“Can’t we have a normal barbecue like other people do?” my husband Andrew pleaded with me one Saturday evening.

“But I’m leaving all the meats, sauces, and side dishes up to you dear,” I declared with wide-eyed innocence. “I just thought we could try different wines with different dishes.”

Andrew looked hopelessly at the twenty-four bottles of wine lined up along the kitchen counter and went out to fire up the grill.

I knew he’d come around once we got into the tasting. To me, this was an excellent opportunity to find the “Ultimate Barbecue Wine.” That’s a contradiction for many drinkers since barbecue wines are generally ranked just above cooking wines. (Granted, many seem better suited to dousing the flames than to drinking.)

Most people think of monster reds for a barbecue, but zesty white wines are often good starters when folks are sitting and chatting or wandering around the back yard as they wait for the meat to cook. These wines get the juices flowing and have a pleasant cooling effect, much like the water sprinkler. They’re aromatic enough to compete with smoke, sunscreen, and summer breezes. And they all complement salads, starters, seafood, and grilled veggies. My favorites were Oyster Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($16); J.J. Prum 2001 Riesling Kabinett, Germany ($18); and Torres 2002 Vina Esmeralda, a blend of Gewürztraminer and Moscatel, Penedes, Spain ($15). And don’t forget a glass for the barbecue slave. I could see that Andrew was starting to soften as he silently accepted a glass of Vina Esmeralda.

Champagne and sparkling wine are conversational firelighters because they deliver alcohol to the bloodstream quickly. They also go well with a lot of barbecue fare: like beer, they cleanse the palate and have the acidity to match ketchup and barbecue sauces. And if the gathering is to mark a graduation, anniversary, or birthday, there’s nothing more celebratory than bubbly. From France, try Veuve Clicquot Non-Vintage Brut Yellow Label ($40), Piper Heidsieck Non-Vintage Brut Cuvee ($40), or the Californian sparkler, Roederer Estate Non-Vintage Brut ($24).

Some wines are best reserved for indoor dinners. Bringing out your well-cellared Bordeaux and Burgundy for the hamburgers and steaks is like wearing your tuxedo in the back yard: not only would you be a social misfit, but it’s also just wasted effort. Mature, elegant wines go down in flames next to the grill; their flavors are overwhelmed.

Instead, go for wines with loads of ripe fruit, some spiciness, and a touch of acidity. Good choices are northern Italian reds such as Michele Chiarlo 2001 Barbera d’Asti ($10) and Dievole 2000 Chianti Classico ($14); or French reds from the northern Rhone Valley such as Louis Bernard 2000 Cote du Rhone Villages ($11) and Perrin 2001 Reserve Cote du Rhone Rouge ($16). These wines have the mouth-watering juiciness that go well with charred meat, but not too much tannin, which would accentuate any dry taste. Chilling the wines slightly made them taste even better under the June sun. Notebook in hand, I asked my husband whether he’d liked the Italian or Rhone wine better with hot dogs. Andrew said he preferred not to eat hot dogs.

As we tasted (and spit) our way through the bottles (at least, I think Andrew was spitting), it dawned on me that the two countries best known for barbecue food—America and Australia—also make great barbecue wines. Coincidence?

I think not. American Zinfandel and Australian Shiraz are both dense, chewy wines with berry flavors that would obliterate more refined dishes but complement intense, smoky flavors. And the bonus is that if you have any left over, you can re-stain the deck with it. For Zinfandel, try Cline 2001 ($13), Beringer 1998 Founder’s Estate ($14), and Rosenblum 1999 Oakley Vineyards ($17). For Shiraz, consider Yalumba 2001 Y Series ($11), Rosemount 2002 Diamond ($13), and Penfolds 2001 Thomas Hyland Shiraz ($16).

By now Andrew was well-marinated himself, happily commenting on the wines and the grand success of our experiment. The sun had crept below the tree line, the embers blinked sleepily in the grill, and we sat back in our chairs, chatting softly. Our mood was so mellow that only port would suit it. Tawny Ports, with their nutty, caramelized flavors, won over the more austere and structured vintage Ports. We particularly enjoyed Fonseca Non-Vintage Tawny ($14) and Dow’s Ten Year Old Tawny ($30).

Riding our wave of contentment, I suggested a picnic by the river tomorrow evening. Andrew looked over at me and asked, “Do you mean a normal picnic?”

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