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 Many serious wine enthusiasts I know prefer drinking red wine all year, so when temperatures start dipping, there’s no doubt that they are looking for a real powerhouse. A fine place to begin your search is the Piedmont region of Italy.
Piedmont is the largest region on the Italian mainland but produces the least amount of wine. What is produced is amazing; excellent for collectors because many require aging. My favorite, and much loved by everyone, is Barolo. Barolo is known as the “wine of kings and king of wine.” They are truly some of the finest red wines in Italy, perhaps even the world. Barolo is a Classified DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), which represents the highest level of quality in Italian wines, and with its geography so close to Burgundy, France, it is no surprise.
To appreciate Barolo, you must first understand the region, the growing conditions, and the Nebbiolo grape. Piedmont (which means “foot of the mountains”) is close to the Alps—surrounding the wine-growing areas on three sides, amidst the steep rolling hills. In the southwest area of Piedmont, you will find Alba, located on the Langhe hillsides next to several tiny villages—one with the name Barolo. This is the area where the Nebbiolo grape grows with intensity—in fact, Piedmont is the only region that the Nebbiolo grape excels, showing an expression of the terroir that makes the wine so special.
The Nebbiolo grape (nebbia meaning “fog”) that produces Barolo is very challenging to grow, but surprisingly does exceptionally well planted in Piedmont where the climate conditions include very cool damp winters, followed by long hot summers. Needing lots of sunshine, Nebbiolo is harvested late in the season. This creates wines that have high acid and strong tannins–two of the desired characteristics of Barolo.
After harvesting, Barolo must be aged for three years in the barrel and bottle before being released (by DOCG law) and four years for Barolo reserve. Barolo is a well-balanced, rich, robust, full-bodied, and elegant red wine—defined as a “powerhouse.” The wines can be hard to find and pricey, but well worth the search and cost.
Barolo needs to be served with food. Piedmont is known for fabulous food, and its local food products are equally superlative with this wine—complementing one another with their styles and distinctiveness. This is the region where white truffles are found and some of the best chocolate in the world is produced—both are wonderful matches with Barolo.
For main dishes, the best pairings are the heartier meals, menus enjoyed in late fall and winter. There is nothing better than a glass (or bottle) of Barolo served with lamb stew, steak, pork, or polenta with sausages—also pasta and risotto with meat.
My choices for top Barolo producers are: Ascheri, Ceretto, Fontanafredda, Gaja, Luigi Baudana, Pio Cesare, Prunotto and Renato Ratti.
In addition to Barolo, the Nebbiolo grape is also used to make Barbaresco, Gattinara, and Nebbiolo (on its own). Other grape varietals and wines found in Piedmont are Dolcetto, Barbera, and Verduno Pelaverga—all priced less and are lighter, making them appealing everyday wines.
 Although, Piedmont is highly respected for its rich reds, it is also an excellent region for whites—Spumante (the famous Asti is here), Arneis, and Moscato—a sweet dessert wine. The region is a great destination for exploring these wines. Consider visiting the city of Torino for a few days, then head in to wine country. Be sure to visit Alba, Asti, Barolo, Barberesco, Bra (home of the Slow Food movement), La Morra, Saluzzo, and Serralunga—to name just a few. Piedmont is a great location!
Speaking of location, the new Mandarin Oriental is located in the historic Back Bay of Boston, next to the Prudential Center at 776 Boylston Street. The Mandarin Oriental features 148 rooms—all oversized, including twelve suites, a 16,000-square-foot fully equipped luxurious state of the art spa and fitness center, and a signature restaurant—Asana and M Bar & Lounge.
The hotel offers four departments that serve wine and food—each offering different selections of wines with forty or more selections, ranging from $35 to $3,000. At M Bar, there is a great selection of wine by the glass. At Asana, French Chef Nicholas Boutin matches wines that pair well with his “refined American and authentic Asian dishes.” The dishes (referred to as journeys) feature local New England herbs and ingredients.
The hotel’s list consists of wines from all over the world, many from Italy, France, and the United States. There are fine wines associated with Piedmont; particularly wines made from Nebbiolo but grown in the region of Lombardy (the region next to Piedmont) in the area of Valtellina. The red wines produced here are softer, lighter, and fresher—notably matching Asana’s menu.
Their French wines vary; some are from the Loire Valley, Bordeaux, and many others are from the Rhone region, with a couple priced at $3,000 a bottle. From Californi look for Dalle-Valle Maya, from Oakville in Napa. They are a wonderful producer of big reds like Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Franc is an increasingly popular grape variety used in many fine wine blends and considered a big red—now many producers are making it on its own.
Big reds are just what Rick Gadway is seeking out for his new wine shops. At his cigar shop in Dover he refers customers who are interested in wine to the Dover Wine Shop, conveniently located a few steps away. Steve Smith and Marie Burbank, the owners of Dover Wine Shop, just celebrated the shop’s two-year anniversary, and carries 250 wines, specialty cheeses, and wine accessories. Jude Blake, partner in Peter Paul wines, was there for the celebration pouring her wines.
Rick’s second location, Top Shelf in Epping, New Hampshire, sells both cigars and wine. Here you will find more than seventy unique wines with a large quantity of reds, a very good match with cigars. Cabernet Sauvignon is an excellent match—look for 14 Hands from Washington State, and also try their Merlot—featuring rich deep-berry flavors with touches of spice, yet smooth and velvety. You can also find selections of port and Madeira wines. Rick recommends DECO by SVP (Sonoma Valley Portworks), an unusual after-dinner wine which blends the best ports of California and South Australia, gently kissed with essences of natural bittersweet chocolate.
In Portsmouth, New Hampshire, Federal Cigar has been successfully selling cigars since 1921. Rick purchased the business last July, and is the fifth owner, making this his third location. The name and location will stay the same, but the space has been reconfigured, allowing more space for wine.
Peter Paul and Jude Blake are partners in Peter Paul Wines. They met in 2000 while serving on the board for the University of New Hampshire Foundation. Peter grew up in Troy, New Hampshire, and Jude was born in Philadelphia but spent more of her formative years in St. Louis, Missouri. Now, they both live in California and New Hampshire—where Jude says she has “put down her roots”.
Peter Paul entered into the wine business first, when he purchased the Grove Street Winery in 1999, and then sold the business in 2005, when he and Jude began Peter Paul Wines. Jude handles the marketing and events and is passionate about wine. Jude’s love for wine began at an early age sitting at the dinner table with her father describing the wine he was enjoying at the time, usually from his own wine collection. Her father also spoke to her about the history, geography, romance, culture, and languages relating to wine. After graduate school, Jude decided to learn more. She is self taught through books, classes, and attending as many wine tastings as possible.
They produce Chardonnay, Merlot, Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon. All of the grapes for their wines come from select vineyards in Sonoma and Napa and have their own distinct character that requires special attention. The Chardonnay from the Russian River in Sonoma, California, is barrel fermented with pear and honeysuckle aromas in addition to other fruit and floral characteristics, with a taste of toasty oak. Their sought-after Zinfandel is full of black cherry and cassis with hints of clove, black pepper, and anise, which comes from eighty-year-old vines!
You can easily find Peter Paul wines in New Hampshire, as well as California, New York, and a few other select markets. They are most interested in providing a great product at a reasonable price so it can be appreciated by everyone. Peter and Jude are very devoted to helping local organizations and they donate their wine frequently to charitable causes. They also bottle and produce “Lallier Champagne—a Grand Cru Cuvee” in Ay, France (the heart of the Champagne region), for philanthropic purposes. The wine is made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes; it is an elegant Champagne with aromas of apples and apricot flavors.
The Portland Harbor Hotel, located at 468 Fore Street, in the heart of the Old Port, in downtown Portland, Maine, opened in 2003, and was awarded four diamonds by the American Automobile Association—the only hotel to receive this honor in Portland. There are 101 rooms, seventeen are suites—six with fireplaces. You can also find fireplaces in the lobby, lounge, and dining room. The hotel offers old-world charm, distinctive design, and top-notch service. It is also home to a four-star restaurant, Eve’s at the Garden, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily in the dining room overlooking the Terrace. Every table provides a view to Eve’s enchanting garden.
Jeff Landry is the executive chef at Eve’s at the Garden. Jeff was recently named Maine’s Chef of the Year by the Maine Restaurant Association and he is Chef Organizer for Share Our Strength—a national organization that works hard to make sure no kid grows up hungry. At Eve’s, the focus is on Mediterranean cuisine, with a strong emphasis on French and Italian cooking. Jeff’s imaginative, sophisticated menu and carefully matched wine list changes seasonally with house specialties of lobster bisque, local seafood, organic Maine raised meats, and fresh produce.
Jeff also manages the wine list; he feels wine is a reflection of food. On his list, you can find seventy-five bottles of wine priced between $25 and $300, and fifteen of these wines are served by the glass. Jeff favors Italian wines because they pair best with his cuisine. There is no better match with his short ribs, braised in chili pepper, fennel, balsamic vinegar, and red wine, than a Colle dei Venti Tufo Blu Barolo or Poggio Antico Brunello, which are both offered on his list.
Jeff’s wine list also has a strong influence from the southern wine regions in France, including Languedoc Roussillon, Provence, and the Rhone regions. He, too, is very fond of California wines, especially those from Sonoma and Napa, but he only will choose wines that are lower in alcohol. Jeff suggests the Murrieta’s Well Zarzuela—a Tempranillo blend—another big red varietal and a perfect choice for keeping warm. Jeff has increased the amount of Spanish and Portuguese wines for the winter and added more ports and Madeira.
Jeff loves keeping busy by creating unique food and wine events. Ice Bar is an annual two-day winter event that is a huge success. Every year Eve’s Terrace features two full-sized bars carved from ice, an ice carving contest, and live music. The ice bars serve martinis, local brewed beers, and great wines.
Discovering big reds and other wines is a great winter pastime. If you cannot make it to Piedmont this year, there are many local places to explore the world of wine. Visit our website www.tasteoftheseacoast.com for additional wine recommendations. Salute!
JoAnn Actis-Grande, a freelance writer living in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, is a lover of food and wine, who has traveled to many great wine regions.
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