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Written by Crystal Ward Kent   
June 14, 2007

Crabcakes Pepperland Cafe

In South Berwick, Maine the word is out-Pepperland Cafe is the place to dine for lunch or dinner. Located at 279 Main Street, in the former Flynn's Market (a longtime local landmark), and across from the Sarah Orne Jewett house, this dynamic little restaurant offers comfort food cuisine with a strong southern twist. The folks running Pepperland successfully blend a variety of regional themes into their cooking, thanks to their own backgrounds. Lindsey Altshul, owner and manager, hails from New York City; co-owner and chef John Medlin is from San Antonio, Texas, while the other chef/partner, Kevin Hahn, live in South Berwick.

Pepperland Cafe opened in July 2005. "We're open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. until everyone is fed," smiles John. "We also offer a Sunday brunch from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. And everything we serve is available for take out."  

The food is creative yet homey, and has a strong local following. They regularly sell out of their homemade meatloaf with mushroom gravy, their crab cakes and Hawg Wings.   

"Our crab cakes are very popular, and it takes patience to make them the way we do," says John. "We don't use a lot of breadcrumbs, but what we do use we add in as small amounts over 20 minute intervals. This gives the cakes time to shape up. We use lump crab meat and we serve the cakes with a three onion remoulade of scallions, Vidalia and Bermuda. They come with a southwestern succotash of grilled corn, red pepper, Spanish onion, and a Mexican oregano mixture. You can also get our crab cakes for brunch as a Benedict, with a poached egg on top and hash browns on the side."

Hawg Wings
Pepperland Cafe Hawg Wings

Hawg Wings are like Buffalo chicken wings, but come from small crosscut pieces of pork shank. They are braised, floured and fried, then topped with a traditional buffalo hot sauce, and served with ancho cabbage slaw, crispy polenta, and bleu cheese dressing. "The secret to the polenta is that we serve it crispy on the outside and like a corn mush on the inside," says John. "It's a unique taste." 

They are famous for their crisp Vidalia onion rings with hot mustard aioli (try eating just one!), and for their pork chops. "People just love the pork chops," says John. "We see folks grazing on the bone! We cook the chops in a cast iron pan, then add a prosciutto bourbon sage demi glace, and serve them with collard greens sautéed with onion and bacon oil. We always make sure that our vegetables and potatoes are in equal portion. You'll get a full plate here."

Another favorite is their chicken-fried steak with sausage gravy, homefries, eggs, toast and coffee, which is available for brunch. Or, try their Asian Chicken Salad which is tea-smoked, free-range chicken tossed with mandarin oranges, cabbage greens, cashews, wontons and a sweet chili vinaigrette for a perfect luncheon meal.

"Most of what we use is made right here--like our jellies, jams, breads and sauces--or organically grown from local producers," says Lindsey. "We feel that makes a difference. We get our chicken, pork and farm fresh eggs from Kellie Brook Farm, and our beef from The Farmer's Shed here in South Berwick. Our goat cheese comes from Heart Song Farm in Gilmanton Ironworks, New Hampshire. We also run a very ‘green' restaurant. We do all our own recycling--you won't see any styrofoam here; we even have a compost pile that is used to feed the pigs.

"I was involved in an organic market project before coming here," he continues. "So my focus in opening Pepperland Cafe is to use local produce and to build a bridge with local growers and suppliers. We want to be a part of the community, as a place to eat, and as a business partner.   

For more about Pepperland Cafe, visit www.pepperlandcafe.com, or call (207) 384-5535.


 

Comments  

 
0 #7 Maureen WAde 2010-06-23 16:28
Sunday the 19th I had the most fabulous meal. Country fried steak with southern gravy 2 eggs over mediem and a side of the famous corned beef hash It is Wednesday and I'm still thinking about it!!!! Simply the best. The spicy bloody mary's are so fantastic and I do not even drink bloody mary's.
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0 #6 Grace 2009-10-24 18:09
Absolutely fabulous each and every time we return! The food is the freshest, the dishes imaginative and full of flavor - there are no bad things on the menu and the prices are beyond fair for the quality and local-ness of the ingredients. Much praise to the wine and beer list as well as the quirky yet attentive staff. There is something for everyone at Pepperland. Just go - and oh! dont miss the Sunday Brunch. I think they out do themselves with that meal!
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0 #5 Adena 2009-08-04 11:16
This is my favorite restaurant to come home to - and it's actually IN my hometown. Love that I don't have to go all the way to Portsmouth for dinner.
Living in Vermont now, I love that restaurants in my area take pride in serving local foods and farmer's produce - I am proud that this small restaurant in South Berwick has these amazing values!
Also, well the food is amazing every time, as well as the wine selection. See you again soon!
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0 #4 Ed Williams 2009-05-25 12:06
this place is hands down one of my favorite places to eat

everything i have ordered has been incredibly flavorful, well thought out and expertly prepared

i highly recommend this place and wish them years of success
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0 #3 Jenn 2009-04-12 13:01
Best brunch I have ever had! I forget the name but it was a wonderful salad with baby spinach, artichoke hearts, goat cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc..with 2 dropped eggs over it, with a special dressing, and sliced fruit on the side. It was arranged so nicely I wanted to take a photo of it! The combination of flavors was perfect, and I'll be back again today for Easter Sunday brunch.
Kudos!

Jenn (guest)
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0 #2 marianne 2009-03-29 08:41
you've received terrific reviews and i have a few things to say. Made res Wed for Sat @5:30. Sat at the corner 4-top table and were asked to move to t-2-top next to wait station in the back. Told it was going to be busy-which was fine. We chose another 2-top. 10 min later a couple sat at our original 4-top and when i asked the waitress why do they get to sit there and we don't--- she just shrugged and said something i didn't understand.

I ordered the sliced duck and it was dry, with sweet potato cubes and 3 half brussell sprouts.
my husband ordered baked haddock.

the "grilled" caesar was cold. and ordinary.

Also for 17-24$ entrees the waitstaff would look better in something other than jeans.

would command a more of an elegant and special feeling

you know your business and customers, but we were disappointed and left at 6:30
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0 #1 Brian 2008-09-25 17:04
The Pepperland Cafe is a magnificent little hidden gem located in beautiful South Berwick, Maine. The atmosphere is casual yet sophisticated and slightly reminiscent of the Black Lodge for any fellow Twin Peaks fans. The constantly evolving menu offers eclectic and innovative takes on classic New England fare and sometimes perfectly infused with Asian, German or Latin influence. The ingredients are always carefully selected, often local, and change with the seasons. The brunch is to die for, I need not say more, especially while enjoying New England's best "Hemorrhagic" Bloody Mary. Speaking of which, beer connoisseurs will appreciate Lindsey's ever changing, small yet carefully selected draught selection that he will gladly pair with your dinner. The mixed drinks are as creative yet homey as the food. Finally, one of the biggest perks of Pepperland (especially for myself being a graduate student at UNH thus extremely... poor!) is the reasonable prices. They offer a casual menu for lunch and as an option for dinner for $10 or less for a stomach filling meal. The dinner menu ranges from an extremely fair $17 to $24 considering the time and love put into every offering. If you are constantly seeking creative dishes but also enjoy the New England style, then The Pepperland Cafe will delightfully impress you.
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