I’ve just gotten back from Italy, where I was invited not only to wine and dine, but to visit St. John International University, located in lovely Torino--or Turin, known to many as the home of the 2006 Winter Olympics.  (Their great academic lineup includes art, history and language programs some of which are approved by the state of New Hampshire, incidentally. Check out www.stjohniurc.it And beautiful as it is, Torino is not a major tourist destination so it’s still affordable and not overrun with visitors.

Torino is located in the Piedmont region which is rife with grand palaces, centuries old architecture, art and history.  It is a prosperous region in part because of the wines and foods produced there.  In the city, there are lots of great coffee houses and chocolate shops.  My favorite chocolate is made with locally grown hazelnuts by the artisanal chocolatier, Guido Gobino (www.guidogobino.it), where I stopped in daily! (And given that chocolate pairs very well with the bold red wines of the Piedmont I had to continue my research.)

After Torino, my next stop was the quaint city of Alba, an area known for white truffles and world class wines.  I received a warm welcome at Ceretto wineries and vineyards, a producer justly famous for its high quality Barbaresco and Barolo.  On the steamy afternoon when I was there, their Blange Lange Arneis was most refreshing.  Arneis is one of the few local white grape varieties. All of Ceretto’s wines are excellent and all are produced from their own grapes at vineyards in various locations around the Lange area of Piedmont.  I especially loved their Barolos from their Bricco Rocche winery. Visit www.ceretto.com. Later that evening, I dined at Ristorante Del Castello (as you might guess, a renovated castle) which featured a number of Ceretto’s wines.
 
The next day I joined Roberta Ceretto for lunch at Piazza Duomo, located in downtown Alba and owned by Ceretto.  The restaurant is very international and upscale.  Executive Chef Enrico Crippa focuses his menu on the finest regional ingredients.  He served an amazing salad with 41 fresh ingredients, followed by a rabbit dish made with local herbs.  Dessert was a light and airy fresh peach tart with vanilla gelato, house made chocolate truffles and espresso.  Their other restaurant, La Piola, is located on the first floor of the same building, serves more traditional Piedmontese dishes.  www.piazzaduomoalba.it

Pio Cesar is the only winery located in downtown Alba.  They have been around since 1881 and their cellars still house wines from their early days.  Touring the winery is a step back in time, but their wines are completely up to date.  I tasted their Dolcetto D’Alba, Barbaresco and Barolo – all excellent with true characteristics of the region.  www.piocesare.it

The extensive and beautiful Fontanafredda winery is located in the hills of the Lange, which has always been a prime growing area for great wines, particularly rich, powerful reds. This winery was founded in 1878 by Count Emanuele Guerrieri, the son of the first King of Italy and has rooms available for overnight stays. On the tour I tasted another quality Arneis, a Nebbiolo D’Alba, Barbaresco and a vertical tasting of Barolo was an unexpected treat. They produce a large selection, including a list of sparkling wines. I had a lovely lunch that began with Contessa Rosa, a smooth sparkling wine made from Pinot Noir grapes – so good I savored it through most courses. For dessert, I enjoyed one of the best Moscato d’asti’s ever!  www.fontanafredda.it

The owners of Fontanafredda have also opened Eataly, a new mega food complex in Torino, which alone would be worth a trip to Torino. The facility features a huge market of local artisanal products, a food and wine library, tasting areas, slow food programs, classrooms, cafes and more. A second location has recently opened in Milan, and they are planning a new venue in New York City that they expect to open in 2009. www.eataly.com

Cantine Ascheri Giacomo in Bra (home of Slow Food International) was the last winery on my tour.  Founded in 1880, the winery is still family owned and operated.  Matteo Ascheri was my guide through his state-of-the-art facility where I tasted one of the best Viognier’s I’ve ever sipped.  Matteo told me that unlike most whites, his Viogniers  age well and will taste even better in 10 years.  I also sampled a Gavi di gavi, Barbera D’Alba and Barolo. Later I dined at their restaurant, Osteria Murivecchi which is run by Matteo’s sister, Maria Theresa.  The atmosphere is warm and cozy – much like a traditional Italian farmhouse.  The menu changes every week – of course everything is fresh and local to Piedmont.  I couldn’t resist their homemade tagiatelle with fresh mozzarella and zucchini.  www.ascherivini.it

Ascheri also owns a hotel where I had the pleasure of spending my last night in pure high tech luxury.  Their hotel is far from traditional, but after tasting so much wine and food reminding me of life with my Italian grandparents, it was fun to put my head down in a place that was pure futuristic opulence.  www.ascherivini.it

I can’t say I’m glad to be home--for me Piedmont felt like home.  But summer in New England is one of our best seasons. After all it seems we wait forever for it to arrive.  In the meantime, I will enjoy what our area has to offer, while dreaming of returning to Italy and the Piedmont--soon I hope.  Salute!