Harvest in Cambridge, MA, Black Point Inn in Scarborough, ME, Hurricane in Kennebunk, ME and Rudi's in Portsmouth, NH

A signature dish in its true sense is a dish that, both in its creation and execution, is uniquely associated with a particular chef or restaurant. It’s a dish that has been on the menu for years. It’s a dish that customers demand.

The truth is, though, fewer and fewer chefs have signature dishes these days. As the American palate grows more sophisticated and adventurous, and as more and more chefs embrace the challenge of weekly, or even daily, menu changes, it becomes less likely that any one item will earn a permanent place on the roster. A chef might, however, become so enamored of a particular ingredient or cooking technique that it becomes something of a calling card.

Mary Dumont, now executive chef of Harvest, (formerly of The Dunaway, in Portsmouth, New Hampshire) in Cambridge, Massachusetts, admits that any herb that falls into the lemony flavor spectrum is likely to find its way into at least a couple of dishes on her menu, especially when summer is on the way. “My crew teases me because I love lemon so much”, says Dumont, who uses lemon verbena in the lemon-chamomile beurre blanc that accompanies Alaskan Halibut with Braised Breakfast Radish, Asparagus, Spring Garlic and Mint. She often uses lemongrass to infuse subtle flavor into sauces and soups, like the lemongrass consommé that accompanied a recent duck breast.

Duck in almost any form is another favorite, and although no one duck presentation has become a Dumont signature, she says, “I always, always have duck on the menu.” Dumont is a fan of “à la Ficelle” [the technique of suspending meat with twine, either over an open flame, which renders away fat and can impart a subtle smoky flavor, or in a poaching liquid, which yields incredibly flavorful, fork tender results]. Dumont poaches duck breast using this technique for her Duck Breast à la Ficelle with Parsnip Puree, Parsnip Batons, Braised Swiss Chard, and Black Peppercorn Consommé.

Dumont’s Beet Salad with Watercress, Frisée, Compte Cheese, and Hazelnuts is a longtime customer favorite she brought with her when she took over Harvest in September of 2007. From the dedicated regulars who have been coming to Harvest since it first opened in 1975, Dumont inherited a demand for the famed Harvest Burger. She puts her own stamp on the burger by showcasing it in a housemade brioche bun with seasonal sides, and by sourcing all-natural beef from Boyden Farm, in Cambridge, Vermont.

At Black Point Inn, in Scarborough, Maine, Chef Trap Landry says that although his menu changes frequently, there are certainly favorites that he will keep on the menu but with seasonal tweaks. One popular main course is Sausage and Rice Stuffed Quail with Semolina Gnocchi. The housemade sausage and hand-rolled gnocchi provide the foundation, but in winter Landry will serve it with a rich demi-glace while in summer he’ll keep the sauce as more of a broth with perhaps a bit of citrus or some light herbs swirled in.

Landry loves to take advantage of fresh Maine seafood, and Seared Cod with Lobster Agnolotti is sure to show up for a few weeks every summer. The cod is simply seasoned with salt and pepper and seared in an ultrahot pan, which Landry says “really crisps it” and heightens the flavor. For the agnolotti, Landry embellishes freshly shucked lobster meat with mascarpone, white wine, and herbs, then minces it to almost a paste to create a delicate filling for the little pastas.

For his Crab and Avocado Timbale, Landry starts with fresh crabmeat, “kissed with homemade mayonnaise,” which he layers with perfectly ripe avocado and dresses with tobiko, or flying fish roe, ground sesame seeds, and a touch of sherry vinegar. “It’s my version of a seafood cocktail,” says Landry, but with crunchiness from the tiny grains of roe.

Landry usually keeps some form of duck confit on the menu and has found a way to keep it relatively light for summer in the form of a Duck Confit Rosti with Crème Fraîche and Chives. “It’s like a little crispy hash brown,” says Landry, and the tanginess of the crème fraîche and brightness of the chives provide the perfect summery counterpoint for the richness of the rendered duck leg. 
 Ripe Maine berries are a summer must-have for Landry who likes to showcase them in a simple preparation that allows the natural flavors of the berries to shine through. Prosecco Sabayon over Fresh Summer Berries with Lemon Cookies is a good example of a typical summer dessert, says Landry.

At Hurricane, in Kennebunkport, Maine, chef Jason Leighton says some of the dishes have been on the menu since long before he came on board eight years ago, but he puts his own stamp on things whenever possible. He knows better than to try to take the Five Onion Soup off the menu, but he serves it with a puff pastry and gruyère crust rather than the typical crouton.

You might think a classically trained chef would balk at the idea of serving Baked Stuffed Lobster, but Leighton, a graduate of the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vermont, sees it as a Maine classic. He sources Maine shrimp and crabmeat for the stuffing and perches three seared sea scallops on top. Made with the time-honored recipe of whole butter and Ritz cracker crumbs, Leighton says, “It’s the best thing around.”

Filet Mignon with Garlic Mashed Potatoes receives seasonal makeovers like candied locally grown beets in the summer, and for a sauce Leighton says you can’t do better than a traditional demi-glace fortified with molten Maytag Blue.

One recent addition to the menu is Leighton’s Frisée and Pepper Salad with Applewood-Smoked Bacon and a Poached Egg.  It’s already attracting a loyal following and Leighton will likely keep it on the menu into the summer due to customer demand.

Sean Vancelette and John Hobbs serve as co-chefs at Rudi’s, in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, and each has contributed a few customer favorites to the menu. Vancelette oversees the dinner menu, and his Pan-Roasted Atlantic Salmon with Pepper Relish and an Asiago-Chive Potato Cake won’t leave the menu for the summer. Vancelette looks forward to the summer months, when the peppers for the relish and the chives for the potato cake will come from nearby farms. 

Hobbs, who oversees the lunch menu, created a Muffaletta Panini for the lunch menu as a tribute to New Orleans. “Customers love it,” says Vancelette. Chewy ciabatta bread is stacked high with prosciutto, mortadella, salami, and gruyère, and slathered with Hobbs’ spicy olive salad.

Some menu items precede the arrival of both chefs, such as the Gotham Cobb Salad that was created by co-owner Brooks Gassner, who opened the restaurant in 2006 with partner Keith Prince. It’s a signature dish, but one allegedly created in the thirties by restaurateur Bob Cobb of the Brown Derby Restaurant in Hollywood, California. Many restaurants offer their own version of the famous salad, and the Rudi’s version includes grilled chicken, ham, gruyère, tomatoes, bacon, egg, and Thousand Island dressing.

Pan-Seared Sea Scallops over Wilted Baby Spinach with a Bacon and Maple Gastrique has also been on the menu since day one, as has the Chocolate Bundt Cake frosted with a decadent ganache. Vancelette says he doesn’t mind keeping popular items on the menu. Whether they can be considered true signature dishes or not, they can certainly be considered a hit with customers. And keeping customers happy, after all, is indeed the ultimate goal.

A Johnson and Wales graduate, Paula Sullivan trained with Jasper White in Boston and was sous-chef at Lindbergh’s Crossing in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. Her work has appeared in the Culinary Institute of America’s Kitchen and Cook, The Wire, and the Portsmouth Herald.