Wine, Beer & Spirits
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Wine, Beer & Spirits
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Written by JoAnn Actis-Grande
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I just returned from a week in Tuscany with Taste editor Lisë Stern and a group of travel lovers. Our inaugural “Taste Tours Tuscany” was truly amazing. Each day was filled with visits to historic villages and unique wineries where we drank delicious local wines paired with specialty foods. We encountered so many gracious people; it was hard to say good-bye. Luckily we will return next year, and hopefully you too will be a part of our wonderful week touring Tuscany. Once again we will stay at the magnificent Casali di Bibbiano, an Italian country estate and winery.
Owner and winemaker Alberto Guadagnini has been in the hospitality industry for over 30 years, and also owns two restaurants in the United States. As a native Italian, he’s extremely passionate about his country’s wine. Alberto spends his time in Sarasota, Florida, and Philadelphia (the locations of his restaurants) and at Casali di Bibbiano.
Many thanks to our host and private tour guide Alberto. Together he and I organized the trip of a lifetime for our guests. Cin-cin!
Alberto Guadagnini owns Casali di Bibbiano, a beautiful winery with a guest villa located in southern Tuscany, a region of Italy famous for producing world-class wines. Guadagnini has also been in the restaurant industry for over 30 years, and owns two restaurants in the United States. As a native Italian, he’s extremely passionate about his country’s wine. Guadagnini spends his time in Sarasota, Florida, and Philadelphia (the locations of his restaurants) and at Casali di Bibbiano.
When did you become interested in wine?
My father loved wine; in fact he only drank wine, not even water. Wine was always in our house. When times became tough—I was 8 years old—my family moved from Veneto to Milano because there was more opportunity for us. As a teenager, I worked in restaurants and attended restaurant school. Learning about wine was part of the curriculum. After school I traveled to many places to work in restaurants and hotels.
When did you move to the United States?
I moved to Philadelphia in 1975. With a business partner, together we opened our restaurant in 1977. Eventually I went out on my own, and at one point I owned five restaurants in the Philadelphia area.
Tell us about your restaurants.
My oldest son, Roberto, runs Teca, which is located in Westchester, a beautiful suburb outside Philadelphia. It is a wine bar/restaurant/nightclub with an extensive wine list. My newest place, Salute, is in Sarasota, in a great location downtown. My son Marco is running the place. Both restaurants sell a great deal of my wine.
Tell us about Casali di Bibbiano.
It’s the name of the winery and estate—a classic 18th-century villa located just outside Montalcino in Tuscany. After spending a lot of time visiting Tuscany, my best friend from childhood, Reggiero, showed me a Tuscan villa for sale and I made an offer. At the end of 1995 renovations began. The land is in one of the best areas of Tuscany, where there is a wonderful climate. There are over 100 acres, and 30 are planted with grape vineyards. The soil is rich and volcanic, with an abundance of minerals and clay. We also have olive groves and produce our own olive oil that is delicious, with a unique spicy flavor. The estate is now completely restored to the original condition. The winery is state-of-the-art.
What type of wines are you producing?
Casali di Bibbiano is a boutique winery producing limited amounts of quality wines. The grapes are mostly Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, making a selection of Super Tuscans. The Argante, made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, is winning lots of accolades; it’s a full-bodied wine with jammy fruit flavors and a velvety finish. We also have a white wine named Primo Bacio (First Kiss) made from Chardonnay, Trebbiano, and a touch of Malvasia. Several wines are over 90 points on the Wine Spectator list!
What do you do for fun?
Although my work revolves around entertaining I still find it very enjoyable. Also soccer. I have played the game most of my life, along with squash, tennis, and golf.
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Wine, Beer & Spirits
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Written by Matt Webster, Taste Beer Editor
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source: foundersbrewing.com
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May and June is a time of graduations, weddings, and early picnics when we’re lucky, not to mention a time to honor Mom and Dad. We offer a quartet of beers and a pair of excellent hard ciders worthy of toasting springtime celebrations.
Founders Brewing Company Red’s Rye PA (Grand Rapids, Mich.) One the best beers to come out of the Midwest, this crimson beauty is made with four types of malt and has a balanced hoppy bitterness. The senses will be overwhelmed with hints of grapefruit from the dry-hopping, and the use of rye malt gives it a touch of spice and pillowy white head when poured into the glass.
Ruckus Brewing Company Hoptimus Prime (Wilkes-Barre, Penn.) This beer elevates the standard for double IPAs in America. Boasting a 9% ABV and brewed with three hop varieties as well as five different malts, it has an epic hop character. It comes in 22-ounce bottles, definitely meant for sharing.
Boulevard Brewing Company Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale (Kansas City, Mo.) Named in recognition of the so-called persnickety fermentation tank #7 at the brewery, this delightfully refined Belgian-style farmhouse ale is a product of the aforementioned tank. The straw-colored ale features a fruity aroma in the nose and finishes dry and spicy.
Goose Island Summertime (Chicago, Ill.) This classic interpretation of a German-style Kolsch pours as bright as the summer sun. Bready, sweet with slight hints of fruit, it’s one of the best thirst quenching beers available during the summer months. Plus it’s only 4.7% ABV.
Pup’s Cider Company Monadnock Harvest Hard Cider (Greenfield, N.H.) A most worthwhile sip. Made with local apples from southern New Hampshire, Harvest has a flavor profile similar to champagne. More on the dry side, the finish is tart and extremely refreshing.
Bantam Cider Wunderkind (Cambridge, Mass.) Made in honor of one of the greatest voyagers in United States history, Amelia Earhart, this heady cider was developed by two women who press the apples in Westport, Mass. At 6% ABV, it’s delightfully full flavored with fresh, crisp apple and subtle hints of honey. Definitely seek this one out.
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Wine, Beer & Spirits
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Written by JoAnn Actis-Grande
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Now that the winter wine fests have finished, I’m looking forward to one of my favorite springtime happenings, the Nantucket Wine Festival. The 16th annual festival is May 16-20, 2012.
The festival begins on Wednesday, May 16, with an opening reception at The White Elephant hotel, where you can meet founder Denis Toner, wine makers, and friends. Thursday’s Harbor Gala has 35 stations: wine makers or reps paired with chefs or food purveyors from the island, New England, and beyond. The days follow with incredible venues and events. You can attend luncheon symposiums, cutting-edge beverage and food seminars, and cooking demonstrations. There’s also a choice of tempting wine dinners held at several notable local restaurants. Not to miss is the Grand Tasting – three sessions offering more than 150 fabulous wines poured at the Nantucket Yacht Club. The Saturday night Celebrity Chef and Wine Auction Dinner, a fundraiser for the Nantucket Historical Association, offers rare wines and lifestyle packages up for bidding.
Nantucket Wine Festival 508-228-1128
Several outstanding wineries will be pouring select wines during the festival. I recommend the following. Cheers!
2010 Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen Eroica Riesling The 2010 vintage exudes fragrant aromas of mandarin peel and white peach with underlying mineral notes and vibrant acidity on the palate. It reflects the Eroica style that has been developed over more than a decade.
2007 Hidden Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, a dense, complex wine showing flavors of tea, black currant, tobacco and clove. The wine drinks beautifully now with decanting, and will continue to develop for a decade or more.
2010 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc A pale, youthful, straw color white wine with complex aromas of lime zest, grapefruit, passion fruit, flint and a faint herbaceous freshness. On the palate, the wine has excellent weight and bright acidity with clean fruit flavors reminiscent of the aromas.
2007 Merriam Vineyards Windacre Vineyard Cabernet Franc A dark garnet red, with a bouquet of violets, blueberry, currant, and tobacco on the nose. On the palate, a note of bright acid with baking chocolate, light spice, and cassis giving way to a structured tannin, and a long finish with cassis and Chambord-like raspberry.
2010 Foppoli Russian River Oakless Reserve Chardonnay Considered by critics to be the most premium unoaked chardonnay produced it California. Each bottle is created from the best hand picked grapes on the Foppoli’s home estate in the Russian River Valley. The Nantucket Wine Festival will be the only public pouring allowed of this wine on the entire East Coast for 2012.
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Wine, Beer & Spirits
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Written by Matt Webster, Taste Beer Editor
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Crocuses are out, daffodils are blooming, and even tulips are opening up in all their glory. Spring is in the air – and in the beer, as craft brewers around the country use the mild weather as inspiration for some fantastic seasonal offerings. Raise a glass to spring awakenings.
Peak Organic Brewing Company Simcoe Spring Ale (Portland, Maine) This rendition of an American Pale Ale is dosed with Simcoe hops giving a wonderful nose of grapefruit and pine. If you close your eyes and take a whiff it feels like you are being whisked away to a field full of dandelions.
Berkshire Brewing Company Maibock Lager (South Deerfield, Mass.) This beer is brewed months in advance of its release in the traditional German style, and then cold-conditioned to give it a beautifully well-rounded sweetness with a hint of spice on the finish. At 6.5% ABV, this refined lager is the brewing symbol for spring: “Mai”=May.
Tröeg’s Brewing Company Sunshine Pils (Harrisburg, Penn.) Released in April with the hopes of an early summer, this beer combines the “crisp taste of European style pilsner” with an ample quantity of hops to balance out the malt sweetness. At 5.3% ABV it should be served in a traditional Pilsner flute.
Redhook Nut Brown (Portsmouth, N.H.) A medium bodied dark ale, this beer is layered with hints of chocolate, cocoa, brown sugar, and vanilla. At 5.8% ABV it is extremely drinkable and as the label so eloquently states, it “takes ‘nuts’ as a compliment.”
Long Trail Brewing Company Pollenator (Bridgewater Corners, Vt.) This flavorful interpretation of an English Pale Ale features a sparkling golden color and showcases notes of honey and freshly mowed grass in the nose. Extremely well balanced at 4.6% ABV, this is the quintessential beer for change of seasons.
Weyerbacher Brewing Company Slam Dunkel (Easton, Penn.) Thought to be a one-off recipe back in 2007, there was such an overwhelming response the brewery added it to their seasonal rotation. This unfiltered dark wheat beer is a half-and-half blend of malted barley and wheat. The classic banana-clove taste profile is noted throughout.
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Wine, Beer & Spirits
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Written by JoAnn Actis-Grande
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Located in the picturesque heart of Italy, Tuscany is known for its stunning scenery and for producing some of the world’s best wines. Many Tuscan wineries are located in the central hills around Florence and Siena, extending toward the Mediterranean coast.
Tuscany contains numerous subzones with national recognition, areas that must comply with Italian laws to assure wine quality. These laws include a labeling system, with two designations awarded to quality wines that have been government tasted and analyzed. DOC (controlled designation of origin) is given to wines from small and medium wineries, and indicates the location and type of grape. The stricter DOCG (controlled designation of origin guaranteed) label is given to wines that have consistently met DOC requirements for a certain number of years, with further restrictions regarding bottle size and reputation. Producers also have the option to number their DOCG bottles.
There are additional labels for wines that don’t meet these qualifications. VDT (table wine) is the most basic classification. Twenty years ago a new classification, IGT (indication of geographic type), was implemented as a level above VDT, applied to quality wines that may use grapes different from those required for a DOC or DOCG designation.
Great Grapes Sangiovese is the most widely planted grape in Tuscany. Noteworthy red wines produced from the native grape include Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Rosso di Montepulciano, Carmignano, and Super Tuscans.
Chianti, the most common and widely sold Tuscan wine, is produced in eight district zones that cover a vast territory around the original center of Chianti Classico. Chianti comes in various styles: some are smooth and round, easy to drink young; others need years to develop aromas and flavors distinctive of aged Tuscan reds. The wines show a deep ruby-garnet color and present a light to medium body, with cherry and cranberry as the leading flavor. But you can find cocoa, espresso, tobacco, and oak in the older vintages. Easy to drink, Chianti is a great choice with pizza and pasta.
Brunello di Montalcino is one of the most highly rated and expensive Italian wines, and to many oenophiles, the best. Produced in Montalcino, Brunello was the first wine to receive DOCG status—the highest guarantee of quality. Made from 100 percent Sangiovese Grosso, it’s aged for four years (five for reserve) in oak barrels to yield a full-bodied, complex wine with a deep ruby color and intense flavor and tannins. Rosso di Montalcino is a younger, fruitier wine that needs less aging. Both wines pair perfectly with Tuscany’s renowned Florentine beefsteak, from Chianina, a special breed of white cattle.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, from the ancient town of Montepulciano, is another well respected wine. More versatile than Brunello, it’s made from a type of Sangiovese known as Prugnolo Gentile, with a deep garnet color and intense flavors of fruit and violets. It pairs well with meats, sharp cheeses, and dried fruits. Rosso di Montepulciano is a younger alternative with more subtle flavors.
Carmignano has a long history; it was recognized and enjoyed by the Grand Duke of Tuscany in 1716. It’s another Tuscan DOCG and one of the first Tuscan regions awarded official designation, for wines that include Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The wines are structured and elegant, with floral notes and plenty of berry, leather, and licorice flavors.
Super Tuscans are popular wines that are made using numerous grape varietals, including Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. Producers of Super Tuscans have a reputation for being daring and artistic while maintaining a sense of tradition. Due to the stringent Italian classification system, early Super Tuscans like Sassicaia, Tignanello, and Ornellaia were initially classified as VDT; the IGT classification was created to give these wines their due recognition. Super Tuscans are velvety smooth, yet big and juicy, with scents of blackberry and coffee, followed by a delicate finish. They are Bordeaux-style wines that satisfy all tastes and go well with red meat and all pasta dishes.
White wines are now emerging out of Tuscany. Vermentino is one varietal that is becoming popular, with vineyards planted in the coastal hills of Tuscany close to the sea. Vernaccia di San Gimignano, one of the only DOCG whites, produced in the medieval village of San Gimignano, is a dry, full-bodied wine with a rich floral bouquet and good fruit. Either choice is wonderful as an aperitif or alongside salads and fish.
Vin Santo, a dessert wine, is the pride of most producers in Tuscany. Pressed from dry grapes and aged from three to 10 years in small wooden barrels, Vin Santo is made from mostly Malvasia and Trebbiano white grape varietals. The wine has amber hues with flavors of honey, nuts, and raisins and hints of orange, with a creamy finish. A great meal ends with the popular tradition of dunking biscotti into a glass of Vin Santo.
Tasteful Tuscan Wineries Baracchi Baracchi Winery, in Cortona, is part of Il Falconiere—a Relais & Chateaux inn, Michelin-starred restaurant, and deluxe spa (see profile of owner Riccardo Baracchi, page 82). Baracchi is the first producer of a sparkling wine from 100 percent Sangiovese grapes, Baracchi Brut Rosé. The wine is delightful, dry yet silky, with aromas and flavors of wild rose and berries, and finishing with hints of almond and spice. Baracchi’s Ardito (equal parts Syrah and Cabernet) has received numerous awards.
Cantina Crociani A family legacy, Cantina Crociani is managed by Susanna Crociani, who takes an innovative and creative approach with her winery, the only one located in the village of Montepulciano. It has a beautiful historic tasting cellar filled with wine barrels, where you can sample Vino Nobile di Montepulciano—the most prestigious wine in the area. Crociani also makes Rosso di Montepulciano, a great Grappa (a distilled grape liqueur), and a noteworthy Vin Santo.
Casali di Bibbiano The winery is part of an 18th-century country estate, located in one of the best areas to grow grapes and olives. Proprietor Alberto Guadagnini (see profile, page 70) grows Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot and produces a selection of Super Tuscans. The Argante, made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, is winning many accolades. It’s a full-bodied wine with sweet fruit flavors and a velvety finish. They also make a spicy olive oil, one of my favorites from Tuscany.
Cecchi This large, important estate has been family owned since the late 1800s. Today it’s run by brothers Cesare and Andrea Cecchi, who oversee three properties in Tuscany. Castella in Chianti is their headquarters and home to outstanding Chianti and other red wines; San Gimignano is where they produce the white wine Vernaccia San Gimignano; and Maremma is the location of their newest state-of-the-art winery. Cecchi wines are well known in the United States and around the world.
Fattoria Selvapiana Situated just northeast of Florence in Chianti Rufina, this historic estate has been in the Giuntini family since 1827. Owner Federico Giuntini Masseti keeps a large collection of the wines made since 1947 (during World War II, the Germans confiscated earlier vintages) in a medieval wine cellar. The Vigneto Bucerchiale, a Chianti Rufina DOCG Riserva, is their flagship wine, produced from best vintages. Selvapiana has been on the Wine Spectator top 100 list three times.
Fontodi The winery is owned by the Manettis, a family linked for centuries to the production of terra-cotta tiles. The winery and vineyards, certified organic, are located in Panzano, the heart of Chianti Classico, in an area surrounding the Conca d’Oro (Golden Shell)—the perfect place for Sangiovese to thrive. Its flagship wine, Flaccianello delle Pieve, made from 100 percent Sangiovese, is a three-time finisher on Wine Spectator’s top 100 list.
Frascole Located near an Etruscan archeological site in Rufina, Frascole consists of a group of farmhouses built during the Middle Ages. This estate is family owned, purchased by Enrico Lippi in the mid 1990s. All vineyard farming is certified organic. They produce a small amount of Frascole and Bitornino, both Chianti Rufina DOCG wines; Frascole Riserva, a Chianti Riserva DOCG; and a Super Tuscan Venia Toscana IGT. Frascole is famous for its award-winning Vin Santo, which is also my favorite.
Rocca delle Macìe In 1973 Italian movie director Italo Zingarelli, creator of “spaghetti westerns,” bought and restored Le Macìe. He released his first Chianti Classico in 1979. Zingarelli continued buying estates (there are now six) and making exceptional wines, and today his son Sergio runs the company. Wines include Chianti Classico Famiglia Zingarelli and Ser Gioveto, a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot created by Italo when his son joined the company in 1985.
Tenuta Sette Ponti This winery is named for the seven bridges crossing the Arno River on the road from Arezzo to Florence. The closest bridge to Sette Ponti is Ponte Buriano, depicted in Leonardo DaVinci’s Mona Lisa. Today, owner Dr. Antonio Moretti produces Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, as well as small amounts of local indigenous grape varietals. Moretti’s masterpiece, Oreno, is an award-winning blend—explosive, elegant, and rich in structure.
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Taste Tours Tuscany
Join Taste of the Seacoast as we travel to Tuscany this spring, April 28 to May 5, 2012. Stay in a magnificent Italian country estate and winery while visiting my favorite wineries, markets, and beautiful hilltop villages. We invite you to join us on this exciting trip, as I personally guide you through Tuscany. Visit tasteoftheseacoast.com/Event for details.
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Winter/Spring 2012 on Newsstands Now! ------------
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