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 Summer on the coast is all about seafood, from clambakes and “lobster in the rough,” to festivals celebrating the sea’s tasty harvest. Taste offers an informal guide to classic clambakes, “relaxing in the rough” outdoor dining, and the region’s famous festivals.
How to Do a Clambake
Of all New England’s wonderful cuisine, the clambake best sums up the essence of the region. It blends the fruits of the sea with the bounty of the harvest, and its customary outdoor setting celebrates the beauty of the region’s coast.
Traditionally, a clambake consists of freshly dug clams (“steamers”), mussels, roasted corn on the cob, baked potatoes, roasted onions, lobsters served with melted butter, and, for dessert (if there is room), blueberry pie or watermelon. Old-time Mainers would gather at the beach, dig a pit in the sand, line it with stones, then build a large wood fire to heat the stones. Once the stones were warm, they’d add potatoes, onions, corn, and clams, sometimes even sausages or hot dogs, cover it all with seaweed and a wet tarp and steam until everything was cooked through. Another popular variation is boiling everything in a huge kettle or washtub over the fire.
 Jean Kerr, editor of Taste and a twenty-five-year veteran of many clambakes, offers a simpler method, which is highlighted here (to read her tips in full, check out her cookbook Mystic Seafood: Great Recipes, History, and Seafaring Lore from Mystic Seaport). First step, grab some basic tools: a clean metal garbage can, pot holders, metal serving tongs, and a team of helpers for prepping food, fetching, and carrying.
With her team and tools in order, Jean’s family digs a fire pit one foot deep and three feet across, and then lines it with big, flat rocks. These keep the moisture out and give the trash can a firm base to sit on. Next, they build a wood fire. The fire must be fairly substantial so it will last several hours and boil seawater, which has a higher boiling point due to its salt content. Once the fire is under way, helpers are dispatched to gather rockweed from tide pools and other rocky parts of the beach. Jean notes that you can distinguish rockweed from other seaweed by its “little bubbles or poppers.” “Using the right seaweed is key, as other varieties don’t react well to heat,” she explains. Rinse the rockweed in seawater; since it will play a key role in cooking.
With the fire going, Jean recommends filling your trash can with 8–10 inches of seawater—be sure to get clear, unsandy water. Set the trash can on the fire, cover, and wait till the water comes to a rolling boil. Once that is attained, pile enough rockweed into the trash can to cover the bottom. Then wrap your scrubbed, but not peeled, potatoes in foil, and place them on top of the rockweed; add more rockweed to cover them. If you want to roast some onions, throw them in now. Cover the trash can and let it steam/boil for about 20 minutes.
Next, add the lobsters and cover them with rockweed. Put the lid back on the trash can and let steam for about 20 minutes. Now, it is time for the corn. When shucking the corn, remove the dark green part of the husk, but leave the soft, inner leaves. Pull these back and remove the corn silk, then rewrap the soft leaves around the corn. Toss the ears in the can and cover them with rockweed. Cook for just 15 minutes. Clams are best handled by tying them in cheesecloth bags for easy removal. Place them in the can, cover with rockweed, and steam just until the clams open, about 10 minutes. (Throw out any broken or unopened clams.) Finally, melt your butter in any old pot at the edge of the fire. Use disposable cups to divide the butter into individual servings for dipping. Allow one lobster, one potato, about a pint of clams or mussels, and one or two ears of corn per person.
Jean’s “clambake can” is not used for any other purpose, and she points out that “cooking in the washtub” is very popular in Down East Maine. Clambakes are simple affairs, with knives and forks optional. Folks usually eat seated on rocks, blankets, or beach towels. Plates are sturdy but disposable. Clambakes can be “accessorized” with any side dishes you like, from blueberry muffins to coleslaw or sliced veggies, such as cucumbers and tomatoes. The point is to savor the bounty of land and sea in the fresh salt air, with the cry of gulls and the splash of the waves for accompaniment.
Local Clambakes: Catered and In-House
The “granddaddy” of local clambakes is Foster’s Downeast Clambakes in York Harbor, Maine, off Route 1A. Foster’s has been hosting clambakes since 1951. The staff’s skill has taken them around the world, and has included creating a clambake on the White House lawn and presenting a celebratory dinner for 4,600 troops returning from the Gulf War. Typically, 50,000 people a year are introduced to the joys of a Maine clambake through Foster’s.
Foster’s clambakes feature all the aforementioned traditional items plus rolls and their award-winning chowder. For dessert, guests are treated to Foster’s famous blueberry crumb cake. Chicken and vegetarian selections are available for anyone not partial to lobster (often a good choice with small children). All clambakes at Foster’s are by reservation. If it’s a nice day, the event is outside in the shady pavilion; if the weather is inclement, the event moves inside by the roaring stone fireplace. Clambakes at Foster’s are a good time for all and include sing-alongs, other live entertainment, shuffleboard, volleyball, basketball, and horseshoes. All in all, a great way to work up an appetite! Young and old alike may find themselves wearing the unique “lobster hats”—a Foster’s clambake tradition.
Foster’s does take its clambakes on the road but requires parties of specific sizes to cook the clambake on site (the required size of the party is tied to the travel distance; details are on www.fostersclambake.com). Foster’s also does clambakes where the meal is prepared at the company’s facility before being delivered. However, Foster’s is quick to point out that the staff is happy to work with anyone to meet their clambake needs. For more information, call (207) 363-3255 or visit www.fostersclambake.com.
Just as you enter Kittery, Maine, on Route 1, you’ll see the famous red lobster sign that marks Warren’s Lobster House, a local landmark for more than sixty-seven years. Warren’s is known for its seafood and for its clambakes, or lobsterbakes as the restaurant typically calls them. The Warren’s version includes all of the classic items except corn and features chowder and the dessert or beverage of your choice.
“There is a mystique about lobsterbakes,” notes Scott Cunningham, owner of Warren’s. “Historically, they are what New England is known for, especially Maine. They capture the culinary essence of the state, and tourists want to sample that. It is one reason why they vacation here."
You can enjoy a lobsterbake at the restaurant or have it catered. Restaurant lobsterbakes include Warren’s salad bar, with an eye-popping sixty-five items. Catered lobsterbakes require a minimum of fifty people. Generally, Warren’s cooks the lobsterbake at the restaurant and transports it, although the staff can prepare the meal on site. Warren’s has done clambakes at Odiorne State Park and Rye Beach State Park in New Hampshire and for many weddings, including one memorable one in Brookline, New Hampshire.
“This wedding was for two hundred people,” remembers Scott. “It was at the top of a hill, in an open field. We had a heck of a time getting everything up there, but the view was just gorgeous. They served the lobsters and steamers on china, which was a first. I just kept saying, ‘Please don’t let it rain.’"
Scott notes that Warren’s will do “whatever is humanly possible” to provide lobsterbakes wherever guests desire. Off-site lobsterbakes require as much notice as possible, while those at the restaurant need a reservation. Individuals who want to sample lobsterbake food at the restaurant can order the “Shore Dinner,” which has essentially the same items. Servers will show guests how to eat a lobster if they are unfamiliar with this delectable crustacean.
Still, all the assistance in the world cannot persuade everyone to try a lobsterbake. “Our most memorable experience was with a bus tour from somewhere in the Midwest,” says Scott. “They all sat down to the lobsterbake, and most folks seemed excited, but this one lady ran screaming from the restaurant the minute we put the boiled lobster on her plate. She simply could not deal with it. She did not want to see it or touch it, and she certainly was not going to eat it!"
For more information, call Warren’s at (207) 439-1630 or visit www.lobsterhouse.com.
Over in New Hampshire, try the Little Neck Clambake Company in Hampton. Little Neck is a full-service clambake provider offering all the traditional fixings while allowing guests to customize their clambakes. Little Neck will travel to the location of your choice, help you find a clambake location if you need assistance, or host one on-site at the company’s Hampton pavilion. For more information, call (603) 498-3889 or visit www.littleneckclambake.com.
Heading a bit inland, call Clambake Charlies of 22 Garland Drive in Hampstead, New Hampshire. Clambake Charlies can create a clambake for you at any time of year, whether it is at the height of summer or during the mid-winter deep freeze. The company can prepare feasts for parties ranging in size from 25 to 2,500. Your clambake is prepared fresh, on site, with all the classic fixings. To learn more, call (800) 228-3733 or visit www.clambakecharlies.com.
 Lobsters and Seafood “In the Rough”
For many, the perfect summer meal is a nice lobster or basket of clams eaten outside on a pier or deck. The salt air sparks the appetite, and the waterfront views soothe the soul. It is carefree dining at its best.
There are too many options to include them all, but following is a sampling of local favorites. In Rye, New Hampshire, guests have been flocking to Petey’s Summertime Seafood & Bar for ages. Petey’s is known for its full-to-overflowing baskets of fried clams and shrimp; lobster rolls and dinners; scallops; haddock; and much more. Located across from the ocean at 1323 Ocean Boulevard, Petey’s is a must-stop come summertime. Dine outside or in, or call for takeout. For more information, call (603) 433-1937.
Up in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, Old Ferry Landing is a hot spot for outdoor seafood. Situated downtown on the banks of the Piscataqua River, Old Ferry Landing offers stunning views of the waterfront, especially the tugboats, which are docked next to the deck. Popular baskets of clams, shrimp, and scallops are available, along with lobsters, seafood salads, and other coastal fare. Indoor dining is available, and the deck has side panels if the weather turns showery. For more information, call (603) 431-5510.
In Kittery, Maine, locals head for Bob’s Clam Hut, a fixture on Route 1 since 1956. At Bob’s grab a picnic table and treat yourself to classic seafood. Bob’s offers fried clams, shrimp, haddock, and scallops; steamers; chowder; lobster rolls; and of course, lobster. Yankee Magazine named Bob’s an “Editor’s Pick” and Forbes cites the Clam Hut as one of forty favorite U.S. restaurants. Indoor dining is also available. Visit www.bobsclamhut.com or call (207) 439-4233 for details.
Another Kittery favorite is Weathervane Lobster in the Rough with another Seacoast location on Dover Point Road in Dover, New Hampshire. The Weathervane offers rustic dining and large portions. The extensive menu features everyone’s seafood favorites—clams, lobsters, shrimp, and scallops—plus great chowder, and a bit more unusual offerings such as salmon, swordfish, and fried calamari. The original Weathervane is located on Route 1 in Kittery, near Spruce Creek, but for true deck dining, head to the new location on Badger’s Island, overlooking the Piscataqua River. For more information, call (207) 439-0330.
Head on down to Kittery Point, Maine, for one of the most famous outdoor seafood eateries. Chauncey Creek Lobster Pier off Route 103 on Chauncey Creek Road has casual waterfront dining with gorgeous views of its namesake waterway. Brightly colored picnic tables dot the deck, which is shielded from showers and sun by a roof. The menu is simple but classic, focusing on steamers, oysters, lobsters, and lobster and crab rolls, all packed with flavorful meat. There is a limited selection of fried food. Side dishes include cole slaw, potato salad, corn on the cob, and baked beans. At Chauncey Creek, you can bring your own wine or beer, as well as side dishes. Soda and coffee are available at the restaurant. Parking is extremely limited, especially on weekends, so carpool if you can. For more information, call (207) 439-1030 or visit www.chaunceycreek.com.
Journeying north to Cape Neddick, Maine, you will see cars lined up at the Cape Neddick Lobster Pound on Shore Road. The “Pound” is right on the Cape Neddick River and offers stunning sunset views. The restaurant has been treating guests to outstanding vistas and great seafood for nearly fifty years. While the Pound’s menu also features beef, chicken, and pork, it is most famous for its seafood and lobster. “All of our lobster is caught locally,” says Charlie Caramihalis, manager. “They come from right out here, in Cape Neddick and York, and they are delivered daily. We have an icy-cold ocean-water tank that’s filled with water right from the river. It keeps the lobsters perfectly. You can’t have fresher lobsters than we have here."
The Cape Neddick Lobster Pound offers the king of crustaceans boiled, baked stuffed, and in “lazy-man” fashion, meaning the staff has removed the lobster’s shell. “We’re seeing more diners request the lazy-man version,” says Charlie. “If you’ve never had lobster, shelling can be a daunting task. We take away the mess and make it easy. There’s no bib, no cracking, but there’s still plenty of drawn butter and tasty meat.” The Pound has one of the largest selections of lobster around, including twins (two 1-pound lobsters), 11⁄4 pound, 11⁄2 pound, and specials of up to 2 pounds. Indoor and outdoor dining is available. For more information, call (207) 363-5471 or visit www.capeneddick.com.
Continuing on to York, Maine, check out The Lobster Barn Seafood and Grill on Route 1, whose motto is “Get Rough and Relax.” The Lobster Barn is all about lobster and seafood “in the rough.” Dine outdoors in a pavilion under majestic white pines and feast on lobsters, steamers, fried seafood, or chowder. Classic lobsterbakes are also on the menu as is indoor dining. In addition to great food, The Lobster Barn is all about good times, with horseshoes, bocce ball, and a playground for kids. For those who take casual dining seriously, visit The Lobster Barn. For more information, call (207) 363-4721 or visit www.thelobsterbarn.com.
Also on Route 1 is York Lobster & Seafood, which features all those tempting fried offerings (clams, shrimp, scallops, and more), plus crab cakes, mussels, lobster, lobster rolls, and much more. Those with big appetites get all their favorites in one dish, with the Cape Neddick Combo, a heaping helping of whole-belly clams, scallops, haddock, and Maine shrimp.
York Lobster & Seafood also sells fresh fish and live lobster, giving new meaning to “food to go.” For more information, visit www.yorklobster.com or call (207) 363-5000.
Author’s Note: Most of these restaurants serve some non-seafood items for those who have other tastes; these items may range from hot dogs and burgers to chicken and steak, depending on the restaurant. Also, some are seasonal, so be sure to call ahead.
A Bounty of Seafood Festivals
Maine
Celebrate the clam in all its glory at Yarmouth Clam Festival on July 18-20. Clams are served fried, steamed, as cakes, and in chowder, along with lots of other goodies. There is a parade, canoe races, a clam-shucking contest, a butterfly house, music, crafts, and much more. It is all good family fun. Watch for Steamer, the festival’s giant clam mascot, as he makes the rounds. For more information, call (207) 846-3984 or visit www.clamfestival.com.
The ultimate seafood festival is the Maine Lobster Festival, celebrating sixty years this summer. Held July 30-August 3, in Rockland, this is a Down East classic. Thousands of pounds of lobster will be cooked and eaten, the Maine Sea Goddess will be crowned, and drama will unfold with the international lobster crate race. Add to that a parade, contests, demonstrations, crafts, rides, souvenirs (lobster motifs, of course), and A-list entertainment and you have a festival worthy of Maine’s king crustacean. For more information, visit www.mainelobsterfestival.com or call (800) LOB-CLAW (562-2529).
The lure of the lobster continues with the Winter Harbor Lobster Festival in Winter Harbor on August 9. The festival features a lobster feast with all the fixings, open house at the Prospect Harbor Lighthouse, plus lobster boat races. To learn more, visit www.acadia-schoodic.org.
New this year is the Maine Oyster Fest, which will be held October 12, from 5:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m. at the Union Bluff Meeting House in York Beach. Sponsored by the Union Bluff Hotel and York Lobster & Seafood, the event features eight of the area’s top chefs and their oyster recipes, a huge raw oyster bar, live music, a charity auction, food contests, and the “oyster luge.” For details, visit www.maineoysterfest.com or call (207) 363-5000.
New Hampshire
On June 7, the oldest chowder festival in the state, WOKQ’s Annual Chowderfest, gets under way at Prescott Park in Portsmouth. Thousands flock to this beautiful riverfront park to taste and compare entries from the region’s best chefs. The chefs start serving about 11:00 a.m. but get there early to get in line. The festival ends when the chowder is gone. Proceeds benefit the Prescott Park Arts Festival. This year’s event is also sponsored by Taste of the Seacoast magazine. Visit www.prescottpark.org for more details.
On September 5-7, the Hampton Beach Seafood Festival will be serving up every kind of seafood possible, from fried delights to lobsters, steamers, and more. A parade, musical entertainment, and a fireworks display add to the festivities. Click on www.hamptonbeachseafoodfestival.com to learn more.
Who says great seafood cannot be found inland? Not the folks at the Waterville Valley Chowderfest. At stake are bragging rights to claiming the best chowder in the mountains. Held September 27 in Waterville Valley, the event also features outdoor concerts and other activities. Visit www.waterville.com.
Massachusetts
Chowder-lovers feel they have died and gone to heaven at Boston Chowderfest, held this year on July 6. The event is part of Boston’s Harborfest and awards the title of “Boston’s Best Chowder.” Visit www.bostonharborfest.com for details.
September also marks the celebration of the “beautiful bivalve,” at the Bourne Scallop Festival on the 19th-21st. The event is held “under the Big Top” so it goes on rain or shine. In addition to delicious scallops, fixed every way possible, a feast of other foods is also available. Check out www.capecodcanalchamber.org.
Just as the first tang of fall hits the air, Ipswich hosts its big Chowderfest. Representatives of more than a dozen North Shore restaurants line Market Street, dishing up steaming bowls of chowder. (Date not set at time of publication.) Visit www.capeannvacations.com to learn more.
Connecticut
Catch the last clam of the season at the Chowderfest at Mystic Seaport on October 11-13. The event boasts that it is “Lots of Clams for Not a Lot of Clams.” In addition to chowder, enjoy desserts, beer, wine, and apple cider, along with musical entertainment, including sea chanteys. Mystic is a great family recreation area with plenty of fun activities at historic Mystic Seaport and Mystic Aquarium. Visit www.mysticseaport.org to find out more.
Rhode Island
Want to see three thousand gallons of chowder? Then check out the Schweppes Great Chowder Cook-Off on June 7 in Newport. For more than twenty-five years, this event has been dishing up delicious chowder and clam cakes. While there, be sure to take in Newport’s stunning mansions and yacht-filled harbor. Visit www.newportfestivals.com to learn more.
Worth the drive is the Charlestown Seafood Festival at Ninigret Park in Charlestown. Held August 1-3, the event showcases the region’s great seafood, including a fabulous raw bar, fish and chips, lobsters, steamers, and more. Visitors also enjoy the arts and crafts, car show, and a chance to win amazing prizes, such as a classic motorcycle or boat. Visit www.charlestownrichamber.com.
Start the fall with the Aquafina Taste of Rhode Island on September 27-28. The event features more than forty restaurants, with each presenting delicious seafood offerings that showcase the state’s ocean heritage. This event is also held in beautiful Newport. Visit www.newportfestivals.com/.
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