Petit Robert Bistro

Of course, home-style by French definition is a little different than what Americans might whip up in their own kitchens. Executive Chef and Co-Owner Jacky Robert, of the famed Maison Robert family, lists his Trio of Homemade Pâtés with condiments as one of his signature dishes, and although it might not be what Mom used to make, it is sure to bring satisfaction. The three pâtés do not change nor do the traditional accompaniments of cornichons, grain mustard, and baguette. For the Pork Rilette, Jacky slowly braises pork with onions and spices until it is falling apart, then purees it into a pâté, and lets it set to a soft, spreadable consistency. “Rilette was traditionally made with all the small bits of meat after the butchering,” says Jacky, so that nothing was wasted. The country-style pâté is comprised of diced pork shoulder and pork fat suspended in a smooth base and baked into a terrine mold, and the chicken liver pâté is simply made by emulsifying whole butter into whipped raw chicken liver. The mixture is lightly seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and brandy, poured into individual ramekins, and gently baked in a water-bathlike custard.

Jacky keeps the Soupe a l’Onion Gratinée in its classic form, cooking a thick layer of onions over moderate heat for a full two hours to bring out the natural sugars. He adds a touch of flour for body and a bit of white wine for acidity to balance out the sweetness of the onion, and he finishes with rich, homemade beef stock. The only modern concession is in the gratinée. “It’s a little different because I use half Gruyere and half American Muenster.” The Muenster, says Jacky, fortifies the nutty flavor and classic stringy consistency of the Gruyere with a bit of creaminess and with beautiful caramelization under the broiler.

Some form of Pan-Seared Foie Gras is always on the appetizer menu, currently with rhubarb beignets and honey-Dijon sauce. No true bistro menu would be complete without Beef Bourguignon, which Jacky serves with roasted potatoes. Steak frites are another mandatory bistro item. Skirt steak is the classic steak to use for this dish, served with hand-cut fries and a choice of three classic sauces—bordelaise, poivre, or bearnaise. Roast Half Chicken with Natural Jus is one of Jacky’s personal favorites, and he follows a strict method when preparing it. “You roast it at 500 degrees for exactly 45 minutes. American people cook chicken too much because they don’t always know when to stop the cooking process.” Jacky says the meat must be pulled from the oven when it is perfectly medium and it will continue to just cook through but remain succulent and juicy.

For the dessert menu, Jacky allows Pastry Chef Kristen Lawson to get a little creative but requires there be few unadulterated bistro desserts in the mix. Kristen can be found behind the dessert bar composing desserts to order, somewhat like a sushi chef, for guests who are seated in front of her giving their order directly. Classic desserts include Tart Tatin, Profiteroles, and Grand Marnier Soufflé, but the true signature dessert is the Gateau Petit Robert. The decadent masterpiece consists of chocolate genoise cake soaked with Grand Marnier syrup, coated with fudgelike dark chocolate ganache and topped with shaved white chocolate. The final flourish on the dessert is the miniature chocolate Eiffel Tower, handmade by Kristen that stands alongside the gateau.

Petit Robert has a signature cocktail, too. The Dirty French Chef, so named partly in tribute to Jacky’s bawdy humor in the kitchen, contains freshly made rhubarb juice, Mount Gay rum, and sugar.

Signature Dishes Summer 2007