*Photographs courtesy of Regent Seven Seas & Neal Fisher
It was a rainy day in Monte Carlo when we boarded the Voyager. As guests of Regent Seven Seas, not only were we about to be dropped in the lap of luxury, we were embarking on a whirlwind tour of the western Mediterranean. With us were food and wine luminaries Jonathan Cartwright of the White Barn Inn in Kennebunkport, Maine; and Michele Duval, former Wine Director of the famed Wentworth by the Sea in New Castle, New Hampshire. Our plans were arranged by Kathy Burns Lamphier of Posh Travel in Greenland, New Hampshire. Our group was made up of my husband Neal and I, Taste publisher Keith Lemerise and his wife Kathy; Leslie Wolfe and her friend Jan Moscarelli. Also aboard were Michele’s partner Jo Ann Lepore, as well as their friends Victoria Erickson and Ray Martineau. By eight o’clock, the engines were humming. The crew had tossed off the dock lines and we were beginning a voyage that would take us from Monte Carlo, to Genoa, Marseilles, Barcelona, Valencia, Majorca, Minorca, Corsica, Livorno, and finally Citiaveccia, the port that serves Rome. We would end our journey with three busy—but blissful—days in the Eternal City.
This was only my second cruise ship adventure. Two years ago, I had travelled transatlantic on Cunard’s Queen Mary II, with no stops along the way. And while the Cunard ships are unquestionably luxurious, Regent’s vessels cater to smaller groups.
The Voyager and the Mariner have a capacity of 700 guests. Their sister ship, the Seven Seas Mariner accommodates only 490 guests, and on each of their vessels, the crew to passenger ratio makes for impeccable service. I can understand why Regent is consistently rated among the world’s top three cruise lines by readers of luxury travel magazines. Travel professionals worldwide have voted Regent the “World’s Best Luxury Cruise Line” for four consecutive years, and the readers of Condé Nast Traveler magazine voted RSSC “World’s Best Small-Ship Cruise Line”. (For a full list of amenties on Regent ships, visit www.rssc.com)
ON BOARD
Our steward, Rowena, who would take wonderful, gracious care of us for the entire trip, greeted us outside our cabin. All Regent accommodations are suites, and ours had a spacious covered balcony, a king-sized bed, and a well-appointed living room. The walk-in closet was twice the size of mine at home, and the spacious, marble bath had not only a shower, but a tub as well. This is the standard cabin. Larger suites and cabins are available, some as large as 1400 square feet, complete with butler service and a fully stocked bar. Regent cruises are all inclusive. And when they say all inclusive they mean it. I asked the cruise director what would trigger a charge on our bill. His reply? “Well, we have a brandy that runs about a thousand dollars a bottle. There is a surcharge for that.” Our entire bill for on-board services was $41 for use of the internet café.
The Voyager and the Mariner are the only two vessels afloat with Le Cordon Bleu restaurants aboard. But their other dining venues were spectacular as well, and, I’m pretty spoiled when it comes to good food. A poolside buffet was available each day, with everything from great fresh salads to grilled-to-order burgers. Three other dining venues were available: Latitudes, which has now been replaced with the high-end steakhouse, Prime 7; the Compass Rose; and La Veranda, which served breakfast and lunch.
The Compass Rose, our most frequented open-seating restaurant, offered a different menu each evening along with special featured wines, which included varietals from California, France, Tuscany, Germany, Australia and Argentina over the course of our trip. Each evening, there was a choice of appetizers, soups, salads, pasta, entrees, and desserts as well as a special Chef’s tasting menu. An example? En route to Marseille, the Voyager’s Executive Chef Mike Romhild offered Smoked Halibut with Herb Lettuce, garnished with sour cream, chives, eggs and sevruga caviar. The next course was Essence of Pheasant served with herb quenelles and vegetable strips. This was followed by a Citrus Avocado Salad, then a Champagne Sherbet to cleanse the palate. Next, we launched into a Fillet of Beef Wellington with Sauce Perigourdine. For those who had room, dessert was a Frozen Tropical Parfait: mango, guava and passion fruit purée served in a pastry tulip with a fruit coulis. The “regular” menus featured such pedestrian fare as Butter Poached Lobster Tail with Leeks and Red Beet Essence, or Broiled Dorade Fillet with Apple and Onion Compote, or Lamb Shank a la Bonne Femme.
As if this weren’t enough, each night those with dietary restrictions could choose from a “Light and Healthy” menu, vegetarian dishes, no added salt choices, or “Simplicity Dishes”, which the chef rightly describes as “The best of the basics cooked to perfection.” These might include pasta, filet mignon, chicken or salmon. There was, literally, something wonderful for everyone.
At Signatures, Regent’s Cordon Bleu venue, reservations were required, and veteran Regent cruisers knew to make reservations as soon as they got aboard. On any given evening, you’ll find an array of classic French dishes with first courses like Salade de Medaillons de Homard a la Vinaigrette de Crustaces (I have abbreviated the full name of the dishes as they appear on the menu), or Terrine de Foie Gras et Quenelle de Prune. This was followed by a soup course, including a superb Bisque de Crustace. (Sadly, the night we had reservations at Signatures, we were making the long passage from Corsica to Livorno and sailed through a storm. A touch of mal de mer forced me back to the cabin shortly after the bisque.) A sorbet course was served between the soup and the plats principaux. But my more intrepid dining companions were undaunted, dining on (in English), a Magret of Duck with Raspberry Vinaigrette with an apple tart and foie gras, Beef Tournedos Rossini with glazed vegetables and sauce Perigueux, and a Filet of Halibut with Pistachio Oil, two spinaches, and herb marinated tomatoes. Desserts included a Tahitian Vanilla Crème Brûlée with candied strawberries and vanilla ice cream, a Warm Chocolate Tart with raspberries, and a Port Poached Fig with Fromage blanc mille-feuille, vanilla sabayon and roasted walnuts.
Prime 7, the new dining venue aboard, opened after a major refurbishing project earlier this year. Their menu features classic steakhouse fare—with a decidedly upscale feel. Appetizers include a foie gras “slider”, a three steak tartare, (I am truly sorry to have missed this, being a confirmed carnivore) and Oysters Rockefeller. The beef is USDA Prime, dry-aged for a minimum of 28 days, and ranges from a six ounce filet to a 36 ounce Porterhouse, which is carved tableside. Their signature surf and turf features the six ounce filet accompanied by either a Canadian Lobster Tail or Alaskan King Crab legs. A range of sauces is available including a Shallot-Red Wine Bordelaise, Chimichurri, and an Armagnac and Green Peppercorn sauce. Prime 7’s day boat specials might include Mediterranean Sea Bass with a lemon caper sauce.
There was also a room service menu, (no extra charge, of course) which always included converting the living room coffee table into a dining table, which was then covered with a starched white tablecloth, and served with just about anything you could think of to drink. Afterwards, all that was required to clear the decks was a call on the ship’s phone line and all was swiftly cleared away.
UNDERWAY
Once we began our journey, we made it our mission to sample whatever local delicacies we could find during our all-too-brief days ashore. From bistros and cafes, to fish and farmers markets, it was the culinary trip of a lifetime.
On the first evening after leaving Monte Carlo, we were scheduled to anchor in the picturesque town of Portofino, but weather conditions made getting ashore impractical. So we docked in the bustling, working port of Genoa. Ashore, we asked our taxi driver to take us off the beaten track into narrow streets and alleys, dotted with cafes and trattorias. Genoa may be best known for pesto, the recipes for which vary widely, but the most common blend includes fresh basil, a good sharp parmesan or pecorino, pine nuts, olive oil and plenty of garlic. Being a seafaring town, seafood dishes are numerous and delicious. From bacalao (salt cod) to acciughe fritte (bread and sometimes stuffed anchovies) the fruits of the sea are ubiquitous. Here we sampled perfect, airy gnocci and crisp white wines.
Our next port of call was Marseilles, the second largest city in France and the largest French port. It is one of the Mediterranean’s busiest harbors and home to some of the best known Provençal dishes. Here we sampled authentic bouillabaisse and bourride, another classic Provençal fish soup. (See my recipe on page 61 for bouillabaisse which incorporates New England seafood.)
ESPAÑA
Our two-day stay in Barcelona allowed us to explore the Boqueria, the huge and bustling municipal market just off Las Ramblas, a pedestrian walkway lined with vendors, performers, and cafes, bright with flowers even in November. An important trading center since the Middle Ages, the Boqueria is also known as the Mercat St. Joseph. There is a culinary classroom in the Boqueria, offering cooking workshops, demonstrations, book signings, and product presentations.
The market itself is fringed by wonderful cafés where you can sample sea bass, crab, shrimp, cuttlefish, squid, and sardines, along with Iberian hams, sausages and cheeses. Here our little group, with Chef Jonathan leading the way, wandered the crowded aisles, taking in the extraordinary variety of fish, meat, vegetables, fruit, nuts and confections. We selected sea bass, calamari, Serrano ham, mushrooms, artichokes and chorizo, all of which Jonathan used in a cooking demonstration later that day. Jonathan also did a demonstration in the Voyager’s theater while he was aboard, which was open to all passengers, preparing Maine Pumpkin Soup with Seared Diver Scallops and Ginger Spiced Cream with samples for all. It’s an incredible dish, which he made look easy. (For his recipes, visit the Taste website.)
The variety of hams and sausages was incredible—and varied hugely in price. A patient vendor explained that the difference in cost was due to the type of pig that was used, how it was raised, and what it had been fed. The most expensive, which we sampled later that day alongside a less expensive variety, had come from a special breed of black pig, which was raised on open pasture and fed on acorns. Being air cured, these meats bear little resemblance to what we might find in a typical ham sandwich at home. The flavors are more reminiscent of prosciutto or of country hams, popular in the American south. Back on board, we sampled hams, local cheeses, and chorizo all with Spanish red wines. The more expensive Serrano ham was a deep red with a rich, nutty saltiness.
But there is much more to the Boqueria than ham. Hundreds of market stalls provide endless varieties of fresh produce, an incredible array of dozens upon dozens of species of fish and shellfish, from perfect fresh-caught tuna, to octopus, sea bream, razor clams, local lobsters, cockels and even the huge barnacles that are known as a delicacy in Barcelona. There were gorgeous looking cuts of fresh meat, along with fresh poultry, eggs, dried fruits, fresh fruit, nuts, olives, beans and legumes, and a stunning display of fresh vegetables. As a cook, I longed for a kitchen—so many incredible ingredients and not a stove in sight!
Our next port of call was Valencia, which I am told, has an equally spectacular municipal market, but our group was scheduled for a tour and tasting at Bodegas Iranzo, about 40 minutes inland, makers of the oldest estate bottled wines in Spain. Town records indicate that the Iranzo Perez-Duque family was producing wine on this land as early as 1355. We were given a warm welcome by the family and their winemakers. Since 1994, they have been producing only wines from organically grown grapes. We were shown the acres and acres of vineyards, and our hosts explained which grapes are cultivated in which sectors. We then proceeded to the winery itself, to watch some of the winemakers at work. The winery is less than a mile from most of the vineyards, so the grapes arrive at the winery freshly picked. We proceeded to the ageing cellars, with row after row of American oak barrels which contribute to the richness of Bodegas Iranzo wines.
Upstairs, we were treated to a tasting with vintners and family members. An array of local cheeses, breads, and sausages provided sustenance as we sampled four reds and one rosé. The Vertvs Merlot Crianza is a lighter red, but full of flavor. I’m not trained in the finer points of wine tasting, but I could detect the balance of fruit, spice and wood. The Vertvs Cabernet Sauvignon Crianza was rich and full-bodied, a wine that would stand up to pâtés, red meats, game, and intense cheeses. Their tempranillo was one of my favorites, with a deep rich fruitiness. The rose-colored Vertvs Bobal was served chilled, and was the perfect refreshment after a couple of sun-soaked hours at Bodegas Iranzo.
ISLAND HOPPING
From Valencia, we sailed to Palma de Majorca, the largest island in the Balearic archipelago. I fell in love with these beautiful islands, with their secluded coves, great food, and rich history. As with many Spanish cities, the Moorish influence in Palma is everywhere: from beautiful gardens with traditional flowing waterfalls and fountains, arched doors and tiled pillars to shady stone structures. Entering the harbor at Palma, you are greeted by the sight of Palma’s crown jewel, its cathedral, La Seu, whose gardens have all the earmarks of classic Moorish design. The cathedral itself is an architectural feat that took almost 400 years to complete, beginning in the 1200’s. A huge rose window, dating back to 1370, dominates the nave. Regent had arranged for an exclusive organ concert that evening in the cathedral, so we cast off our dock lines later than usual.
It was a short trip to neighboring Minorca and the port of Mahon with its long harbor that we entered from the east. Ashore, the next day, we explored the local market, with its distinctive cheeses, which have become popular throughout Spain. I had the pleasure of buying from a small goat cheese producer, who, though we had no common language, was adept at getting across the quality and origins of her product. Later, we hired a taxi to take us along the coast to a secluded beach. We walked, I swam, we explored cliffs and caves and generally worked up an appetite. Back in Mahon, a short walk along the harborside brought us to Café Amarre, where you could order anything from a simple breakfast, to pâte with a foie gras medallion. We decided to share a few local dishes. We started with a cheese plate featuring a delicious, slightly tart, orange rind cheese, along with a simple dish of rustic bread spread with a fresh tomato puree and olive oil. This was followed by plump local mussels served with a housemade garlic aioli and a plate of escalivada, grilled marinated vegetables with olives and anchovies. I considered abandoning ship and spending the rest of my days on this gorgeous island.
But had I jumped ship, I would have missed Corsica, which would have been a serious mistake. Corsica has the Mediterranean feel of the Balearics, but with a distinctly French character. It is an island of small farms and vineyards. Many are organic producers, simply because they have always operated that way. Instead of returning to “slow food”, most of the Corsican agribusinesses never left it.
We docked in the beautiful palm lined port of Ajaccio. Just beyond the quayside was a farmers market, with outdoor stalls, filled with locally grown fruits and vegetables—a rainbow palette of colors. Local vendors were selling fragrant herbs and spices, including a special spice blend used for the Corsican soup de poisson. There was locally cured charcuterie, as well as Corsica’s farmhouse cheeses, made by the farmer, from one herd, and by traditional methods. They are primarily goat and sheep’s cheeses, often named for the producer. They range from light, fresh goat cheeses, to soft-washed rind varieties, to sharper, more mature hard cheeses. The fish market is a large, immaculate room in the city hall. Here there were endless varieties of fish and shellfish, including an assortment of small colorful fish used for fish stews, so fresh they were still flapping. Corsica is also known for its chestnuts, used in everything from soups to breads made with chestnut flour. There are varieties of seasonal honeys, and 2600 hectares of citrus groves. There are mushrooms to be foraged, olive groves, and locally pressed olive oil.
There are some 350 wineries producing wines from “micro-regions” across the island; primarily reds, but with a few whites and rosés. Many of the locals drink Cap Course, something like a sweet vermouth but with quinine, as well as pastis, which is consumed widely in Southern France. There are fruit wines, with citrus, berries, or fruit that have been macerated in a wine base. I brought back an orange infused variety that was luscious—both to smell and taste. The locally produced gin is wine-based and often flavored with lemon. (For more on this, see the Spirited Tastes section of this issue.)
Lunchtime was coming up so we left the market to find a café. We discovered that the Corsicans take great pride in their pizza, claiming that it is rivaled only by Italy’s Neapolitan pizza. I wouldn’t want to judge the tie-breaker for this one. Corsican pizza is made with crème fraiche and gruyère, and as you might guess is incredibly rich. We found a lovely sidewalk café, and feasted on a white pizza with local mushrooms, washed down with a chilled Corsican rosé. In short, this island is a kind of Eden for gastronomes. Once again, I didn’t want to leave.
CROSSING TO ITALY
We sailed that night for Italy, docking in Livorno, the port city closest to Florence. We would end our splendid journey the following day in the port of Civitavecchia, where we would disembark from our luxurious floating home. Livorno is in Tuscany, one of the many picture postcard regions of Italy with its rolling hills and vineyards, dotted with farmhouses and villas. Most of our group went ashore to visit Tua Rita Vineyards, located in Suvereto, which is known for its Redigaffi, made from 100% merlot grapes. Their 1999 Redigaffi was described by famed wine critic Robert M. Parker “as close to perfection as a wine can get”, and the next year, he gave the 2000 a perfect 100 score. Needless to say, this created a nearly cult-like following for Tua Rita’s wines. Had we more time, I know we would have loved it. But I was on a mission: to sample the local dishes of Livorno, and browse the city’s market stalls.
Livorno is a far cry from the pastoral countryside of Tuscany. It is a noisy, vibrant, bustling port city, with its own character and cuisine. Having no particular lunch destination in mind, we wandered the streets, menu surfing. The culinary gods were smiling on us as we happened onto a husband and wife owned osteria called La Libecciata.
The tables were full of natives, some apparently construction workers who were regulars. They were chowing down on huge bowls of a classic Livornese dish: Cacciucco alla Livornese. This is a fragrant and intense seafood stew with at least five different sorts of seafood; in this case langouste, mussels, squid, octopus and prawns. These were stewed with garlic, tomatoes, red pepper and parsley and served with a toasted rustic bread. I had to try another signature dish of Livorno: the Riso al Nero de Seppia, or black rice with cuttlefish, a close relative of squid. The flavor of the cuttlefish and their ink was unlike anything I’ve tasted. Slightly briny without being fishy, I couldn’t really think of anything to compare it to, but the texture of the cuttlefish themselves was very like calamari when cooked properly. My husband’s face froze when I looked up smiling with pleasure at my lunch. My teeth and lips were black from the ink and black rice. He was enjoying a grouper ravioli, with prawns and pesto, but he declined to make eye contact with me after that, no matter how many times I tried to flash him my blackened grin.
Also on the menu was a Carpaccio de Tonno Affumicate alla Contadina, a smoked tuna carpaccio with rocket lettuce, olives and tomatoes, and Insalata di Polpo e Patate, or octopus and potato salad. We drank a crisp Tuscan white wine, and after lunch, sampled a house made liqueur, a sort of brandy that had been infused with currants and plums. Lastly, the proprietor insisted we try another Livornese classic, ponce, a hot punch of sorts made with espresso, rum and lemon rind. I am chronically unable to drink coffee (being naturally caffeinated), but this hit the spot, and gave us the energy to seek out the nearest farmers market. The tab for our lunch was 33 euros.
This was a bustling scene, and more than once I was elbowed out of the way by elderly Italian ladies provisioning for dinner (They could obviously spot a tire kicker when they saw one). But we couldn’t resist and decided to take a few things back to the ship, where we would join our gang for another wine tasting. We bought fresh perfectly ripe San Marzano tomatoes and fresh fennel, which the Voyager’s kitchen washed and sliced for us to taste with just a little sea salt. We had also purchased several kinds of cheese—including a perfectly aged Parmesan—along with fresh bread which were served with the wines we tasted that night. This was the last night aboard ship, and though we were excited about visiting Rome, we were sorry to leave our sybaritic life aboard the Voyager and her wonderful crew.
But stay tuned for Taste’s Roman holiday, coming up in the next issue!
Bouillabaisse This is a recipe I adapted in order to approximate the famous dish of Marseilles. The great debate is whether on not you can make “authentic” bouillabaisse with out racasse, a Mediterranean fish not easily found outside that region. But in my view, bouillabaisse originated with the catch of the day—or perhaps even the by-catch or what didn’t sell that day. Recipes I’ve read have included lobster, crab, squid, shrimp, eel and octopus. Think of this recipe as an outline and include your favorites and use your imagination! This is traditionally served with a rouille, (for a recipe go to www.tasteoftheseacoast.com) a garlicky, red pepper mayonnaise served over slices of baguette in the bottom of a bowl. I like the bread on the side to sop up juices.
11⁄2 cups leeks, washed and sliced into 1⁄4 inch rounds
1 cup chopped onion
6 cloves garlic, mashed and chopped
1⁄2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 28-ounce can Italian plum tomatoes
1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
1⁄4 teaspoon saffron
11⁄2 quarts fish or seafood stock
2 pounds monkfish (or any other firm white fish)
1 pound cod, cusk, hake or other in that family
18 mussels, debearded and rinsed
12 cherrystones or littlenecks, scrubbed
1. Heat olive oil in a stockpot. Sauté leeks, onion, garlic and herbs until just fragrant.
2. Add the tomatoes with their juices and the fish stock. Add saffron and stir.
3. Add firm fish, like monkfish first, and cook for 2–3 minutes, add cod or other more delicate fish and bring to a simmer.
4. Add clams, and cook for 2 minutes. Add mussels and cook till open, about 5 more minutes.
5. Serve in large bowls, dividing broth and seafood equally.
Salt Cod Cakes with Chili-Lime Mayonnaise This recipe is a tribute to the ubiquitous bacalao or salt cod found in the Mediterranean.
1 pound salt cod
1 whole lime, sliced
2 medium potatoes
2 cloves garlic, sliced
4 tablespoons olive oil
1⁄3 cup diced bell pepper
1⁄2 cup diced scallions
Zest of 1 whole lime
Juice of 1 lime
1 teaspoon chili-garlic sauce
1⁄2 cup good-quality mayonnaise
1⁄3 cup plain yogurt
1. First, prepare the salt cod for cooking: Brush any extra salt off the cod fillets and rinse them well under running water. Place them in a glass dish and cover with water. Refrigerate for 24 hours, rinsing and changing the water three times during that period.
2. Rinse one last time and place in a large saucepan with a cover. Slice 1 lime into wedges and place atop the fillets.
3. Add water to cover. Simmer, covered, for 8 to 10 minutes or until the fish flakes easily in your hands, removing any small bones.
4. Next, make the fish cakes. Peel and chop the potatoes. Place them in a saucepan and add the sliced garlic. Simmer for 15 minutes or until the potatoes are soft. Drain thoroughly and mash.
5. In a sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the pepper and scallions and sauté until just soft.
6. In a bowl, combine the cod, mashed potatoes, and sautéed vegetables; mix well. The mixture should be sticky enough to form into cakes with your hands. Form into patties or cakes about 3 inches in diameter for an entree, or 1 inch for hors d’oeuvre size.
7. Heat another tablespoon of the olive oil in a frying pan and fry the cakes until golden brown on each side, adding more oil as necessary. Drain on paper towels and keep warm.
8. Finally, make the mayonnaise: Combine the lime zest, lime juice, chili-garlic sauce, mayonnaise, and yogurt in a nonreactive bowl. Chill and serve with the cod cakes.
Jean Kerr is the editor of Taste, the author of three cookbooks and two-time Book of the Year Award nominee.
Restaurants 
It was a rainy day in Monte Carlo when we boarded the Voyager. As guests of Regent Seven Seas, not only were we about to be dropped in the lap of luxury, we were embarking on a whirlwind tour of the western Mediterranean. With us were food and wine luminaries Jonathan Cartwright of the White Barn Inn in Kennebunkport, Maine; and Michele Duval, former Wine Director of the famed Wentworth by the Sea in New Castle, New Hampshire. Our plans were arranged by Kathy Burns Lamphier of Posh Travel in Greenland, New Hampshire. Our group was made up of my husband Neal and I, Taste publisher Keith Lemerise and his wife Kathy; Leslie Wolfe and her friend Jan Moscarelli. Also aboard were Michele’s partner Jo Ann Lepore, as well as their friends Victoria Erickson and Ray Martineau. By eight o’clock, the engines were humming. The crew had tossed off the dock lines and we were beginning a voyage that would take us from Monte Carlo, to Genoa, Marseilles, Barcelona, Valencia, Majorca, Minorca, Corsica, Livorno, and finally Citiaveccia, the port that serves Rome. We would end our journey with three busy—but blissful—days in the Eternal City. 
ESPAÑA
We docked in the beautiful palm lined port of Ajaccio. Just beyond the quayside was a farmers market, with outdoor stalls, filled with locally grown fruits and vegetables—a rainbow palette of colors. Local vendors were selling fragrant herbs and spices, including a special spice blend used for the Corsican soup de poisson. There was locally cured charcuterie, as well as Corsica’s farmhouse cheeses, made by the farmer, from one herd, and by traditional methods. They are primarily goat and sheep’s cheeses, often named for the producer. They range from light, fresh goat cheeses, to soft-washed rind varieties, to sharper, more mature hard cheeses. The fish market is a large, immaculate room in the city hall. Here there were endless varieties of fish and shellfish, including an assortment of small colorful fish used for fish stews, so fresh they were still flapping. Corsica is also known for its chestnuts, used in everything from soups to breads made with chestnut flour. There are varieties of seasonal honeys, and 2600 hectares of citrus groves. There are mushrooms to be foraged, olive groves, and locally pressed olive oil. 
