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Written by Crystal Ward Kent
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November 11, 2009 |
 Taste visits some classic ice cream shops and stands.
*Location Photography by Tara Lenharth
Perhaps no other food captures the flavor of summer better than ice cream. Cool, creamy, melting on your tongue, it is the essence of sun-splashed days and fun in the sun. Americans consume more than 6 billion gallons of ice cream each year and in this area, there is no shortage of tempting venues.
Brown’s Ice Cream
Starting in Maine, head to Brown’s, now celebrating its 42nd year. Located right next to the famous Cape Neddick Lighthouse (known to all locals as Nubble Light), Brown’s serves up a fantastic oceanside view along with fabulous ice cream. The Brown family began the operation in 1967 and still own the property, which has been leased by Steve Dunne and his wife, Phyllis Fox for the past 17 years. The couple also owns Fox’s Lobster House, right nearby.
“We haven’t changed anything,” says Dunne. “I think our success is due to keeping consistent quality, and the location. We are literally built right into the rocks by the lighthouse.
Brown’s offers more than 50 flavors, but occasionally has up to 75. Dunne says the most popular flavor remains vanilla, but says cookie dough and a flavor they created, called “Maine Survivor,” run close seconds.
“Our cookie dough has real homemade cookie dough in it,” he says. “Maine Survivor is based on the television show ‘Survivor’ and has bits of chocolate chip cookie, heath bar, and Reese’s peanut butter cups.”
Brown’s still offers all the old fashioned New England favorites, and says regulars come for miles to enjoy classics such as checkerberry, rum raisin, and frozen pudding. “A lot of places don’t serve these any more,” he explains. “But we’ve kept with them and they have a real following. In the 1960s, when Mr. Brown built this place, the site was covered with checkerberry bushes so he made ice cream with them. They have a wintergreen flavor and the ice cream is a vivid pink.”
Brown’s is known for some special creations, including their hot fudge sundae delight, which features three flavors of ice cream plus homemade brownies made by Fox and brought over fresh each day. Also popular is the Strawberry Shortcake Sundae, which includes Fox’s homemade shortcake, and the Banana Bucket for those capable of huge feats of ice cream eating.
“Most folks can’t eat it all,” smiles Dunne. “It’s three flavors of ice cream, plus strawberry, hot fudge and pineapple toppings, bananas, whipped cream or marshmallow, plus nuts or similar topping. The one garnish I don’t serve is jimmies—good ice cream doesn’t need jimmies!”
Brown’s is open from the first weekend in May through Columbus Day. For more information, call (207) 363-1277.
 Annabelle’s Ice Cream
In Portsmouth, New Hampshire, head downtown for two of the city’s oldest purveyors of ice cream and frozen yogurt. First stop, Annebelle’s at 49 Ceres Street, where a charming sign depicts a black-and-white cow and a little girl enjoying a cone. Annabelle is the cow in the logo, not the little girl. In the ice cream world, cows have major status, and Annabelle is a nod to those queens of the dairy.
This cozy shop sits diagonally across from where the tugboats tie up, and the inside is classic ice cream parlor, with tiny tables, wrought iron chairs, and a checkerboard floor. Dozens of flavors are listed on a huge chalkboard behind the counter, and visitors can either sit and unwind or stroll the waterfront streets. Annabelle’s opened in 1982, under original owner Alex David. When asked what makes Annabelle’s special, manager Richard Peyser doesn’t hesitate. “Our ice cream is all natural; there are no additives, artificial colors or flavors,” he says. “It’s all fresh cream, whole and skim milk, cane sugar, and egg yolks. It’s also 16 percent butter fat, whereas most ice creams are only 10 to 14 percent. And there is very little injected air in the package—only 40 percent. By law, ice cream makers can inject up to 80 percent or higher. So, our ice cream is dense, super premium ice cream, and it’s also kosher.”
Annabelle’s offers more than 30 flavors, but the number one seller once again is vanilla. Running too close to call for second and third are Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Monster, and Coffee espresso. In summer, Annabelle’s creates special flavors such as Peachy Peach, ginger, and coconut, while fall will see pumpkin and cinnamon up on the board. Lines out the door are not uncommon. When asked how much ice cream they sell, Peyser smiles, “A lot.”
According to Peyser, Annabelle’s tries to make everything the “best way possible.” “We make our own hot fudge and our own whipped cream,” he explains. “It costs a bit more, but you can taste the difference and customers notice.”
Among the specialty offerings are the Walking Sundae, which features a waffle bowl filled with one or two scoops of ice cream, hot fudge topping, whipped cream, and another topping of your choice. The whole creation is placed inside a paper bowl for easy transport. Annabelle’s also serves up waffle cones dipped in chocolate, and in fall, the famous Hot Apple Cinnamon Sundae. This concoction features apples, caramel sauce and whipped cream, served warm on top of vanilla or cinnamon ice cream, or choose a scoop of each.
The little shop in Portsmouth is open year-round, but closed when it snows. Days in the ice cream business can be long, but Peyser says he wouldn’t want to be anywhere else.
“It’s a happy business,” he says. “People who come in here are generally in a good mood. They’re out with family and friends and they’ve come for a treat. Or if they’re not happy when they come in, they are once they get their ice cream. Ice cream does that—everyone leaves smiling.”
 Izzy’s Frozen Yogurt
Just around the corner from Annabelle’s, at the corner of Ceres Street and Bow Street in Portsmouth, is another popular fixture, Izzy’s Frozen Yogurt. Founded by long-time owner Beth Gilbert in 1981, Izzy’s is a bright, sunny place, with a whimsical atmosphere. The black-and-white checkerboard floors are a classic counterpoint to the peach and purple walls, while little round tables are partnered with pink and purple chairs. According to Gilbert, there is no Izzy, “Izzy’s is a state of mind,” she laughs. “It’s all about having fun.”
Although the place is small, Izzy’s offers an abundance of flavors and treats, in keeping with Gilbert’s philosophy of providing healthy alternatives without scrimping on flavorful choices. “I wanted a place where even folks on a restricted diet could find a variety and not feel excluded,” she says. “Here you have choices.” Izzy’s offers ice cream, frozen low-fat yogurt, and non-fat soft serve frozen yogurt; she also serves lots of coffees and teas.
Among the best selling ice cream flavors are the classics—vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry, although in the fall pumpkin has been known to take the lead. Yogurt flavors that are all the rage are Mint Patty and Chocolate Peanut Butter, while the soft serve crowd likes the chocolate/vanilla twist.
Gilbert also whips up some pretty cool specialty items, including the All American High Fat Sundae and the World Famous Low-Fat Sundae. For those looking to indulge (and who isn’t?), the All American is a classic sundae with three scoops of ice cream, hot fudge sauce, whipped cream, a cherry and nuts. Those feeling virtuous can opt for the Low-Fat version, which features non-fat soft serve and non-fat sugar-free hot fudge sauce. By far, her guests favorite creations are the Hot Brownie Sundae (like the classic, but with chunks of warm brownie), and the Dizzy Izzy, which is a twirl of soft serve with your choice of topping whipped in. Among the tempting choices are More than Reeses, which is a swirl of chocolate peanut butter candies; White Chocolate, with chunks of white chocolate and bits of white chocolate macadamia nut cookie, and Coffee Brownie with coffee syrup and brownie pieces, or a fruit blend of strawberry and banana.
Mom’s (and dieters) like Izzy’s because truly modest serving sizes are available. “We have a golf ball size that is the size of an actual golf ball,” says Gilbert, holding up a cone with a golf ball plopped inside. “If you want just a taste, you can have that. Our junior size is a true junior, just right for kids.”
In her 30 years in business, Gilbert has seen many repeat customers, and she loves being part of family traditions. “I’ve watched kids grow up coming into my shop,” she smiles. “They come in for birthdays and celebrations, or regular Sunday outings. I love sharing these special parts of their lives. I get stories all the time; guests tell me how their grandmother brought them here whenever they visited, or how all they could eat was my yogurt when they were pregnant.”
Izzy’s opens in April, and stays open until late October when the shop goes to weekends only. From then on, the schedule follows the weather. As Gilbert says, “I’m open until Christmas, or the first snowfall, whichever comes first!”
Lago’s Lone Oak
On any summer night, head south on Route 1 to Rye, New Hampshire and stop when you see the lines of cars. Chances are you’ll have found Lago’s Lone Oak. The 1950’s-style drive-in has been an ice cream hot spot since 1957, although six owners have operated the venue in the years since. It became Lago’s Lone Oak, a sister shop to the Lone Oak in Rochester, New Hampshire, in 1980. Carol and Mike Lago (owners of Lago’s Dairy) ran the eatery until the mid-1980’s when “the cone was passed” to their daughter and her husband, Andrea and Steve Grenier.
Steve Grenier attributes their tremendous popularity to four factors: “We have a quality product and we give great value for your money,” he says. “We also have lots of fun flavors—over the years, we’ve created 65 flavors—and a good crew. Our staff is a team and they are fun to be around. People feel that when they come here.”
Among the Lone Oak’s best selling flavors are Cookie Dough, and several of their own creations, including Kahlua Fudge Brownie (voted New England’s Best Ice Cream by WBZ Channel 4), Peanut Butter Cup (peanut butter ice cream swirled with fudge and chunks of Reese’s peanut butter cups), and Cappuccino Slam, which is cappucino ice cream with a fudge/hazelnut swirl. Kids line up for Cookie Monster (named for the Sesame Street character) a blue-colored vanilla ice cream stuffed with Oreos, animal crackers, and Chips’ Ahoy cookies.
Grenier is quick to point out that, yes, he goes through lots of vanilla ice cream but the flavor by itself is not a number one seller. “That’s a bit misleading,” he claims. “Vanilla is used a lot because it’s in so many other things—banana splits, hot fudge sundaes, and lots of frappes, but vanilla alone in a cone is not one of the favorites.”
The Lone Oak is known for their own rich ice cream—fourteen percent butter fat—and generous portions. “Giving the customer good value for their money is of direct benefit to us,” says Grenier. “Customers know they get big, healthy scoops here and that brings them back. And they offer all the classic favorites: sundaes, milk shakes, frappes, banana splits, and a few unique inventions, such as the Polar Joe. “The Polar Joe is any flavor of ice cream you like blended with iced coffee,” explains Grenier. “It’s not as heavy as a frappe and it’s mighty cooling.”
Coming up with new flavors is a favorite pasttime among staff and guests, and many of the new taste sensations are created by the teenagers who work there. Among these are the Muddy Moose, an insane blend of kahlua and chocolate ice cream filled with brownies, cookie dough chunks, and chocolate chips; Muddy Sneakers, which is white chocolate ice cream swirled with caramel and sprinkled with chocolate chips, and Black Raspberry Oreo, a dark temptation of black raspberry ice cream with Oreo chunks.
Not surprisingly, the Lone Oak receives a lot of repeat business, although a few fans demonstrate extreme devotion. “We have one fellow who comes every night,” says Grenier. “He’ll buy one flavor and ask for a taste of another. Then the next night, he buys that flavor. And he’s in great shape. He evidently works out to make up for the ice cream. Another customer stops in every day and brings home two chocolate frappes.”
The Lone Oak opens on April 15, tax day, each year, and closes the first of October. “We like to open on tax day to cheer folks up,” laughs Grenier. For more information, call (603) 964-9880 or visit www.lagosicecream.com.
 The Ice House
Also in Rye, but at the other end, on the New Castle line, is the Ice House on Route 1B. The Ice House has also been an ice cream “hot spot” for decades. It was first called Obie’s, then Bartletts, but for the past 29 years has been known as the Ice House and owned by Keith and Kathy Malinowski. Their daughter, Meghan Bishop, grew up working there, and is still a regular employee.
“The Ice House is special because it feels like family when you come here,” she explains. “Our staff is like family to us, and I think that bond comes across. We have many loyal customers, some who come every day. In fact, if some of our regulars don’t show, we call to see if they are okay—it’s that kind of relationship.”
The Ice House is also a restaurant, serving burgers, clams, and other classic summer drive-in food, but with ice cream this good, eating dessert first seems the way to go. The bulk of the Ice House’s business is repeat customers, according to Bishop.
Around 40 different flavors are scooped up at the Ice House each season, with the clear favorites being Moose Tracks and Death by Chocolate, a decadent concoction of dark chocolate ice cream swirled with fudge brownie chunks, and milk chocolate and dark chocolate chips. (What a way to go!) Bishop says they stick to old-time classics, such as butter pecan, maple walnut, grapenut pudding, and fudge walnut.
Specialty items include the Double Jeopardy, an extra thick frappe with a sundae on top. “My parents came up with it,” marvels Bishop. “I don’t even know how people can eat it—it’s a meal. The ice cream scoops float on top of the frappe, and on top of those are all the sundae toppings.” Not to be outdone, the staff came up with The Kitchen Sink, which is a sundae with strawberry, fudge and pineapple toppings, plus nuts, marshmallows, jimmies and whipped cream. It’s served with two huge scoops of ice cream, any flavor.
The Ice House is open April through October, from 11:00 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. They are closed Monday and Tuesday when school is in session, and closed Mondays only in the summer. For more information, visit www.theicehouserestaurant.com , or call (603) 431-3086.
Sugar & Ice Creamery
Over in Barrington, New Hampshire, locals line up at the Sugar and Ice Creamery on Route 125. A charming yellow cottage in a farm-style setting, the Creamery is known for European style ice cream, with rich flavors and only the finest ingredients. Owner Uli Emmerling hails from Germany, where, as a child, she worked in her uncle’s ice cream shop. “Of course, I tasted everything! It seemed like a wonderful business to have.”
At the Creamery, everything is homemade, from the hot fudge sauce to the waffle cones and the whipped cream. Ice cream is made daily, one batch at a time, and Emmerling uses a European ice cream machine. “It has different beaters, different timing, and creates a unique texture, less dense and more creamy.”
The Creamery has a wide range of flavors, but what sets them apart is the Belgian chocolate they use, and the vanilla is made with a natural extract from a company that specializes in vanilla. The result is a richly different taste. This commitment to natural quality carries over into every flavor. The pistachio is white, since no artificial colors are added, and filled with chunks of real pistachio nuts. Pistachio is a best seller, along with maple walnut, chocolate chip, white mint chocolate chip, and bing cherry which features pieces of cherry mixed with white chocolate chips and a bit of fudge in a real cherry-based ice cream. In the fall, special favorites such as apple crisp, pumpkin and eggnog make their debut.
As if the cones weren’t temptation enough, the Creamery also offers old-fashioned ice cream sodas, homemade waffle cones, waffle sundaes and Frisbee sundaes, actual plastic Frisbees filled with scoops of ice cream and toppings. The waffle sundaes are two plump, fresh-baked Belgian waffles mounded with ice cream and toppings. Ice cream cakes in a range of flavors, designs and toppings are also popular. Cakes must be special ordered as she makes them on request. She also offers a special yellow cake batter ice cream cake that is always in demand. The cakes, like all of the Creamery’s ice cream, are deep frozen for 24 hours to reduce crystallization and give the ice cream its creamy texture.
Die-hard ice cream lovers will be thrilled to know that the Creamery offers make-your-own ice cream parties, and ice cream catering.
The Sugar & Ice Creamery is open from early May until late October. To learn more, call (603) 335-1140, or visit www.iscreamforicecream.net .
A Melt-In-Your Mouth Glossary of Cool Treats
Gelatos
Gelato is Italian for ice cream. Gelatos don’t contain as much air as American ice cream so the texture is denser, often creating a richer dessert. An Italian ice cream parlor is called a “gelateria.”
Sorbets
“Sorbet” is French for sherbet (which the Italians call “sorbetto”), but true sorbets never contain milk, unlike our American sherbets. Sorbets are also typically of a softer consistency than sherbets, having a more melting quality. Sorbets come in a wide range of flavors, either savory or sweet, and may be served for dessert, or to refresh the palate between courses. They may also be called “ices” or “granitas,” though both of these mixtures tend to be more granular in texture.
Sherbets
Sherbets exotic origins go back to a Middle Eastern drink called charbet, which was made of sweetened fruit juice and water. Today, the term sherbet commonly refers to a frozen mixture of sweetened fruit juice (or other liquid such as wine) and water. Sherbet can also contain milk, egg whites and/or gelatin. Sherbet is usually lighter than ice cream but richer than an ice.
Ices
An ice is a frozen mixture of water, sugar and liquid flavoring such as fruit juice, wine or coffee. The proportion is usually four parts liquid to one part sugar. During the freezing process, ices are generally stirred frequently to produce a slightly granular final texture. Ices are very popular in Italy and France, where they are called “granita” and “granite” respectively.
Soft Serve
Okay, maybe soft serve doesn’t have the same culinary background as the other items, but we Americans consume this in gallons, too. A plain vanilla soft serve is lighter in calories than ice cream, but few choose soft serve in this humble form. Specialty creations such as “Blizzards” swirl a basic flavor with candies, cookies, fruit, pieces of cheesecake and pie, and much more. Finally, yes, there are soft serve sundaes, banana splits, and parfaits—all guaranteed to completely kill those low calorie benefits!
Here’s the Scoop:
• The average American eats around 45 pints (5.63 gallons) of ice cream per year, more than any other nationality.
• In 1984, President Reagan declared July “National Ice Cream Month.” July is also the leading month for ice cream sales.
• The top five ice cream flavors in the United States are vanilla, chocolate, vanilla/chocolate, fruit, and cookies and cream.
• The biggest sundae ever made was in Alberta, Canada in 1988, and it weighed over 24 tons.
• More ice cream is sold on Sunday than any other day.
Crystal Ward Kent is Contributing Editor to Taste magazine and has written for Taste since its inception. She is a frequent contributor to numerous regional magazines, including Yankee, Accent, and New Hampshire Home.
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Last Updated on November 11, 2009 |
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