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For more than a decade, Chef Joseph Brenner has served as right-hand man to celebrity chef Todd English, traveling with him and helping him oversee his many restaurants, including five Olives locations in Charlestown, Massachusetts, New York City, Washington D.C., Colorado, and Las Vegas; three Figs locations in Charlestown, Boston, and La Guardia Airport in New York; and several others, such as Todd English’s Tuscany at Mohegan Sun in Connecticut and Bonfire in the Boston Park Plaza Hotel. After a brief hiatus from his post—Brenner took time off in 2005 and 2006 to care for his ill son—he resumed his position as Executive Chef of the original Olives in Charlestown and to once again assume the position of Culinary Director for English’s vast network of properties.
You started as a line cook at the original Olives in Charlestown. How did you move up the ranks?
I’ve always had a lot of discipline and passion, and from the beginning, I had a commitment to the Olives experience. I was always the first one there and the last one to leave. I’d come in on my days off to learn more. I was always asking for more responsibility and more accountability.
You’ve said you learned the basics of preparing fresh food by spending time in the kitchen with your grandmother and aunts. How would you describe “the basics”?
“The basics” actually refers to the culture I grew up in. I spent most of my childhood in the back yard and kitchen of my grandparents’ house. I’d help get the eggs and pick the vegetables in the garden, and I’d help out in the kitchen cooking up things I still do today, like stocks, roasting chicken, and prepping the vegetables we picked that day.
Did you already have somewhat of a culinary repertoire before you even realized that you wanted to become a professional chef?
Yes, my style is rooted in classic French. I used to watch PBS when the cooking shows were on, and I would play around with the different combinations of products, and I’d cook up my own interpretations of the dishes and recipes.
Do you regret not going to culinary school?
No. You know, my schooling really occurred in the kitchen. For me, physically being in a fast-paced, intense atmosphere provides the best learning experience. I have a bachelor’s degree in business management and that’s a helpful resource when it comes to running an efficient kitchen.
You’ve traveled all over the world with Todd English, helping him run his culinary empire. Are you able to enjoy your travels or is it work, work, work?
We always make room for enjoyment of the local cuisine. We just have to balance it with plenty of very hard work. Again, this is my passion. I live for this stuff, and to have the opportunities I’ve had to travel to other countries and experience different foods and cultures is truly an amazing opportunity.
So, you’ve had the chance to visit restaurants around the globe. What was your most memorable dining experience?
I can’t pick just one, so I’ll name my top four: having lunch with my wife for our anniversary at Chillingsworth in Brewster, Massachusetts; eating spit-roasted baby goat at Da Ceasare in Piedmont, Italy; going for sushi with my daughters Ashley and Amelia at Ginza in Boston; and dinning at Freddy Giradet’s restaurant in Switzerland on his last night in the kitchen.
Are there certain things that you think all restaurants should have in common, regardless of size, prestige, notoriety or price-point?
You need to make sure there is passion present throughout the whole experience for the guests, starting the moment they step in the door. It should be evident in how the hostess greets them, how they are treated by the waitstaff, and even in their exit. Everything about the experience should be incredible.
Was Olives affected by your absence? How will it be affected by your return?
I really can’t comment on what occurred during my absence, but what I bring with me is my passion and my discipline. I just have the strongest desire to make sure every person who walks through the doors gets that incredible experience I was just talking about.
You’ve said that you were inspired by Todd English and that he was your mentor. Do you think of yourself as a mentor to young chefs when they come to work for you?
I hope that I inspire them, but I can tell you that not everyone who works for me will love the experience. It takes a certain type of person to actually know it and get it. I expect a lot from the people I work with. But I do hope to emulate what Chef English gave me.
How do you inspire them?
Again, I just bring my passion for food and genuine love for what I do to the kitchen.
Scallops with Chestnuts and Oranges
Serves 4
1⁄4 cup chestnut flour (available in specialty food stores or by mail order)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1⁄4 teaspoon black pepper
1 pound bay scallops
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
8 fresh, frozen, or canned chestnuts, shelled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1⁄2 cup fresh orange juice
1⁄2 cup chicken broth, or canned low-sodium chicken broth
1 orange, peeled, divided into segments, and cut from membranes
1. In small bowl, mix together the chestnut flour, salt, and pepper. Place the scallops on a large plate and sprinkle with the flour mixture.
2. Place a large skillet over medium-high heat and when it is hot, add the oil. Add the scallops and cook until deeply browned on all sides, about 1–2 minutes per side. Transfer the scallops to a plate.
3. Wipe the skillet clean. Melt the butter over medium heat. Add the chestnuts and parsley, and cook until the chestnuts are browned, about 2 minutes. Add the orange juice and broth, and cook until the sauce reduces and begins to thicken, about 2 minutes.
4. Return the scallops to the sauce, add the orange segments, and cook for 1 minute. Serve immediately.
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