Located at 86 Pleasant Street, The Green Monkey features sleek modern décor, new American cuisine with a twist, and exotic martinis. Across the street, at 75 Pleasant, Brazo brings a sultry ambiance and the flavors of Latin and South America to the Seacoast. Taste sat down with Chef Phelps Dieck to get a glimpse behind the scenes in the restaurant business.

What made you decide to open your own restaurant?

I've always wanted to own a restaurant. After culinary school, I worked at the Cliff House in Ogunquit, Maine, and as a private chef, but it was always in the back of my mind to have my own place. I wanted to be able to use my own creativity, be my own boss, and design my own space. Thankfully, Deb was willing to go along, and when the time was right, we opened The Green Monkey.

Running a restaurant is hard work. What drives you?

Keeping my customers happy. Seeing my customers' reactions to my food is what keeps me getting up every day and cooking. Knowing that people enjoy our restaurants is a big impetus for both of us.

Where do you get your ideas for restaurant themes?

With The Green Monkey, I didn't have a particular direction or theme. It's eclectic in décor and feel, and the food follows suit. I just cook what I like and what I'm in the mood for. It leads to a diverse and surprising menu.

With Brazo, we wanted to go with the Latin theme. It is a unique theme for this area. We always wanted to open a second restaurant, but we wanted to be sure we weren't competing with anyone else. We wanted our restaurant to be distinctive, and Brazo is. The name means "at arm's length" or "an extension of one's self," and Brazo is an extension of The Green Monkey and of Latin America. Gaby (Luis Gabriel Velez) is my chef de cuisine, and he and I are a good match. He can authenticate some of the Latin flavors and dishes. My role is to take dishes that are sometimes rustic and make them more upscale.

What is it like behind the scenes running a restaurant? Is it chaotic at times?

It only gets as chaotic in the kitchen as the chef and owner allow it to be. It's not like on TV! If the chef and owner are organized, things can flow smoothly. There is always some drama-it's the nature of the business-but we're successful at keeping it to a minimum. The restaurant business is very fast-paced. There are a thousand details to remember every hour of every day. If you are not detail oriented, you won't survive.

What has it been like opening a new restaurant?

It took about two-and-a-half months to pull everything together with Brazo. It's been much easier doing the second one because now we have a relationship with the community and with the vendors. We're not starting cold like with The Green Monkey. I haven't been too stressed-things have gone pretty smoothly. Although I laugh because I just got some balance in my life, and then I open another restaurant!

How do you keep a good restaurant going?

You remain consistent, yet you also change things up a bit so the customers stay interested and neither you nor the restaurant become stagnant.

The Green Monkey, (603) 427-1010, www.thegreenmonkey.net

Brazo Restaurant, (603) 431-0050, www.brazorestaurant.com

Taste Profiles Winter 2007-08

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