 When did you realize that you would follow in the tradition of your family’s business?
I began working in the winery at the age of 10, during school vacations, doing anything that was needed. One day while I was stenciling numbers on a wine tank I realized how diverse the wine industry was and since we owned a winery, I wanted to follow in the footsteps of my grandfather and father. In 1974, after I served in the military, I joined the business while attending a winemaking program at UC Davis. I worked side by side with my father and went to school. After completing my courses in 1977, I became the full-time winemaker; it was then that my father stepped down.
Why did you become a chef?
I grew up on Breezy Hill Farm in South Berwick, Maine, so I have always respected food and the process of raising quality vegetables and animals. I worked at other local farms when they needed a hand, then when I was 13, I got a job at a local restaurant. I loved the bustle of the kitchen, and the fact that there was always something to do. Through high school, I worked at restaurants, moving my way up. Even though I loved cooking, I went to college to get a degree in broadcasting. Three days into the semester, I knew I’d made a mistake. I finished the semester, then transferred to the Atlantic Culinary Academy.
Where did you learn your craft?
At the French Laundry in Napa Valley. I was there on a culinary school externship, and studied under Thomas Keller. He is arguably the best chef in the country. He can cook anything the best possible way, and make it fun to eat, beautiful to look at, and extraordinarily tasty. While I was out there, I also called restaurants all over the region and offered to work a day for free in exchange for getting experience with different chefs. My time in California meant a lot to me, but it also made me realize how much I missed home. I decided to bring all the knowledge I’d gained, and my passion for food, back to my roots. It took going away from home to find out where I was meant to be.
Who or what inspires you?
My parents, Tom and Betsey Hasty, inspire me. It’s hard work and there are no guarantees. Yet they are committed to carrying on a tradition that’s been in our family for 300 years. Their work ethic is incredible, and the way they treat the animals they raise—they give them so much care and love. I buy my pigs, veal, and fresh greens from them for The Dunaway because I know everything will be top quality and that the animals have been properly cared for.
Where do you like to eat?
For fancier dining, I like Ristorante Massimo; Chef Jethro Loichle is a good friend. For anytime food, I enjoy Sakura or Sake, and for brunch I love the Pepperland Cafe.
What was your biggest disaster or most embarrassing moment?
Last fall, The Dunaway was hosting a wedding for 250 people at Strawbery Banke. The tents were up, the tables were out, and we had invested in thousands of dollars’ worth of equipment and food. That morning, we got a report that a major storm was moving in later in the day with near hurricane force winds. We knew the tents could take high winds but not at that velocity, and that particular area floods, so we would have been slogging around in water. We quickly called Wentworth by the Sea and asked if we could move the event there. Chef Dan Dumont was a great help and everyone sprang into action. The next challenge was converting a dinner that had been planned as a sit-down for 250 into a buffet for 250. But we got creative and it all worked out.
What’s new at The Dunaway?
We’re going to host the first Farmers’ Dinner of the season, in conjunction with New Hampshire’s Department of Agriculture. They stage these all over the state. We plan to continue offering these dinners on our own throughout the growing season. I also look forward to incorporating more fresh vegetables into the menu as the season progresses, plus mixing in some historical dishes and heirloom products. We get great ideas from John Forti, the agricultural director at Strawbery Banke. I’m also hoping to feature Piscataqua oysters once again—they were excellent—and to do more with local skate, hake, scrod, monkfish, and wolf- fish. These are tasty fish that are not endangered by overfishing so I try to make a commitment to using them.
Red Wine Poached Beef Tenderloin
Serves 4
1 bottle red wine
1⁄2 cup red wine vinegar
1⁄2 cup sugar
4 8-ounce beef tenderloin steaks
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Coarse sea salt to taste
1. Combine wine, vinegar, and sugar in a heavy-bottomed stainless steel pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Let boil for two minutes, then reduce heat to 140°F.
2. Season beef liberally with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.
3. Submerge steaks into wine mixture for six minutes for medium rare (add two minutes of cooking time for medium, four for medium well, six for well done).
4. Remove steaks from cooking liquid and let rest on paper towels for 10 minutes in a warm place to allow juices to redistribute.
5. Reduce wine mixture until it has the viscosity of honey. Remove from heat and whisk in butter until it is emulsified.
6. Slice steaks into four pieces, season to taste with coarse sea salt, and drizzle with wine reduction.
This dish goes well with potato puree, roasted root vegetables, sautéed greens, or an herb salad—and of course, a nice glass of bold red wine.
Crystal Ward Kent is Contributing Editor to Taste magazine and has written for Taste since its inception. She is a frequent contributor to numerous regional magazines, including Yankee, Accent, and New Hampshire Home.
 Quote this article on your site
Powered by AkoComment Tweaked Special Edition v.1.4.6
AkoComment © Copyright 2004 by Arthur Konze - www.mamboportal.com
All right reserved |
