Mombo at Strawbery Banke opened last summer, with a menu filled with an array of appetizing choices. Executive Chef and General Manager Tom Perron says, “Our overall style is creative and innovative cuisine with an international flair.”

Owners Brian and Dede Cadieux are amateur gastronomes and world travelers who have spent decades enriching their palates at restaurants around the globe; they named their restaurant for a Botswana game reserve whose atmosphere was particularly memorable. “It was warm and welcoming,” says Dede. “They had the best hospitality we ever experienced. When people come in here, we want to give them a two-hour vacation.”

On winter evenings, Mombo welcomes guests with a crackling fireplace. It adds additional warmth to the exposed beams, a snaking quartz bar, modern chandeliers, deep red walls, and Russian artwork from the Cadieux’s private collection. Mombo also has its own parking lot—a precious commodity in Portsmouth.

Every dish is beautifully presented, in a way that both pleases the eye and makes you want to dig in. Salads are particularly noteworthy. On one visit, Perron was in the process of incorporating new items on the menu, and had designed the signature Mombo Salad. Two oversized toasted croutons are crisscrossed on the plate and serve as a base for fresh spinach and slow roasted red and gold tomatoes tossed with a cherry pepper vinaigrette, which gives the dish an unexpected heat. The Poached Pear Salad is another beauty, with garnishes of gougères (cheesy creampuffs), Marcona almonds, and poached cranberries.

Another great starter is Mombo’s signature charcuterie plate of Meats & Cheeses to Share; seasonally changing, it’s served with an arrangement of condiments that might include onion jam and apple jam, plus grilled bread. You can also opt for a cheese only plate.

Soups are impressive. Cadieux mentions one customer who comes in regularly just for a bowl of soup. One slurp, and you can see why. We tried a nightly special of Taro Root Soup with kale-pistachio pesto, and sopped up every last drop with slices of housemade bread. Or there’s the Lobster Bisque, served classically creamy and rich, with large chunks of fresh Maine lobster, and finished with a splash of cognac.

There are several items on the menu that have ingredients found in many eateries, but are prepared with enough of a twist to establish a new culinary experience. The preparations vary depending on the season. The Seared Rare Tuna consists of thin slices of barely seared tuna, served on a bed of crisp-fried snow peas and drizzled with both wasabi and blood orange sauces, with hash of bok choy and red rice on the side. The Kobe Cap Steak is three beef medallions with an herb butter that melts into the meat; the juicy steak, rosy red at its center, pulls apart with a dull knife. Another palate-pleasing main course is the vegetarian Truffle Risotto; we enjoyed it layered with rings of roasted butternut squash.

Of course, every meal can be accented by libations. Signature cocktails include a Nor’easter, eggnog spiked with maple vodka. Mombo’s staff is adept at pairing wine with your meal, and the extensive wine list includes tasting notes. There’s also a selection of limited-production craft beers.

Desserts are not to be missed here. Pastry Chef Jennifer Woods creates some of the best desserts we’ve tried, again, not the usual. The Cappuccino Cheesecake Mousse is ethereal – light, creamy, generous (this one can be shared), served in an oversized coffee cup and garnished with a lightly whipped cream and a sprinkle of cinnamon, with chocolate biscotti on the side (for dunking!). The Chocolate Mombo changes. On a recent visit it included a truffle-like flourless cake, chocolate mousse, and a scoop of Meyer lemon ice cream.

For all courses, fresh and local ingredients dominate, and Mombo is striving to bring more and more of each into its constantly evolving menu.

Guests can sit at the piano bar, in the loft, or near the open kitchen, where they can witness the sizzle and buzz of Mombo’s chefs honing their culinary creations.

Mombo Restaurant
66 Marcy Street 
Portsmouth, N.H. 
603-433-2340
www.momborestaurant.com

Cappuccino Cheesecake Mousse
Adapted from Jennifer Woods of Mombo.
Makes 12 servings

Cheesecake
1 1/2 pounds cream cheese
1 cup sugar
4 eggs
1 1/2 tablespoons Kahlúa
3 tablespoons brewed espresso
1/8 teaspoon salt

Garnishes
whipped cream
ground cinnamon
chocolate biscotti
chocolate-covered espresso beans

1. Preheat oven to 275°F. Spray a 10-inch cake pan with vegetable cooking spray. If using a springform pan, line the outside with foil. The cheesecake will bake in a water bath, and covering a springform pan with foil will keep the water from leaking into the cake. Have ready a larger pan that will hold the cake pan.

2. In a large bowl, use an electric mixer on medium-high to beat the cream cheese and sugar until light and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add Kahlúa and espresso and mix well.

3. Pour batter into prepared pan. Place in the larger pan and pour hot water into the larger pan so that it reaches about halfway up the sides of the cheesecake pan. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes until almost set, with a slight jiggling in the center. Let cool on a wire rack to room temperature, then refrigerate until fully chilled, at least 4 hours and preferably overnight.

4. Scoop the chilled cheesecake into a large bowl. Use an electric mixer on medium speed to blend until light and smooth.

5. To serve, spoon the whipped cheesecake into coffee cups. Top with whipped cream and a sprinkling of ground cinnamon. Place on saucers, with biscotti and chocolate espresso beans on the side.