 At C.R. Sparks, in Bedford, New Hampshire, the emphasis is on wood-fired cookery. The restaurant boasts a rotisserie, a grill, and a pizza oven, all fired by a variety of hardwoods. Director of Operations Peter Lowre says using the wood-fired technique infuses each dish with "a light, almost translucent smoky flavor. You wouldn't necessarily notice it if you weren't looking for it, but it just brings out a rich, almost buttery flavor."
Lowre points to the talents of Executive Chef Stewart Cameron, who has created a definite crowd pleaser with his Cedar Plank Roasted Scallops with Root Vegetable Risotto. The heat from the seven-hundred-degree oven gives the scallops a nice sear, Lowre says, and the cedar plank infuses them with a subtle smoky flavor. Cameron finishes the dish with an apple sage beurre blanc. The Grilled Hanger Steak with Creamed Spinach, Potato Gratin, and Crisp Onion Rings is marinated for twenty-four hours in a balsamic marinade before it hits the wood-fired grill. "It took a while for people to catch on to this particular cut," says Lowre, who added it to the menu in 1994 when he was the executive chef, "but now it's by far the number-one best-selling steak we've ever run." Sous Chef Chris Williams brews a homemade Worcestershire sauce to serve with the restaurant's steaks. Mustard Glazed Brick Oven Salmon with Roasted Sweet Potatoes is a menu staple, as is the Wood Roasted Pork Tenderloin with White Cheddar Mash, Red Swiss Chard, Drunken Raisins, and Roasted Walnut Butter. The tenderloin, Lowre says, was originally prepared with Cajun elements and is a good example of how a chef can adapt to customer demand without sacrificing creativity. "You can't take it off [the menu], so what we do is challenge ourselves to change the presentation so that it's not too far fetched and is still accessible to everyone." Customers demand that some form of Wood Rotisserie Chicken stays on the menu, and the current favorite is prepared with a lemon and rosemary rub and served alongside Red Bliss Smashed Potatoes, Braised Escarole, and Chicken Gravy. Although many of the house favorites come from the "Wood Fired" section of the menu, the Sesame Crusted Pan-Seared Tuna with Braised Bok Choy and Wasabi Mashed Potatoes is hugely popular, too. With an extensive menu that features an array of enticing appetizers, wood-fired pizzas, and more, it's not hard for anyone to find a favorite. Signature Dishes Winter 2007-08
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