Home arrow Chefs arrow Jethro Loichle, Executive Chef, Ristorante Massimo, Portsmouth, NH
Jethro Loichle, Executive Chef, Ristorante Massimo, Portsmouth, NH Print E-mail
Written by Crystal Ward Kent   

Jethro Loichle- Ristorante Massimo, Portsmouth, NH

Where did you train?

My first job was bussing tables at a nearby restaurant, and in the process, I became fascinated with the kitchen. I liked the camaraderie around the chefs and the entire kitchen crew. They all seemed to be good friends and had a good time while they worked. I was also fascinated with the flames, the knives, and seeing how certain products and ingredients would take on a whole new shape and dimension through the artistry of the chefs.

Where did you learn your craft?

I learned a great deal at the very first restaurant I worked in. At Versailles, located on the New Jersey shore, I soon started cooking and worked my way up. Throughout my senior year of high school, I was working over forty hours a week, all while still attending school. It was definitely tough, but I learned so much. That whole experience was priceless. Later on, I worked in a variety of places, learning even more than I could have imagined. From high-volume to the artistry of boutique fine dining, I was a sponge, soaking up as much knowledge and information about culinary arts as I could.

What or who inspired you?

Well, it starts with my upbringing. My mother and father both have great morals, strong personalities, and incredible work ethics. I admire them both very much and have to thank them for all their love and support throughout the years. They set me on the right path.

You know, I've had so many brilliant mentors throughout the years, so it's difficult for me to pinpoint one precise inspiration. Each kitchen I've worked in has had its own unique energy...and, combined with teamwork, has inspired me to do better and better. I have always had a love for food, and growing up on my family's organic farm, I was constantly surrounded by the most beautiful produce. That was certainly inspiring.

Where do you like to eat?

There are so many fantastic restaurants in the area. New England seems to boast some of the top restaurants in the country. Some of my favorites are The White Barn Inn, Hugo's, Duck Fat, and 98 Provence. I worked with Pierre Gignac and his family for a number of years at 98 Provence, and I treasure my experience there.

What was your biggest cooking disaster or most embarrassing moment?

I wanted to make homemade french fries-I was twelve. You deep-fry the potatoes in oil, and we were out of vegetable oil, so I grabbed extra virgin olive oil-I didn't know the difference. I brought the pot to a boil. Well, vegetable oil has a flashpoint of 600 degrees, but olive oil flashes at 350 degrees! The pot burst into flames. I had two quarts of oil on fire in the kitchen. Not knowing any better, I threw water on the fire. Kaboom! The fireball knocked me back three or four feet. The flames destroyed the ceiling, the kitchen cabinets, and my hair. After that, I wasn't allowed to cook for some time if I was home alone. Not an auspicious beginning for a chef!

What's new at Ristorante Massimo?

For starters, the renewed energy with Massimo now as sole proprietor! The camaraderie and teamwork that I love extends throughout our group. We're excited about the changing seasons in New England with local root vegetables and the arrival of a variety of game. We've been working closely with Hasty Farms in South Berwick, [Maine] to raise Berkshire and Dourad pigs for our restaurant. Last year we made, among other things, our own house-cured prosciutto. It was phenomenal, and we can't wait to do it again this year. Also, we will finally be introducing a chef's tasting menu. We're still in the conceptual stages, but the menu will feature many small courses, each paired with the perfect wine. Our guests often joke that they want one of each item on the menu. Now they can just about have that!

Braised Pork Osso Bucco with Leek Bread Pudding

Serves 4

For the Osso Bucco
  • 4 two-inch cut pork shanks
  • Salt and pepper, to taste
  • 1 carrot, diced
  • 1⁄2 celery head, diced
  • 1 large Spanish onion, diced
  • Sachet of peppercorns and fresh thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 cups chianti (or any other dry, red wine)
  • 6 cups veal or beef stock
For the Leek Bread Pudding
  • 3 large leeks (white part only), diced
  • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 small baguette, sliced into one-inch slices (about 4 cups)
  • 4 cups of heavy cream
  • Salt and pepper, to taste

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Season shanks with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, sear pork shanks until brown on all sides.

2. Remove shanks and add carrot, celery, and onion. Mixing frequently, sauté vegetables in pork drippings for about 5 minutes or until vegetables are tender.

3. Return shanks to pot and add remaining osso bucco ingredients, making sure that the shanks are completely covered in liquid.

4. Place pot in an oven and braise for about 5 hours.

5. For the pudding, sauté leeks in butter in large pot over medium heat until they become soft (about 5-7 minutes).

6. Grill bread on each side (or toast the bread, if a grill is unavailable). Once grilled, cut slices into 1-inch cubes.

7. Add bread to leek and butter mixture. Sauté for 2 minutes then add heavy cream. Season with salt and pepper.

8. Transfer bread and leek mixture to a roasting pan and place uncovered in oven for approximately 45 minutes or until crispy and golden brown. (In the event that the bread starts to brown too much before pudding is cooked through, cover with aluminum foil, then uncover for the last 5-7 minutes.)

9. Scoop out a nice portion of the bread pudding and place in the center of a platter. Then, with a large spoon, carefully scoop out the osso bucco and place it on top of the pudding. (Note: Osso bucco will be very tender and will fall apart easily.) Spoon out some of the braising liquids and place them on top of the osso bucco.

10. For garnish, top with microgreens, a teaspoon of crème fraiche, and drizzle with white truffle oil.

 Taste Profiles Winter 2007-08


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