sweet Cheese Empanadas. ¿Cómo bueno es eso?

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September's Editor's Note
Written by Jean Kerr   

jeankerr.jpgFrom the Editor..

We are so excited about our upcoming Mediterranean cruise! We depart  from Monte Carlo on November 5th and end in Rome on November 15, with stops in Marseille, Barcelona, Valencia, Majorca, Corsica, Livorno and among others. In each port of call, we'll be able to explore all the great food and wine that each region is known for. And the award winning chefs aboard the Regent Seven Seas Voyager will be treating us to the finest cuisine afloat as we make our way through the Med. To find out more about this cruise of a lifetime, contact POSH Travel 603-436-4110.

Look for a special announcement in the next few days with details on our culinary programs and events! We hope you can join us!

Jean

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August 2008 Editor's Picks
Written by Jean Kerr   

psullivan.jpg

Taste Editor Jean Kerr is on vacation this month and our Culinary Editor, Paula Sullivan offers some of her favorite things. 

I’m not a vegetarian, nor do I play one on TV, but I still love the healthy, organic, and absolutely delicious offerings at Madeleine’s Truly Organic Kitchen, located in the Portsmouth Health Food store in Portsmouth, NH.  One of my favorite items is the sesame-marinated tofu.  Packaged in 4-oz packages (about 1 cup), each tofu morsel has a roasty, meaty, almost bacony flavor.  The bite-sized portioning makes it a great finger food—I challenge you not to eat a few bites in the car on the way home—or you can add it to your favorite stir-fry, salad, or noodle dish.  Another great snack item is the chocolate pudding, which is 100 percent vegan, gluten free, and sugar free (sweetened with agave nectar). In spite of its healthful qualities, it has the most decadent, creamy texture and a rich chocolaty flavor.  And for those food lovers on the go who crave a day of healthy eating, Madeleine’s offers a completely organic salad bar, as well as a fresh juice bar complete with organic wheat grass shots.

Of course, we don’t always want to abstain from our vices, so thank goodness for Local Wine-and-Cheese Shops.  I recently popped into Ceres Wine Merchants for some help picking out a wine to bring to an impromptu summer get-together where I didn’t know the menu or whether to bring red or white.  I was also on a budget, so owner Dave Campbell steered me to the 2007 Crios de Susana Balbo Rose of Malbec, at $14.98 per bottle.  I bought three bottles and it worked beautifully throughout the meal.  We sipped it with a simple appetizer of d’Affinois cheese, fresh raspberries, and rose petal jam on slices of fresh baguette, then kept on sipping as we feasted on a summer salad (with cucumbers, avocado, tomatoes, red bell peppers, and creamy blue cheese) and cilantro-rubbed grilled salmon (see recipe in Recipe section of website). We didn’t even need dessert.  We just kept sipping that delicious wine.
 
We also have an impressive selection of ethnic restaurants here in the seacoast region—Chinese, Mexican, Indian, Greek, Japanese, Thai, and more—but one of the most surprising and fun places to experience the food of another culture is at Jamaican Jerk Center (JJC), located almost off the radar on U.S. Route 1 between York and Ogunquit. Try the spicy curried goat, the ackee and salt fish, or the jerk chicken.  The chicken is rubbed with jerk spices, then smoked, grilled, and served bone-in with a generous dousing of jerk sauce.  Beef, chicken or vegetable patties are actually flakey turnovers stuffed with mildly spiced fillings—something akin to the sambosas you find in West African cuisine (which are something akin to the samosas you find in Indian cuisine).  A nice selection of fruit sodas and other exotic beverages are available to tame the spices, and the reggae group Conscious Band plays live every Saturday night until Labor Day.  1400 U.S. Route 1, Ogunquit, ME/ 207-351-3003/ This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it .

Secrets of the Red Lantern: stories and Vietnamese recipes from the heart, by Pauline Nguyen with recipes by Luke Nguyen and Mark Jensen (hardcover, 343 pages, $44.00) is a new cookbook from the owners of the Red Lantern, a Vietnamese restaurant in Surry Hills Australia.  Part memoir, part history book, and part recipe collection, it’s a book you’ll want to read from cover to cover, like a novel.  Chapters like skin, bones, and the basics, and my mother and her mother, take you through the author Nguyen’s life, starting with her family’s escape from post-war Saigon, through their resettlement in Australia, and right up to Nguyen’s current role as co-proprietor of the Red Lantern with brother Luke Nguyen and partner Mark Jensen.  You’ll learn of the Vietnamese concept of a “Master Stock”, which is a stock that is never completely depleted, but rather supplemented continually (about every third use) by replacing the water and adding salt, soy sauce and spices.  Recipes like Bitter Melon Stuffed with Pork and Black Fungus, and Crispy Skin Master Stock Chicken sound complicated, but instructions are simple and straightforward.

 

 

 

 

 

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